possessed furnace

[cookiedough]

I have a 21 year old comfortmaker 80% natural gas furnace acting up not allowing any gas to go thru the burners.  Had tech come out and he thinks all is well except the gas valve is going along with a slight issue with original OEM rusted burner tubes.  The rusted/pitted burner tubes are not the main issue though since in the morning when it is not running for 5-8 hours (I set temp down to 64 at night), the first ignite of red hot ignitor coil when clicks NO gas comes out of first burner.  I have to go down and put a cigarette lighter IN FRONT OF the first burner tube 2-5 times to get gas to poof out and usually stays lit.

Any HVAC techs out there?  Tech on gas valve increased the gas pressure on gas valve to help it out some but still doesn't allow gas to come out at times like early in the morning after sitting not running during night.  Everything else he said checked out, but not 100% sure on that?

I guess I should try using a good used gas valve or buy a new one at 100 bucks or so to see if gas will come out of the supply line to first burner?  Anyone have issues with their gas supply valve acting up like this?  I would think once a gas valve goes bad, you'd think it would go bad ALL the time unlike what mine is doing. 

After I put lighter in front of gas burner first time (sometimes takes 3-10 attempts like this), the 2nd and 3rd and 4th times it has re-ignited all by itself just fine - weird?? 

I'd rather spend 200 bucks on new gas valve, etc. to hopefully make my 21 year old furnace last another 5 years or so vs. spending 2 grand or more on a new 95% efficiency furnace whether Carrier/Bryant, Amana/Goodman, or Trane or Rheem/Ruud.    2 of the 3 guys I called did not recommend Trane as a new furnace since they keep every 3-5 years re-doing their entire parts and after a few more years, do not supply parts to their older furnaces.  The guy selling Amana 95% efficiency said they are all the same nowadays made in China B.S. and parts won't last near as long as they did 20+ years ago which I would agree, but all mfgs. have a 10 year parts warranty but only 1 year labor warranty.  That guy selling Amana (owned by Goodman) as well was the cheapest by a few hundred bucks for a new furnace.  Any recommendations,  much appreciated!

[DarkSideR]

There is a sensor in the supply air plenum that reads if Carbon Monoxide is entering the air stream. If Carbon Monoxide is in the air stream it is feeding Carbon Monoxide into the house, and thus will poison you. If the sensor detects Carbon Monoxide it will shut the furnace down.

Taking into account this is a 20yr old furnace with rust. My bet this is indeed the case.

Solution - New Furnace.

FYI - an inexperience tech will often overlook this.

[Patrick]

There is a sensor in the supply air plenum that reads if Carbon Dioxide is entering the air stream. If Carbon Dioxide is in the air stream it is feeding Carbon Dioxide into the house, and thus will poison you. If the sensor detects Carbon Dioxide it will shut the furnace down.

Taking into account this is a 20yr old furnace with rust. My bet this is indeed the case.

Solution - New Furnace.

FYI - an inexperience tech will often overlook this.

Carbon dioxide ?  I'm thinking more along the lines of one oxygen atom rather than two.

[Patrick]

I have a 21 year old comfortmaker 80% natural gas furnace acting up not allowing any gas to go thru the burners.  Had tech come out and he thinks all is well except the gas valve is going along with a slight issue with original OEM rusted burner tubes.  The rusted/pitted burner tubes are not the main issue though since in the morning when it is not running for 5-8 hours (I set temp down to 64 at night), the first ignite of red hot ignitor coil when clicks NO gas comes out of first burner.  I have to go down and put a cigarette lighter IN FRONT OF the first burner tube 2-5 times to get gas to poof out and usually stays lit.

Any HVAC techs out there?  Tech on gas valve increased the gas pressure on gas valve to help it out some but still doesn't allow gas to come out at times like early in the morning after sitting not running during night.  Everything else he said checked out, but not 100% sure on that?

I guess I should try using a good used gas valve or buy a new one at 100 bucks or so to see if gas will come out of the supply line to first burner?  Anyone have issues with their gas supply valve acting up like this?  I would think once a gas valve goes bad, you'd think it would go bad ALL the time unlike what mine is doing. 

After I put lighter in front of gas burner first time (sometimes takes 3-10 attempts like this), the 2nd and 3rd and 4th times it has re-ignited all by itself just fine - weird?? 

