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Author Topic: Turn signal malfunction. (SOLVED)  (Read 833 times)
Hoser
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Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« on: April 12, 2014, 10:08:58 AM »

When my turn signals quit working, I fixed them by dismantling the switch and cleaning up the contact,as I've done before, but strangely the right  rear signal now acts like the fronts by staying on like fronts as a running light. It works as a turn signal also.  If I could get the left one to do that, I would have rear running lights like the front.  I did nothing except clean up the contacts, did try a switch of the rear bulbs, the  bulb on the rear, as you know, the rear turns are single post bulbs.  I am confused, but man, I wish they both worked as running lights.  It comes on when the ignition is turned on, just like the head light, tail light and front turns.  ???     I'm a little confused.  Hoser

Solved by Ronw. over on the voai board.  Thanks, all for your help.  Hoser  cooldude
"Do you have a special bulb in the right front signal, wink. What you described is a symptom of using a 1156 single filament bulb in the front signal. The single contact on the bottom of the 1156 stem is wide enough that it spans the 2 contacts in the 1157 socket, the hi and the low contacts in the front socket. Since the 2 contacts in the 1157 socket are physically bridged, either the electricity to the hi-filament (contact) or electricity to the low filament (contact) will light up an 1156 bulb."

"When you're not signaling, the 1156 bulb in the front signal lights up because it receives electricity from the low filament contact (running light, constant ON) in the front's 1157 socket. This sends electricity to the bulb in the rear signal, corresponding side and you have a rear running light on that rear signal. The reason for this is that the hi-filaments in the front signal and rear signal are hard wired to each other, corresponding side. Again, the 1156 bulb's wider or oval contact is bridging the hi and low contacts back at the front 1157 socket. So whatever electricity that's on the low-filament contact, in the front signal socket, that electricity travels across the bridge to the hi-filament contact. From there the same electricity travels to the rear turn signal .... the front signal's and the rear signal's hi-filaments being hard-wired to each other. The obvious problem with this is that the front running light and the rear running light are lit up (Constant ON) on the 1156's hi-filament. (A 1156 bulb has only a single filament inside its glass envelop and that single filament is a hi-filament.) A hi-filament generates too much heat to be Constant ON."
« Last Edit: April 13, 2014, 04:51:38 AM by Hoser » Logged

I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

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gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2014, 10:47:10 AM »

I'm only going by memory, but I think this is an issue of the ground. Maybe a search?

Maybe do a search or wait for others who have had it happen post.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

BigBad1
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Posts: 112


1999 Interstate

Garner NC


« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2014, 11:01:12 AM »

Sound like you may have pinched a wire (causing a short circuit) when putting the switch back together causing current to flow contently to that signal light. Be cautions letting that light stay on for too long. I have heard of some saying they have melted the housing with single filament bulbs staying on since those are only suppose to be on for short periods of time. If you really want the rear turn signals to work as running lights, it is very easy to change the sockets to accept dual filament bulbs and then connect the running light to the tail light. The only difference will be that your rear signals will blink from dim to bright as your front signals are designed to blink completely off and on (making it more distinct that the signal is on). You should also change the lens covers to red.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2014, 11:09:11 AM by BigBad1 » Logged

Hoser
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Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2014, 12:05:53 PM »

Already have red lenses, will open it up and check for pinched wire.  Hoser
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30489


No VA


« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2014, 01:10:16 PM »

Hoser, a number of outfits sell a little controller box you can splice in at the right side cover that converts 1156 single filament rear signals to run, turn, brake.  My supervalk came this way, and with red lenses.

What you have does sound like a gound issue.

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Michvalk
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Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2014, 02:29:48 PM »

Check the connector under the rear fender for corrosion/worn wire. cooldude
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Hoser
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Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2014, 02:47:47 PM »

Hoser, a number of outfits sell a little controller box you can splice in at the right side cover that converts 1156 single filament rear signals to run, turn, brake.  My supervalk came this way, and with red lenses.

What you have does sound like a gound issue.


I didn't really disturb anything,  Just scraped some dirt a residue of the connections and the return mechanism that you push to center the signal when you reset the signal switch, and doused to good with contact cleaner spray followed up by silicone spray,  when turn signal worked properly. Well, one running light on the rear is better than the none you get in normal operation.  Maybe it will go off sometime,or with the better result of the right side doing the same thing.   Smiley  Hoser
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

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Hoser
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Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2014, 05:41:33 AM »

bump
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

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