My front suspension was not to my satisfaction so something needed to be done. The seals were not leaking so seal replacement was not essential. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I ordered all possible replacement parts if needed now or in the future. The majority rule here on the Valkyrie forum is 10 weight fluid for the forks. Then there is the suggestion of a little less fluid so the forks have more air breathing room. I used both methods.
I ordered the Progressive springs and they are about 0.75” shorter. Then, the initial travel distance on those springs takes very little pressure. It was obvious the bike would be 1” lower in the front. That is not acceptable for me. A spring 0.75” shorter is not progressive in my opinion. My original springs passed inspection so I put them back in and returned the Progressive springs. I can see where the Progressive springs would be OK for some people.
Draining the oil in the right shock revealed 2 ounces too much. I then put in 0.75 ounces less than what the manual calls for. I did likewise with the left fork. The results are better. The Valkyrie does not have the suspension of a lighter weight off-road bike but it is better than before. I did not want to rely on fluid level. Fluid quantity seems more precise.
Both Fork spring length specs = 13.3”
Right fork fluid specification is 22.7 US oz for GL1500C/CT. I subtracted 0.75oz.
Left fork fluid specification is 25.2oz. I subtracted 0.75oz.
I am riding at 489 feet elevation and outside temperature of 85 degrees.
I weigh 220 pounds and am 6’5” tall.
The tires used on the bike will most likely have an effect on ride comfort. Formerly I used Dunlop soft rubber tires. The existing tires are Dunlop Elite 3. They seem hard and tough. My rougher ride seemed to get worse when those tires were installed. The fork fluid change still makes a small difference in the right direction. When pressing the front brakes, the bike dips a little more than before. I have a more comfortable ride but a little less stability. I did a fairly tight turn at 80mph on the highway and the bike handles very well.
The right fork spring was removed. Since it passed inspection I did not remove the left fork spring. The left fork inner fork bolt takes a lock nut wrench 44mm, part number 07VMA-MZ0010A for removal. I would not remove that lock nut without the tool. It requires 72 foot pound of torque and there is no way I would put that much pressure on my shocks with a non-symmetrical force. If I develop an oil seal leak, I will order the tool on eBay. The amount of force to compress the forks to install the bolt is not for a fragile person. I used a long clamp tool with soft feet to compress the right fork for retaining washer insertion. At 75 years of age I do not have the strength of you young bucks out there.
Draining and filling was done with the springs installed. Enough pumping and the old oil will come out. I put all the new fork oil in the outer casing area. Then I was very careful to pump the fork as best I could. Then upon riding down the road I stayed on smooth roads and drove slowly to balance the fluid in the inner and outer chambers. With unequal levels I was afraid I might blow a seal on a big bump. After 10 or 20 miles I feel the bike is ready for rough riding.
I also rebuilt all carbs, the hydraulic clutch and all brake calipers. The bike is better than new.
I just finished a 55 mile ride on Texas hill country roads. I am happy with the old springs and the fluid modification. Thanks to this forum and its members for the much-needed advice.
JerryCS
