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CajunRider
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« on: July 30, 2009, 07:05:46 PM » |
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Here's the problem I'm having... from the top... I bought the Valk used... it has 6X6 exhaust and a K&N air filter. It's unknown if jetting was performed. I've never been into the carbs. It ran great at anything above 1500 rpm, but backfired on decel, and was choppy on take off until 1500-2000 rpm was reached. Then... I had a gas tank leak... I repaired that leak, added a belly tank, brand new belly tank leaks were fixed, and de-smogged the carbs. While doing all this, the bike sat for about 3 months without running for more than a few minutes at a time. Of course, this ain't good for carbs. So... after everything was finished, I cranked her up, and she didn't like it. I put a can of Sea Foam in the tank and resolved to running it to hopefully clear everything out. Well... it's running better now, but is still below 1500 rpm... worse now actually, it's hard to get going from a stop without a good bit of throttle. So... while riding the past few days, I noticed that it would run GREAT at low rpm (below 1500) if I kept a smidge of choke on. The idle is a bit bouncy, but immediate throttle makes for an ultra smooth take off from a stop. From all this... I'm thinking she's too lean. I need to check the plugs to be sure, but the choke pretty much hammers down the idea that she's way lean on the idle (or "slow") jets. So two questions... 1 - If I pull the jets, is there any markings on them to tell me what size they are? 2 - If I opt to buy a set of 38 slows and 105 mains, where can I buy them without going broke? (Jets seem to be fairly cheap at about 10-20 bucks for a set of 4 or 6, but a jet KIT seems pricey at 150-170 bucks!!) 3 - Ok... so I lied... there are 3 questions...  ........... 3 - Would 105 mains be better with the 6X6 pipes and a K&N... or would 110 be better... or I heard once that 105 in the front carbs with 110 in the back 4 is best???) Thanks in advance!!  |
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« Last Edit: July 31, 2009, 05:13:01 PM by CajunRider »
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Madmike
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« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2009, 09:48:17 PM » |
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Robert
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« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2009, 06:58:23 AM » |
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Cajun you been around long enough to know all the answers and I would do a search in the old and new boards for jets and it will give you all the info you need. To much to list here but here is a link to Sudco they have jets and you can buy as many as you need. I would take out the baffle put in 110 mains and 38 slows and you will have to play with the needles to get right since you are not going for a kit. I have the factory Pro kit in my bike and thats what it came with and it works and still get good mileage. I also have a belly tank and the pump does seem to make a difference in the mixture. Some even go as high as 125 mains without the baffle and have had good results but I stuck with what Factory recommended. The kit also came with 112,115,118 mains. There you have the short version, before I did the jets I did go to the old board and came up with allot of info it influenced my decision on what to do. http://www.sudco.com/ |
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
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Willow
Administrator
Member
Posts: 16631
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2009, 07:24:26 AM » |
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I bought the Valk used... it has 6X6 exhaust and a K&N air filter. It's unknown if jetting was performed. I've never been into the carbs.
It ran great at anything above 1500 rpm, but backfired on decel, and was choppy on take off until 1500-2000 Running poorly at low RPM's surely sounds like gummed up slow jets, but the threshold should be more like 2500 - 3000. A bottle of Techron will clean more aggressively than Seafoam. 6X6 isn't descriptive enough. Cobras sometimes require rejetting. TBRs do not. |
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CajunRider
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« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2009, 10:48:04 AM » |
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Cajun you been around long enough to know all the answers and I would do a search in the old and new boards for jets and it will give you all the info you need. Yeah, you're right... I should know this already!! I'm just not good with carbs and am scared to spend over $100 to get something that needs much tweaking after the installation. I wish there was a way to know the jet size by looking at them... it may already be jetted!!! Oh well... time to go start pulling carbs apart to see if it could just be clogged. |
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CajunRider
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« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2009, 10:50:49 AM » |
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6X6 isn't descriptive enough. Cobras sometimes require rejetting. TBRs do not. [/quote] Cobras... I know some need jetting some don't... I'll have to back out the pilots to know for sure I guess... which means pulling the carbs before I order parts... I wonder if I can fashion a pilot tool today??? I guess I'll go find out.  |
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Robert
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« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2009, 11:11:32 AM » |
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Cajun I really doubt that you will have a problem you have done enough to your bike to get along ok. Not to mention being around long enough you have really seen some butter fingers doing ok with carbs so take some courage that if they can do it you can too. The job is not hard take your time and for the most part it really is a no brainer. The slows take 38 there really is no adjustment in that and a safe upgrade. The 110s on the mains with the baffle out is already been tested for you by yours truly and more importantly Factory Pro. The other option is to leave the stock jets in and just richen the needles a bit. The needles are the only adjustment and may need a little playing with but I really doubt that even if you left the stock needles in with the upgrade in main jets that you would have to much of a problem. With all this said you can also buy the Factory jet kit that literally includes everything you need to do a good job, even the bowl screws which I was so happy to see. I got the stage 2 kit but you can do the 1 where you dont remove the baffle and I think the mains go up to 102 or 105 and they give you a different needle and slows. So you have alot of options and really none require all that much tinkering with to get right. Plus the way our bikes are anything along these line is a improvement wont require allot of adjustment and will provide the grin factor  |
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
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sandy
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« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2009, 11:39:02 AM » |
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I'd get a pilot screw tool and check all the settings. You might find opening up all the pilots to 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 turns out will fix the low speed issues without any parts. It sounds like cruising speed running is good.