I'd rather spend 200 bucks on new gas valve, etc. to hopefully make my 21 year old furnace last another 5 years or so vs. spending 2 grand or more on a new 95% efficiency furnace whether Carrier/Bryant, Amana/Goodman, or Trane or Rheem/Ruud.    2 of the 3 guys I called did not recommend Trane as a new furnace since they keep every 3-5 years re-doing their entire parts and after a few more years, do not supply parts to their older furnaces.  The guy selling Amana 95% efficiency said they are all the same nowadays made in China B.S. and parts won't last near as long as they did 20+ years ago which I would agree, but all mfgs. have a 10 year parts warranty but only 1 year labor warranty.  That guy selling Amana (owned by Goodman) as well was the cheapest by a few hundred bucks for a new furnace.  Any recommendations,  much appreciated!

Is there a pressure differential switch in the fire box ?  If there is check the hoses/lines and give the whole thing a good cleaning. Have you removed the gas valve and cleaned the lines ?  It seems like either of those issues to me. The techs had no idea ?

[Earl43P]

My third row burner ignites late some of the time (Whooooomf!).
Makes the dogs bark at it.

I've found that a yearly cleaning helps.

On mine, the igniter is a ceramic-like element, glowing red like a stove burner on high.

The ignition gas (propane for mine) flows past the igniter in an upside-down metal U-channel to the end of each burner row. That channel actually provides a small amount of ignited gas flow from the igniter element. Once the Main gas valve opens, the burners ignite.

I've found that cleaning that U-channel with several sizes of bronze rifle-cleaning bore brushes will allow the freer flow of ignited gas to each burner and eliminates the WHoooompf for the better part of the season.  (in other words, light corrosion inside this U-channel actually blocks the flow of flame/gas to the furthest burner. The channel is only about 1/2" wide)

It took very close examination of the sequence of operation with the panel removed for me to see this happen. In the dark, flashlight OFF was the only way I was able to see it.  The Whoooompf about took my eyebrows off.

My propane tech guy is a good friend.  He swore I needed a new igniter element until I described what I just typed. Then he said, keep that channel clean....

My furnace is a 1986 model!

[Kep]

30yrs HVACR technician , run my own  heating cooling business. I ran into a Trane (very similar to Comfortmaker) unit a while back that had this same issue...long story short after cleaning burners ,swapping out gas valve ,adjusting gas pressure.... I checked the burners very closely and discovered that the baffles in the inlet were still very corroded and un-able  the be accesed to be properly cleaned. I ordered new burners and received Stainless Steel replacement burners (old ones were stamped galvanized steel) which led me to beleive that they had issues with this occuring and switched to Stainless Steel..Fired like a brand new furnace after that.Sometimes (especially with LP gas) what appears to the naked eye to be "clean" is not necessarily so.Post the M/N and S/N of your furnace and I will check and see if I can get you a good deal on some replacement burners , if you choose to go that route.As far as replacement equipment (when it comes time for that) I've been a Bryant guy for 30 years , they are made right here in Indiana (Avon , near Indianapolis) I actually sell Payne...which is the same as Bryant and Carrier (all made right there in the same factory ) They are the original pioneers in the High efficiency furnace world and everyone else copied what they developed. Great company and great , reliable product.

[KG]

Since the gas valve clicks and it will light then all the safeties are satisfied all is good and will allow the gas valve to open.

pull the burners and check the orifices in the manifold bar. they are small holes  and small spiders and insects can get in them and build a nest and stop them up or if there has been a gas main breakage in the area it will allow moisture in the gas lines which causes corrosion.

also need to check the crossover bars on the burners to make sure they are not stopped up they are what allow the ignitor/pilot light to light the burners and allow the flame to jump from burner to burner.

[cookiedough]

Kep,  it is a comfortmaker RPJII 80% model#:  GNI060A012BIN ,  serial# L924096035

I took off the 3 burners and cleaned the rusted spots out as best as I could but could do the inside longer part with a wire gun metal brush of some sort haven't done that yet, probably should couldn't hurt.

I could be wrong, but thinking it is not the burners as much as a gas valve since I can usually light the gas IN FRONT of the burners but sometimes NOT it takes 3-10 times to get it to shoot gas off thru the first burner.  I guess if the burners are pitted and rusted inside which I know they are,  maybe the gas is not free-flowing thru the burners thus no gas flames?????????  I have cleaned with pipe cleaner and wire brush and even a flat screwdriver the carbon buildup as best as I could but really wasn't much there to be honest.   

