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Author Topic: Help with rear wheel and final drive  (Read 856 times)
vmb
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Posts: 50

Mississippi


« on: April 20, 2014, 08:29:08 PM »

OK, got things together on my 2000 IS after changing out orings, drive shaft and pinion cup but having difficulty getting rear wheel to slip into the final drive. The "four nuts" are loose on the shaft housing, the flange seems to have meshed when the wheel is mounted into the pumpkin but it just don't seem to be in all the way. It was a very tight fit for the wheel spacer and the caliper bracket (damn near wouldn't squeeze in its space)but the wheel hub just doesn't seem like its in far enough inside the final drive. I notice there are 2 or 3 ridges on the rim of the hub where it inserts into the final drive. When assembled are any of these ridges supposed to show? The rim of the hub is just barely inside the black dust guard plate on the pumpkin. This is my first time inside this bike and I am just trying to feel my way through. I sure have gotten a butt load of information from this site and like someone said on here,  just dive in and learn. I am glad I did. Learned a bunch. Thanks to all and to this site. Virgil
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Michvalk
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Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2014, 08:37:15 PM »

The O-rings on the final drive sometimes will make it hard to push the wheel into the rear easy. The wheel does not fit into the plastic ring very far. If you have the thrust washer in there with the spacer and the brake mount, and the axle is in then it's good. Torque the axle first, then tighten the four bolts. Make sure the bolt is in the brake support first, though. If the wheel was not in the proper position, you would not get the spacer in. cooldude
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vmb
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Posts: 50

Mississippi


« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2014, 08:52:53 PM »

Got all the rings and washer in place, had the axle all the way flush with the spacer and it was all I could do to slip the caliper bracket in place. So maybe I am just being paranoid about my novice. But better safe than all busted up. Thanks and Happy Easter
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pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2014, 04:50:00 AM »

Some have reported problems with certain Orings, the large one, which cause that problem. Where did you purchase the Orings?
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
bentwrench
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Posts: 760

Philadelphia,Pa.


« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2014, 05:15:14 AM »

O-rings can be a snug fit just make sure it all spins freely when your done and should be fine.
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30489


No VA


« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2014, 05:17:18 AM »

I notice there are 2 or 3 ridges on the rim of the hub where it inserts into the final drive. When assembled are any of these ridges supposed to show?

Yes.  But I think it's one groove outside the dust cover (not a ridge).
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2014, 06:13:28 AM »

+1 on the fact that if you have all the parts on the axle between the swing arm and final drive.....then all is good, it cannot fit otherwise.  This is a common first timers concern.  cooldude Good job.
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vmb
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Posts: 50

Mississippi


« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2014, 10:59:45 AM »

I got parts from Partzilla. The wheel when inserted into final drive doesn't just snap in. The flange meshes up but when I release my hold on it the wheel hub doesn't just stay right in place. It kinda tilts somewhat but doesn't 'pop' in place and not move which is what led me to think I am overlooking something. Sound normal to yall?
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2014, 11:23:15 AM »

I got parts from Partzilla. The wheel when inserted into final drive doesn't just snap in. The flange meshes up but when I release my hold on it the wheel hub doesn't just stay right in place. It kinda tilts somewhat but doesn't 'pop' in place and not move which is what led me to think I am overlooking something. Sound normal to yall?
Thats normal. You are good, as ChrisJ said if you've got the thrust washer,spacer,& brake caliper bracket on you are good. It is tight but the next time you do it, it will seem like a piece of cake cooldude
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kyrie6
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Posts: 84


« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2014, 11:30:12 AM »

ONE NOTE: I got the red eye 0-rings. Is almost impossible to get the hub to slip over the 3rd oring. Where will all pull up enough for the caliper bracket to go in place.  I'll go back with oem on that o-ring next time.
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2014, 11:33:13 AM »

ONE NOTE: I got the red eye 0-rings. Is almost impossible to get the hub to slip over the 3rd oring. Where will all pull up enough for the caliper bracket to go in place.  I'll go back with oem on that o-ring next time.
Try Carolina bike & trike. I think they have 5 packs of them.
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Punisher
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Posts: 308


No, not vengenance. Punishment.


« Reply #11 on: April 21, 2014, 12:09:37 PM »

Be careful when installing the wheel/flange back into the final drive.   That's when folks tend to break the big o-ring that goes behind the teeth on the flange.

A good chance that has happened is after you first ride it a few miles, wipe any excess grease that may sling out off your wheel (if you packed a lot of grease in there) and then the next time you ride a fair amount more grease is on the wheel.

The best way to avoid that is get the wheel/flange in position and before sliding it in the final drive, insert the axle shaft all the way through so that you know it is all in correct alignment, then push the wheel/flange into the final drive.   You can then slide the shaft back enough to allow the spacer and brake bracket to be installed.

Good luck!

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vmb
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Posts: 50

Mississippi


« Reply #12 on: April 21, 2014, 05:47:59 PM »

Good point there Punisher about using the bolt to help with alignment. Thanks again to all your comments. What a web site!
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