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CajunRider
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« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2009, 05:12:15 PM » |
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OK...... an update....... (Before I get too far into this... thanks for all for the responses!!) Didn't get as far as trying to play with the pilot jets... cause my battery is dying!!!! I can't complain though... the bike is a 2000 model, and still has the factory battery... I tried to give it a good charge... but that only lasted two starts and it was having trouble turning the engine again. At least it had enough gumption to start the engine and get me home. ANYWAYS.... back to the update... While doing the de-smog, I un-knowingly removed the little tubes to the intakes, making a balance job difficult. That was dumb on my part, but an easy fix. I ordered some more of those tubes and the caps (along with a new battery). When those get here, I'll try again (next week some time). It's a $15 mistake on my part... I should know by now to keep things like this long after I finish the mods. I'll try to find a pilot tool to play with that instead of jetting for now. If that and a balance don't work, I'll go ahead and order a jet kit. Now........ back to trying to fashion a pilot tool... or at least finding one to order... |
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Madmike
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« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2009, 05:44:45 PM » |
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if you can get some 3/16 vacuum line you can cut pieces about 2" long and plug them off with machine screws and silicon for now until you get the "proper" caps... it will get you going for now... like a guy I used to know would say... fix it here with baling twine 'til we can get her back to the shop and fix it proper with haywire...
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Gunslinger
Member
Posts: 404
Brian Huntzinger, EMT-P
Wamego, KS
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« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2009, 10:27:43 PM » |
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I have had great result by taking my (Cobra) 6x6 baffles out, welding in freeze plugs at the distal (motor) side which had been drilled with a 3/8ths bit. This provides increased back pressure and I did not have to jet or adjust the carbs. I have over 2500 miles on this setup in altitudes from 1000 (home) to 14000+ feet and have had no issues.
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VRCC# 26468 VRCCDS# 0228  "Some learn by listening, Others learn by watching... The rest of us have to pee on the electric fence ourselves" |
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CajunRider
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« Reply #11 on: August 01, 2009, 09:01:50 AM » |
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I have had great result by taking my (Cobra) 6x6 baffles out, welding in freeze plugs at the distal (motor) side which had been drilled with a 3/8ths bit. This provides increased back pressure and I did not have to jet or adjust the carbs. I have over 2500 miles on this setup in altitudes from 1000 (home) to 14000+ feet and have had no issues.
Did you completely close the hole or just shrink it down a bit?? I though about trying this on both sides of the baffle to quiet down the pipes a bit while providing a bit more back pressure. I just hate to damage them in the process. My old BMW had a similar setup on it's after market pipes. (He used a washer instead of a freeze plug.) The only difference was that he welded the washer to the header instead of the baffle. I'm curious about wrapping the baffle with glass also... I read on here somewhere that it will quiet them slightly... I'm curious if it adds much back pressure. I love the deep sound of the Cobras, but it's a bit TOO loud (for me anyway). Modifying those baffles was going to be my next project. |
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Gunslinger
Member
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Brian Huntzinger, EMT-P
Wamego, KS
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« Reply #12 on: August 08, 2009, 05:43:10 PM » |
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No I did not completely close the hole. The freeze plugs were drilled in the center with a 3/8"ths bit before welding them onto the baffle.
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VRCC# 26468 VRCCDS# 0228 "Some learn by listening, Others learn by watching... The rest of us have to pee on the electric fence ourselves" |
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BlueValk
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« Reply #13 on: August 08, 2009, 06:07:42 PM » |
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Don't know for sure if you got this answer yet or not. My 35 slows are labeled on the side (35S) and the mains are labeled on the slot end. If you remove one bowl and those jets, you will know if the carbs are rejetted or not.
