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Author Topic: Electrical Quandry  (Read 595 times)
jimmytee
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Elizabethtown,KY


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« on: April 06, 2014, 07:44:12 AM »

I bought one of these http://fuzeblocks.com/ to help tidy up the accessory wiring. My dilemma is deciding how to incorporate this into my existing wiring scheme. I had originally wired in the three switch Kuryakyn piece that mounts to the top of either the brake or clutch reservoirs. Each of the switched legs has its own inline fuse. One switch powers a relay for my lightbar .another powers a relay for the audio in the Woody and the third powers the LED power/control module directly, no relay.
The Fuzeblock only has one relay to be triggered ny the accessory wire or one of the switch legs. Unless I want to forego the three switch or power the light bar directly from one of the switches( rated for 10 amps / calculated load of light bar is between 8 and 9 amps) I will need to keep one of those relays  and then there are those pesky inline fuses I'd still have. Basically, I've come to realize, that unless I get rid of the Kury switch and power everything on with the Fuzeblock relay, I'm not really reducing much wiring clutter. Roll Eyes Any ideas?
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

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« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2014, 08:10:18 AM »

Keep in mind, you're still going to need a switch for both the lightbar and the audio. You should be able to keep those where they are, just get rid of the inline fuses and let the Fuzeblock take their place and do its job by running the power off it for those items....and whatever else you desire. Where do you have the inline fuses now located? If near the battery then it should be easy to simply remove them and run that same wire directly to the new Fuzeblock which will already be fused for each individual circuit. That way, when you turn off the key everything is shut off.

You might provide a little more info as to where and how you have those present circuits hooked up.
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jimmytee
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Elizabethtown,KY


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« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2014, 08:23:16 AM »

Keep in mind, you're still going to need a switch for both the lightbar and the audio. You should be able to keep those where they are, just get rid of the inline fuses and let the Fuzeblock take their place and do its job by running the power off it for those items....and whatever else you desire. Where do you have the inline fuses now located? If near the battery then it should be easy to simply remove them and run that same wire directly to the new Fuzeblock which will already be fused for each individual circuit. That way, when you turn off the key everything is shut off.

You might provide a little more info as to where and how you have those present circuits hooked up.
That's just it. The Fuzeblock has one source for the power, which is intended to be from the battery. From there you can decide whether each circuit is always hot or switched by the on board relay by where you position each fuse on the board for their respective circuits. So I don't have to have any switches if I want. The on board relay,triggered by the aux wire would accomplish this. The inline fuses of the Kury switch are near the battery, but they are intended to be on each of three legs of the three switches.Both to protect the circuit wiring and switch. There is no way to run those circuits independently through the Fuzeblock. The Fuzeblock takes one supply wire and divides that through the board into the separate circuits. So if my goal is to clean up and simplify the wiring, it looks like I'd have to lose the Kury switch and lose the functionality of turning those circuits on and off independently. I'm just not sure that's what I want to do and the other alternative is to still have more wiring clutter. ugh. I'm just being indecisive.  uglystupid2
« Last Edit: April 06, 2014, 08:24:55 AM by jimmytee » Logged

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BobB
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« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2014, 08:35:27 AM »

That is a very cool fuse box. When I installed my Eastern Beaver last year, I ripped out all prior custom wiring and redid everything that I required. A switched circuit for the light bar and air horn, another for the audio stuff and a constant circuit for one of the outlets and LED accent lights.  This year I added a brake reservoir switch block to switch a Dear Hornet, spot light relay and a head light relay. But all this is powered from the OEM headlight circuit.

Your reservoir switch block has only one input unless you modify it and add more wires.  It sounds like you know what you are doing but careful planning is required.
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