Kep, if you can find some good used or even new (doubt it I have looked around)  3 burners that are separate and held on together in a row by 4 screws that would be awesome - much appreciated, but I have tried locally and no one even ebay or website search engine can find any since is over 20 years old.

The gas valve is a white rodgers 36E97 201    (with numbers below 1585-987).  I can get those used off ebay for 50 bucks and new within 100 miles from my house for 100 bucks. 

I'm willing to shell out 150-200 bucks if those 2 things work and keep the furnace running for 3-5 more years hopefully. 

As far as carbon monoxide,  I have one usptairs just bought new and one in the basement that works about 10 feet away from the furnace on the ceiling so should be safe in that respect.

New burners would be nice to outrule that issue since am sure is cheaper than 80 bucks for the 3 if I can find them anywhere?

I'm hoping all it is is a gas valve being stubborn not allowing gas to go thru it all the time, but just a guess.  I think I can change the gas valve myself without shelling out 70 bucks in labor for a tech to come out for 1 hour or less and do it for me. 

I was going to change gas valve to a borrowed used one very similar and same size, etc.  this afternoon but it was SO NICE out I decided to take the Valk for it's official 2-3 hour first spin of the year -  I have my priorities ya know - there, it is now Valk related! 

Wife wasn't too happy but thank god winter is almost over and only need heat for another 2-3 weeks or so and NOT brutal cold anymore.  I should've stayed home and changed gas valve today though since only going to be another 2-3 weeks of furnace use to get if figured out BEFORE next fall when I really need it to be running all the time.  I have to for sure change gas valve this weekend since Monday and Tuesday back into the 20's with highs of only 42 or so - BRRR!  I procrastinate way too much!

[cookiedough]

My third row burner ignites late some of the time (Whooooomf!).
Makes the dogs bark at it.

I've found that a yearly cleaning helps.

On mine, the igniter is a ceramic-like element, glowing red like a stove burner on high.

The ignition gas (propane for mine) flows past the igniter in an upside-down metal U-channel to the end of each burner row. That channel actually provides a small amount of ignited gas flow from the igniter element. Once the Main gas valve opens, the burners ignite.

I've found that cleaning that U-channel with several sizes of bronze rifle-cleaning bore brushes will allow the freer flow of ignited gas to each burner and eliminates the WHoooompf for the better part of the season.  (in other words, light corrosion inside this U-channel actually blocks the flow of flame/gas to the furthest burner. The channel is only about 1/2" wide)

It took very close examination of the sequence of operation with the panel removed for me to see this happen. In the dark, flashlight OFF was the only way I was able to see it.  The Whoooompf about took my eyebrows off.

My propane tech guy is a good friend.  He swore I needed a new igniter element until I described what I just typed. Then he said, keep that channel clean....

My furnace is a 1986 model!

Earl,  if the 1st and 2nd burners ignite and takes more time for the 3rd (or final burner) to ignite and flame up and getting a WOOP of gas all at once,  it is like you said needing a good cleaning of burners and more than likely for sure needing to clean the flame sensor, not igniter.  The igniter is doing it's job but the flame sensor (on mine a 3" skinny rod in front of 3rd (last burner) is very sensitive if not cleaned on my at least 2x's in the winter,  the flames shut off and won't ignite all 3 burners or runs for 1-5 seconds on all 3 burners and then gas goes out.  I unscrew that one screw holding the metal rod flame sensor in front of 3rd (last) burner and take fine sandpaper or emery cloth and shine it up and do not touch the metal rod with your hands since needs no oil and free of dust and soot to sense the flames and keep burners running. 

My issue is not ignitor or flame sensor since having trouble getting gas into the first burner to begin with.   

 

[Kep]

You didn't mention it , but I'm guessing you are on LP gas not Natural Gas. The inlet and firing pressure will have an effect on the burners lighting too..more with LP that Nat...LP inlet pressure should be 11" to 13" W.C. and firing pressure should be 10.5" to 11" W.C., inlet pressure is adjusted at the pressure regulator that is mounted to the outside of your house (not the one on the tank) , the firing pressure is adlusted at the gas valve . The inlet pressure has to be adjusted first. I have seen instances where the LP tank is refilled and it spikes the regulator and throws off the inlet pressure setting , or over time the spring in the regulator just loses it's tension.If you are on LP gas , when the burners do light , do they burn with much yellow at all , if so that says that you have a low gas pressure problem. If you are on Natural gas , inlet should be about 5"-8" W.C. and 3.5" W.C. at firing pressure.You will need a monometer to check these pressures.Since you siad you had a Tech. out ot look at it , I would hope he checked this "first", considering what your problem is.Wish I was closer , I would be more than happy to make a free visit over to look at it !