BllueValk
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CajunRider
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« Reply #14 on: October 15, 2009, 09:12:10 AM » |
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Don't know for sure if you got this answer yet or not. My 35 slows are labeled on the side (35S) and the mains are labeled on the slot end. If you remove one bowl and those jets, you will know if the carbs are rejetted or not.
BllueValk
A new update... I finally did get a chance to pull the carbs out. The jets are labeled. I have 35 slows and 100 mains. I thought about replacing with larger until I noticed 4 out of the 6 slows were clogged!!! Holy cow!!! It ran like that?!?!?!?!? I'm used to thumper engines... clogged jet means no run without lots of choke... Well... I figured I'd clear them out and put it all back together with stock jets to see how it runs. Worst case, I pull the carbs again and buy about $30 worth of jets. (I'll only change the slows, cause the mains seem to work fine as they are.) So... hopefully I can get it back together for the weekend... supposed to be nice weather for a change!!! |
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CajunRider
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« Reply #15 on: October 16, 2009, 06:50:47 PM » |
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It's all back together now, and it runs!!! WOOHOO!!!!
It doesn't seem to have the power it used to though... but I noticed a vibration while accelerating, so I think the carb sync is all out of whack since it was initially done with clogged jets. I'll have to try to balance the carbs again and see what that does.
I do have one more question.
It seems that the starter doesn't want to always turn over with full power. The starting relay always clicks, but the engine will sometimes only turn over once or twice and then stop. Sounds like a dying battery, but that was just replaced and I know I'm getting 12 volts out of the relay. (12.6 Volts, actually)
Would the starter relay contacts be burned up, or is the starter starting to go bad???
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Warlock
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« Reply #16 on: October 16, 2009, 07:02:06 PM » |
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Sounds like relay (aka starter switch)
David
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 I don't want to hear the labor pains, I just want to see the baby |
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CajunRider
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« Reply #17 on: October 16, 2009, 08:19:28 PM » |
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Sounds like relay (aka starter switch)
David
Gooooooooood...... A relay is easy to fix... |
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1fastbob
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« Reply #18 on: October 16, 2009, 09:26:16 PM » |
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I would still dump a full bottle of Techron in it. You might not have got all the crap out of the jets and ports.
Ain't taking the carbs out fun???!!??
Bob
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I'm on somebody's list! BFD!
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Slammer
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« Reply #19 on: October 17, 2009, 08:14:05 AM » |
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a cylinder hydrolocking. If so it can do some expensive damage inside the motor.
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CajunRider
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« Reply #20 on: October 21, 2009, 06:40:43 AM » |
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a cylinder hydrolocking. If so it can do some expensive damage inside the motor.
Can't be hydrolock... I have the belly tank, so no power = no fuel. |
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CajunRider
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« Reply #21 on: October 21, 2009, 06:48:10 AM » |
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New problem #.... hell, I forget what number I'm on now... The spring that sits above the vacuum baffle at the very top of the carb... # 3 carb... is broken in half...  I noticed # 3 spitting a bit of smoke out the tail pipe. Naturally, I though I had put something together wrong, so I started checking. Low and behold, that spring was broken. At least it wasn't my fault!!! Anyway, it's part # 11 in the carb assembly microfiche. It holds pressure on the baffle that connects to the needle. Anyone know exactly what this does?? I'd like to know whether it riches/leans at different times (idle, accel, decel, cruise, etc). Since there's no mechanical connection to the throttle (only vacuum), I'm not quite sure how it works. |
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John U.
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« Reply #22 on: October 21, 2009, 04:43:11 PM » |
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The spring works against the vacume to control how far and how fast the jet needle moves. I believe you can get a set from HDL for not a lot. Some replace with I/S springs for faster throttle response. The set runs a little over 12 bucks.
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CajunRider
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« Reply #23 on: October 25, 2009, 04:19:37 PM » |
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WOOOHOOO!!!!! She runs again!!! Better than ever!!! A big thanks to Dusty for going through my bike with me to get everything set right!!! The first thing he found was that I had knocked a connection loose from the center coil (for cylinders 3 & 4). I should have seen that...  He then set about fixing my springs in the top of the carbs, checking all connections to/from the air box, setting the pilots, and balancing the carbs. All of a sudden, my bike will pull the front end off the ground!!!! Had a nice ride yesterday and today to make sure everything is staying set (about 200 miles or so), and everything looks perfect!! Thanks again Dusty!! If anyone needs carb help, he can take care of it for ya!! |
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