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Jeff K
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« on: April 18, 2014, 04:23:02 PM » |
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Replaced My POS Metzler tire. It only had about 10,000 miles on it but it was unstable and had to go. While I was at it I checked the splines of course. And there is apparently something wrong with my magic holes in the bottom of my pinion cup. The splines were fine, and the grease was fine, No rust at all, the Magic pump holes were clear as can be, I could see the bearing through them. But there isn't one drop of gear lube in that cup. None. No evidence that there ever was. So my magic pumper holes must be bad. There isn't even a remote possibility that the oil had drained back without mixing with the grease. So I guess now I either need new magic holes, a better final drive, or maybe just scrap the bike?  |
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pancho
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« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2014, 05:35:36 PM » |
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If those magic holes aren't working,,,, I think you better go for the last option.... scrap the bike!!
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Grandpot
Member
Posts: 630
Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1
Fort Mill, South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2014, 06:03:48 PM » |
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Is there any oil in the rear end? The successful operation of the holes requires that oil be present.  When you are ready to scrap the bike, I'll come by with a trailer and haul it off for you.  |
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Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it. |
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sandy
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« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2014, 06:20:08 PM » |
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Jeff, You say no rust but the photo shows no grease and plenty of rust. Also I've done my own shaft service for 141K miles. I've never found any gear oil in my cup and haven't had any problems. I use Valvoline Durablend and apply it as if no oil migrates up into the cup.
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Jeff K
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« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2014, 06:27:12 PM » |
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yeah, the picture looks red, but I assure you there was no rust, Just black grease. I couldn't get a decent picture. I too have never seen gear oil in my pinion cup. This was sarcasm.  |
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« Last Edit: April 18, 2014, 06:33:46 PM by Jeff K »
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2014, 06:32:25 PM » |
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I've read and seen the pics of various posts over the years about dried out/rusty splines/P cups and discussions about the two-little holes in the cup for rear end dope to lubricate. And some of these failures have occurred in seemingly very well maintained bikes... and a bit of a (very random) mystery. (Those with poor (or no) maintenance are no mystery at all.)
The correct measurement of rear end dope in ounces is roughly the same if you don't measure, but fill a perfectly level final drive just to the point it begins to leak back out.
So here is my question, would there be anything wrong with overfilling the final, by say a small two additional ounces of dope (on a crooked final drive), to better insure it gets up to the cup? I know that too much fluid can create an overpressure situation, and that a certain excess will be spit out the breather on top. Would two extra ounces do either, and if not, would it better ensure fluid to the cup?
And, I am guessing water is also a problem sometimes (Ujoint boot or other), unrelated to Pinion cup lubrication.
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« Last Edit: April 18, 2014, 06:35:02 PM by Jess from VA »
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whitestroke
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« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2014, 07:05:59 PM » |
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I don't see what the problem would be, any excess would go out the cup. I will start with an extra ounce next time rear tire is off.
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Minibike
Honda S90
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Yamaha 250 YZ
Triumph 650 Bonni
Honda ATC 200
2 Kids 25 year break.
Suzuki GS 500
2003 VTX 1300S,
1998 Valk standard
2008 Goldwing
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2014, 07:43:56 PM » |
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I've also read post about the P-Cup being lubed by gear oil, there is only 5 ounces in the final drive, how long could that last if oil flows to the p-cup. I Belray the heck out of it and let it go.
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast. |
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2014, 08:47:11 AM » |
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What a predicament!  Keep the bike, clean everything up, replace the pinion cup, the shaft drive, service all the final drive, Bel Ray all the splines, check the final drive hypoid level and ride your beautiful valk.  |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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Jeff K
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« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2014, 09:24:04 AM » |
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What a predicament! Keep the bike, clean everything up, replace the pinion cup, the shaft drive, service all the final drive, Bel Ray all the splines, check the final drive hypoid level and ride your beautiful valk. Why would I replace a perfectly good pinion cup and drive shaft??? ??? |
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98valk
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« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2014, 09:46:18 AM » |
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Jeff k
I saw u posted it "looks like rust but its not". I have had the same on my splines and looking at it with 5x eye piece I could see it is actually copper anti-sieze, from the factory, which has tremedous anti-wear properties esp., for new machined metal to metal contact. So ever since I put a very light coat of copper anti-sieze and then the TS-70 moly paste.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Quicksilver
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« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2014, 10:40:38 AM » |
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What if those holes are not for lubrication but are intended to vent the area to prevent pressure pushing out the oil seal when the spline heats up. The final drive has the vent on top so those holes would allow communication into the final drive for that area. I grease those splines on the drive shaft heavily with Bel Ray grease and I still get a bit of red in there at the bottom between servicing. The splines have remained in good shape up till now. I apply the same grease to both ends of the driveshaft. The top end splines are not lubricated with anything else. Why should the bottom end require continuous lubrication from the final drive? That being said the holes are there for a reason and I clean them when servicing that area.
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1997 Standard   |
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2014, 01:17:12 PM » |
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What a predicament! Keep the bike, clean everything up, replace the pinion cup, the shaft drive, service all the final drive, Bel Ray all the splines, check the final drive hypoid level and ride your beautiful valk. Why would I replace a perfectly good pinion cup and drive shaft??? ??? Sorry Jeff! What I thought I was looking at were a lot of bad splines. Guess not.? |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A |
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Jeff K
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« Reply #13 on: April 19, 2014, 01:59:50 PM » |
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What a predicament! Keep the bike, clean everything up, replace the pinion cup, the shaft drive, service all the final drive, Bel Ray all the splines, check the final drive hypoid level and ride your beautiful valk. Why would I replace a perfectly good pinion cup and drive shaft??? ??? Sorry Jeff! What I thought I was looking at were a lot of bad splines. Guess not.? Nope, I cleaned them up and they still look like new.  |
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