[cookiedough]

Kep, it is natural gas, not LP.  The tech never checked with that meter any gas pressure he just increased it on the gas valve by undo-ing the one round metal cover on top right side and screwed in a few turns downward that I saw. 

Like said, I paid 70 bucks and all he did for like 30 minutes is increase the gas pressure on the natural gas valve and checked 3 other parts that beeped meaning to him those 3 parts were working.  What he did worked for 2 days and NO go at times now with no gas coming thru the first burner.  It usually works but should fire up every time or nearly every time, very hit or miss.

[t-man403]

I've been doing this stuff for over thirty years so I'll try and give you a hand with this.

Your OP is unclear. You say there is no gas. Then you say if you put a lighter to the first burner, it will light up which means there is gas .......... it's just not lighting. If there is gas, there is nothing wrong with the gas valve but there could be a problem with the ignitor not getting hot enough to light the gas or it is not in the gas flow enough. Comfortmaker back then, had a definite problem with the cross over ribbon on each burner not being open enough to allow enough gas to contact the ignitor. If your burners have not been cleaned lets say ......... forever  , then I can see that being the problem.
You will need to take them out and clean them with compressed air and a small fine wire brush. Open the crossover with a flat screwdriver but not too wide as the baffle will fall out of the burner. If I remember correctly, the Comfortmakers ignitor is lined up in the middle of two burners therefore not getting a great deal of gas on the ignitor to begin with. 

I'll follow this thread to see how we do.

[cookiedough]

Gas usually comes out after a few tries with a cigarette lighter in say 2-10 attempts in front of the first burner where it shoots out first.  Once it was like 20 times with lighter though in front of first burner and was very frustrating meaning to me = NO gas out of gas valve.  That means to me anyways no gas coming out (at times) thru the gas valve down the tubing to first burner.  Thinking gas valve is not opening sometimes and should be ALL the time to allow gas to flow?

Yes, I have cleaned the OEM burners as best as I could but will also take apart once more and get all the way thru and try to break up some of the pitted rust throughout the entire first burner at least with a round wire brush similar to the gun cleaning metal brush I have.  

I also opened up with screwdriver just a tad the thin flutes (sides) on each side of the round burner like you said.   I also replaced the ignitor coil 2 weeks ago (first problem thought this would solve my issue) since that was shot since it would not get red hot (was shot after 5 years or so) and bent the new universal ignitor coil tab (connector held on top by screw) to get it closer to the first burner and more over about 1 cm to the round part of the burner vs. where it was at was too far to the right of the first burner.  Those universal ignitor coils brackets are just that = universal made for 100's of furnaces have to adjust and move/bend bracket to get them to work for each furnace.  It is just about in same place as the old universal ignitor that I replaced if not just a tad closer to the first burner which should be better.  

I guess I'll try replacing the gas valve with a new or used one this weekend and hope that works ALL the time.  It could be, which I hope not,  something electrical in the control panel unit itself (circuit board) and if so,  then it is for sure time for a new furnace after wasting a few hundred bucks trying to repair this one.

Oh yah, forgot to mention if furnace cycles thru (tries to ignite and doesn't keep running or doesn't run any gas thru at all) about 6 attempts to light and doesn't ignite or run, then it blows out cold air only which makes sense and then shuts furnace down entirely and I get a constant flashing red light in circuit board which means:  'flame sensed with no call for heat' according to the owners manual.

Like said, furnace is possessed.  It worked fine today ran like it should all by itself, but about 4 of the last 7 days or so (usually first time in the morning after not running at night since I turn down heat) no gas at all had to use cigarette lighter a few times is all and once it ignited once with lighter, the rest of the day it would ignite all on it's own just fine.

[t-man403]

Now what you need to do is take your multi-meter and see if you get 24V at the gas valve when you hear the control board click, after the ignitor has reached temperature. The board may not be sending power consistently.

Have you tried lighting the second or third burner with your lighter to see if gas is flowing to them. If they light, then I would remove the first burner orifice right out of the manifold as I have seen them plug up from crap in the gas line. I seen one plugged with pocket lint before.

If it comes down to buying a furnace, do not listen to the advice you have already received as it is inaccurate!! I don't think it will come down to that though.

[cookiedough]

thanks t-man.  I have checked with voltmeter on the 2 wires and everytime it clicks like it should ignite with red glowing ignitor coil, it goes from 0 and once clicked like it should run, reads 25.4 volts or right around 25 volts give or take .5.  So, yes it reads 24.5-25.5 volts for 2-3 seconds until the ignitor stops glowing red hot with no gas coming out the first burner and then the volts drop back down to 0 volts with no flames.  This is normal I assume.  Does the 24/25 volts for 2-3 seconds then dropping to zero volts on gas valve wire leads once ignitor fades from red hot with NO gas flames mean then the gas valve is working and opening as intended or is opening for 2-3 seconds and then shutting down no gas supply?  LIttle confused on that?

I guess cannot hurt using lighter on 2nd burner (middle one of the 3) and see if gas comes out of the 2nd burner easier/better but gas goes to first burner first and then 2nd and 3rd so would think would be the same since same one main gas line to all 3?  I could easily switch the 1st burner with the middle (2nd burner) since all 3 are universal I would imagine they look identical if you think that would ignite the flames on 1st burner better by itself - worth a shot or not?????  All 3 burners are rusted pretty good inside for 21 years and just wish I could find 3 new burners but so far unable to find any anywhere.

This morning woke up yet again the red light was flashing continous meaning flame sensed with no call for heat and burners had no gas going thru them and blowing cold air out is all.  So, flipped power switch to off and then back on the ignitor got red hot and clicked on and waala,  gas ignited just fine all on it's own and got heat again.  VERY odd and very intermittent seems like mornings for first time is when it happens the most with no gas to burners.

this weekend I am going to replace OEM gas valve with a supposed good working used gas valve same size and shape and see if that works 100% of the time for next week or so.  Other than that, I have no clue besides burners or gas valve (or a combo of both) or the circuit board is being fussy/starting to go?

Just went down and checked the voltmeter was 24.5 volts and since gas ignited fine on it's own and stayed lit and ran just now with gas coming out of burners running as it should the volts still reads all the time once blower motor kicked on 24.1 volts as normal.  ONLY when the gas does NOT go thru first burner at all with ignitor red hot it reads around 25 volts for 2-3 seconds once it clicks, no gas at all still, then ignitor coil dims down and volts drop back down to zero in 2-3 seconds as I think is normal since NO gas supply running.  That is correct agree?  So, by it reading 24-25 volts for 2-3 seconds only with no gas mean the gas supply valve is working just fine or just working for 2-3 seconds and not allowing gas to go thru the gas supply lines to burners?  Not an electrician or HVAC tech for sure.  Can gas valves be 80% working fine as usual and then the other 20% being fussy not allowing gas flow?

Either way,  I think I have to take the gas supply line from valve to burners off and see if it is blocked which I highly doubt it will be and run at least some pipe cleaners down there and see if any buildup or blockage in there, but 80% sure I bet not.  While I am doing that, might as well this weekend put the other used gas valve on to see if it makes a difference?

[Patrick]

Have you taken it apart and cleaned everything yet as suggested ?  The gas lines and burner tubes need to be really clean. I use small brushes and a lot of air.

[t-man403]

From what you are discribing the gas valve and board are doing as they are suppose to do. Gas not coming throught the "first burner" is what I am having trouble with as all the burners are on a manifold and all three will get gas at the same time. Wish I was there as I still think there is an alignment problem with the ignitor. Also I would like you to meter right at the transformer ans see what you have on the low voltage side. A 24V system will usually put out a little over 27V. I would like you to light the second burner next time the first won't light. If the second one lights the third will automatically and the first would stay off. If that happens then I would believe that the brass orifice in the manifold that the burner sits on would be plugged at least partially. 

Is this what your furnace looks like?



If this is it, there is an adjustable cup on the burner front (closest to you) that opens and closes to let air into the burner for a proper burn. Make sure it's not closed as you need air to help with the ignition of gas.

[cookiedough]

From what you are discribing the gas valve and board are doing as they are suppose to do. Gas not coming throught the "first burner" is what I am having trouble with as all the burners are on a manifold and all three will get gas at the same time. Wish I was there as I still think there is an alignment problem with the ignitor. Also I would like you to meter right at the transformer ans see what you have on the low voltage side. A 24V system will usually put out a little over 27V. I would like you to light the second burner next time the first won't light. If the second one lights the third will automatically and the first would stay off. If that happens then I would believe that the brass orifice in the manifold that the burner sits on would be plugged at least partially. 

Is this what your furnace looks like?



If this is it, there is an adjustable cup on the burner front (closest to you) that opens and closes to let air into the burner for a proper burn. Make sure it's not closed as you need air to help with the ignition of gas.

Yes, that is almost identical furnace same design and function.  Yes,  the round cup (circular tube) in front of each burner is open all the way on the first burner and partially open on the 2nd and 3rd burner to allow air in.  I also have when doing this the front top cover panel off (top of course since if bottom panel won't do anything since has a trip circuit switch on panel of bottom door where the circuit board is located that if bottom door is not on, furnace doesn't do anything).

I'm confused since not a tech on putting a reading for low voltage on the transformer?  All I did was on top of gas valve put the red/black wires of voltmeter on the 2 wire terminals and get a DC reading of around 24.4-25.5 volts.  Not sure what a transformer is to be honest or where it is located?

No, I have not taken the gas supply line from gas valve to burners off and cleaned or inspected but have taken off the 3 burners twice to clean but could've done a better, more thorough job actually inside the entire inside part with a small metal wire brush  of some kind like my .30-06 gun cleaning wire brush I guess?

Next time guessing this weekend I will light with lighter 2nd burner and see what happens and if ignites 2nd/3rd not first then you maybe onto someting of restriction on the first burner where gas comes into it??  I did take a soft pipe cleaner and shoved them up the small hole of the gas supply line in front of each burner about 1" and seemed clean and clear though on all 3 small holes, but haven't taken gas supply line off from gas valve to burners. 

I have adjusted that ignitor coil twice now since is universal and didn't ignite at all at first since it was too far away from first burner and a tad too far to the right of first burner.  I have it almost identical now to where the old one was that I also had to bend the mounting plate of the ignitor as well to be very close to the first burner and in the round hole opening a little of the first burner opening (bent mounting plate to the left was too far to the right of first burner round opening).  Tech said it shouldn't matter that much as long as the ignitor is really close to the first burner but doesn't have to be directly in front of the round opening of first burner can be to the right a little of first burner since still thin flutes to the right of the first burner round opening has gas going to it. 

All I know is the darn thing is VERY touchy and doesn't allow gas to first burner all the time. 

I agree, wish you were closer to get a feel of what it might be but it would probably be fine for 2 days and then 3rd day do this same crap all over again.  Like said, very possessed/touchy furnace.

thanks all for the suggestions/help, will see what happens this weekend since suppose to get cold again next week and Valk will have to sit Sunday thru Wednesday at least darn it!

[t-man403]

Close the cup on the first burner so to match the 2nd and 3rd. They have a set screw.

The transformer is by the control board and will look something like this.



You can see it has a low voltage (24V) side. Get a reading with your meter there. It' should be 27V or very close to it.

[Patrick]

I don't know about your furnace [ or probably much about any other] [ my limited experience is mostly with boilers] , but, the earlier Weil McLain boilers had troubles with the ' glow stick' style igniter and replaced them with the normal ' spark type'. I've replaced/ refitted a few including my own. I installed not too long ago and it had a spark igniter. I've forgotten the correct terminology.

[t-man403]

I don't know of any furnace manufactures that use a spark system theses days.

To the best of my knowledge, everything is hot surface. To change to a spark system, the control board and gas valve would have to be replaced as well. At that expense, your better off swapping out the furnace. Boilers are costly, so going to spark may be worth it.

[cookiedough]

Going to put on a used gas control valve in next day or so since was working for most part over the weekend and into Monday and now today have been having a heck of a time getting gas to 1st burner even with lighter in front of first burner.

thanks to mother nature this cold winter (and past 2 days) the poor thing has worn out still fricking below freezing out or will be tonight.  If supposed good used gas control valve doesn't work,  I'm stumped for the most part.

Just kicked on yet again all by itself after igniting with lighter just 20 minutes ago have heat again so jacked up to 70 degrees, but won't last more than 1 day am sure. 

Wish me luck,  gonna need it. 

I appreciate all the help and ideas though on this board - much appreciated!