Not to steal your thunder - BUT.
I think you're paying too much. I got these MAHVELOUS Vizor bullet driving lights from jpcycles for $90. For the pair.
Just installed these, so haven't tucked and wire-tied the wires yet. They will be cleaned up when I finish other more important mods.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/306-711
Those are Kuryakyn 1" clamps.
The Vizor Bullets are wired via a relay & 3-pos sw, to select on-with-ignition/off/on-with-hi-beam. Trigger is either from the blu/wh wire (input to hi-lo sw, powered with ignition & not starting) or the blu wire (hi beam) so they go off when the starter is on.
Speaking of driving lights, I just installed these Drag Specialties H4 headlights as spots on Jade. $120 for the pair. When the link breaks, they are P/N 2001-0279.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381218014072?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Yep that's the Cyclops 3800 lumen H4 "bulb". I have these wired same as the Magna on the circuit I posted the other day (and below) - 3-pos switch that selects hi/low/follow-the-headlight-sw. Or off, and parking lights on (in this pic). Between the "spots" and the headlight which is also a 3800 Cyclops, I have 12400 lumens - more than TEN TIMES the light of the stock headlight. At a cost of 120 watts as compared to 60.
The disadvantage to these circuits all being triggered off the OEM headlight circuit - if you have a short anywhere that blows the fuse, you will have NO headlights. The circuits aren't independent. Hasn't happened to me in 18 years, but I suppose it could. It's a trade-off - you NEED the headlight off to crank if you have a weak battery, and that has happened to me many times. I have never had a short that blew the headlight circuit. I have had bulbs go out, and was glad I had enough light to continue for the evening, without stopping to fix it.
BTW for the Cyclops it's a good idea to have a deep spot housing for the fan, circuit board, wire plug, and to allow room to focus the bulb. I had to adjust it's depth (recess it) to get the focus. Started out with two beams in a "V" pattern on each fixture. Also I read somewhere, (probably on advrider, they have lots of reviews and tech support over there) from the Cyclops tech, that running the fan in an enclosed housing is OK, it doesn't overheat. Gotta guess the airflow over the housing keeps the temp down.
Another angle:
I already did the relay mod for the headlight, to reduce the load on the starter & Hi-Lo switches. Not really necessary I suppose, since I also installed a Cyclops 3800 in the headlight, which is 40/20 watts, already reducing the load on the switches. Best place for those relays is in the bucket, so they aren't on the relay board.
BTW if anybody cares for the rat's nest under the seat on Deerslayer - the result of adding mods one at a time - Jade gets a neater plan. This time I'm setting up the infrastructure first, then filling it in. Here's the relays board, and the fuse panel (so far):
Here's the circuit the Cyclops 4 relays are implementing:
