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HossinMA
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« on: April 21, 2014, 03:21:39 PM » |
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OK. So it's been a crazy couple of years and unfortunately the bike took a rather neglected beating. I am back in the garage, and determined to ride the hell out of it this summer and am doing the needed maintnence. Replacing my brakes I am unfortunately discovering that my calipers are absolutely siezed. I have them off the bike and have tried every trick I know shy of grabbing the pistons with a pair of vice grips and I cannot move then for anything. Hoping someone has a thought to help out. I would be happy simply to buy a few new calipers, but as luck would have it my employer decided it was a wonderful time of year to reduce some head count and I was one of them. So spending $1000 on new calipers is a little irresponsible.  Thanks in advance for any advice. I can use it. Glenn (Hoss) May |
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pancho
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« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2014, 03:26:06 PM » |
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If they are seized that you cannot push the pistons out with the pressure of the master cylinder..... you may try some air pressure,, if they are too far gone for that, maybe a used caliper from eBay.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2014, 03:39:24 PM » |
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Like Pancho said, if fluid pressure won't move them its time for air pressure. Don't be afraid to soak them, heat them, and sock the air to them. You said you tried all the tricks, the main trick is to soak them and then compress them[ push the pistons in first, so I'll assume you've already tried that.
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HossinMA
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« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2014, 04:02:21 PM » |
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Like Pancho said, if fluid pressure won't move them its time for air pressure. Don't be afraid to soak them, heat them, and sock the air to them. You said you tried all the tricks, the main trick is to soak them and then compress them[ push the pistons in first, so I'll assume you've already tried that.
I have. They have been soaking for a few hours. I just re-assembled the brake system and tried forcing it out with the brake fluid (Even filled the calipers first) I know it's a no-no but I have tried soaking them in a couple of different products. I have new seals and will re-build if I can get em apart. Any suggestions on what to soak em in? I can let it sit overnight. Poor girl is neglected. I feel bad for her. Thanks G |
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pancho
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« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2014, 04:22:47 PM » |
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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HossinMA
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« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2014, 04:34:10 PM » |
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Thank you. I was looking at them, but trying not to spend too much more money. Probably not much of an option at this point. G |
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indybobm
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« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2014, 04:46:18 PM » |
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I had a rear caliper that was stuck. I used a lever type grease gun. I removed the coupler on the end of the grease gun where it connects to the zerk fittings and screwed it into the brake line fitting of the caliper. In my case the threads were very close to being the same. I only screwed it in a little. Pumped it up with the lever and the pistons came right out. When the first piston starts to move, use something to keep it from coming out all of the way so that the pressure can be applied to the other piston. Just be careful so that you do not damage the threads on the caliper.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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bentwrench
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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2014, 05:02:15 PM » |
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What indie bob said works.1/8" npt is very close to the 10m x1.0 on the caliper.You don't have to screw it in tight just snug.If they're coming out this will do it.
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HossinMA
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« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2014, 05:32:48 PM » |
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I had a rear caliper that was stuck. I used a lever type grease gun. I removed the coupler on the end of the grease gun where it connects to the zerk fittings and screwed it into the brake line fitting of the caliper. In my case the threads were very close to being the same. I only screwed it in a little. Pumped it up with the lever and the pistons came right out. When the first piston starts to move, use something to keep it from coming out all of the way so that the pressure can be applied to the other piston. Just be careful so that you do not damage the threads on the caliper.
What did you put in there for grease? |
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indybobm
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2014, 05:37:47 PM » |
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The grease gun is for greasing ball joints and tie rod ends. I used the regular chassis grease in a tube that fits the lever style grease gun.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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olddog1946
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« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2014, 07:08:44 PM » |
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Put the system back together, without mounting them on the forks. Wrap the calipers in a plastic bag or similar item, bleed and use hydraulic pressure to move em. I just put a piece of a paint stirring stick between the pads. Worked like a charm.
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VRCC # 32473
US AIR FORCE E7, Retired 1965-1988
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65 Chevelle coupe, 1986 Mazda RX-7 with 350/5spd, 1983 Mazda RX-7 with FOMOCO 302/AOD project, 95 Mustang GT Convertible 5.0, 5 spd
Moses Lake, Wa. 509-760-6382 if you need help
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HossinMA
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« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2014, 04:31:28 AM » |
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The grease gun is for greasing ball joints and tie rod ends. I used the regular chassis grease in a tube that fits the lever style grease gun.
My only concern with that is the residual petroleum if I fill the cavity with grease. Wouldn't that have an adverse effect on the seals? G |
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2014, 05:16:15 AM » |
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I had the bottom pistons on my truck siezed. I got them off and use brake cleaner and then alot of wd 40. Used a c clamp and got them pushed back in. Been working well the past week.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2014, 05:17:37 AM » |
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The grease gun is for greasing ball joints and tie rod ends. I used the regular chassis grease in a tube that fits the lever style grease gun.
My only concern with that is the residual petroleum if I fill the cavity with grease. Wouldn't that have an adverse effect on the seals? Its not there long enough to bother, plus, you have new seals, right. I take it that you haven't tried to compress them first with a c-clamp. G |
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flsix
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« Reply #14 on: April 22, 2014, 05:25:27 AM » |
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You'll probably have to flush the caliper with some type of solvent. Try using a piece of steel flat bar between the pistons, set the caliper on a bench and use two C clamps to put even pressure on the pistons to force them back in. Once you have some pressure on the pistons you could use a mallet and tap on the housing gently to break them loose.
Good Luck.
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2013 F6B
ESCHEW OBFUSCATION
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dancnman
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« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2014, 04:58:07 AM » |
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As has been stated by a couple of members, try to get them to push back in. Then use air pressure to push them out. put something between the pistons and the caliper so they can not come all the way out. I used a lot of pressure to finally get my stuck pistons to come out and when it finally did, it bounced around like a bullet in my shop and then went somewhere. I never found it. Like I said, put something between the piston and caliper body to keep it from coming all the way out.
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Reality is that thing which does not change simply because I choose to ignore it.
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16787
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2014, 05:18:08 AM » |
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As has been stated by a couple of members, try to get them to push back in. Then use air pressure to push them out.
Pushing them in to get them to come out sounds backwards, but I wish I had thought of that when my caliper seized up once... I finally submitted to pulling them out with vise grips and of course ruined the pistons... now I take my calipers apart and clean everything whenever I change pads, and my brakes always work great... That's a great avatar dancnman   -Mike |
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da prez
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« Reply #17 on: April 23, 2014, 07:18:54 AM » |
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At this point , you do not have much to loose. Remove the bleeder , drain and fill with wd-40. Slowly push the pistons in with the bleeder hole up and a rag to catch the fluid. When the pistons move , and they will , hook up a power source (air ,grease gun, master cylinder) and put a paint stir stick to stop the pistons from blowing all the way out. When they move , push them out until they hit the stir stick. When they get this far , the rest is easy. Wash all the parts with hot soapy water , rinse well with hot water and dry. ( put in the dishwasher if you want , but still rinse with hot water. We restore a lot of old bikes. Be sure to clean the ring groove and bore . Then assemble as per instructions. Bleed the system fully.
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old2soon
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« Reply #18 on: April 23, 2014, 07:27:50 AM » |
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When my rear caliper locked up and after I had removed the offending part I COULD NOT get the pistons out of the caliper body. Went to my local mechanic and used his compressed air system. 1 of them popped right out-the other argued a bit but we got it out also. The culprit in all this was corrosion on the exposed part of the pistons. I used Scotch Brite on the pistons and bores in the caliper body. Nice thing about Scotch Brite is it removes the corrosion but a very miniscule portion of piston or bore material-if any at all. Don't use sand paper. New O-rings-don't screw around with after market O-Rings-get O E M Honda rings-DO NOT ask me how I know this. After cleaning everything I washed with gasoline-hey-I'm an old time shade tree sort-and flushed it all with alcohol. Some new brake fluid used during reassembly refill with new fluid and bleed em down and you should be good to go. When I ordered my caliper O-rings I ordered enough for 2 rebuilds front and rear. Good luck with it. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16787
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #19 on: April 23, 2014, 08:29:15 AM » |
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Be sure to clean the ring groove and bore
I think the groove is hard to clean... any tips?
-Mike
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old2soon
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« Reply #20 on: April 23, 2014, 09:39:46 AM » |
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Be sure to clean the ring groove and bore
I think the groove is hard to clean... any tips?
-Mike
Friend of mine who wrenches has a set of dental pick thingys like dentist's use. AND there was not much crud in the O-ring grooves to begin with. BUT I did make sure the grooves were cleaned up as this is WHERE the O-rings seat. That and an old toothbrush. Hellz bellz-NEW toothbrushes ain't that much to begin with. When I was detailing cars a LONG time ago toothbrush to clean out the wax from around the chrome strips. Always at least ONE toothbrush in my tool box. In addition to a selection of wire brushes-steel and brass-I have some nylon bristle brushes in tool box. RIDE SAFE. |
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16787
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #21 on: April 23, 2014, 09:52:22 AM » |
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Be sure to clean the ring groove and bore
I think the groove is hard to clean... any tips?
-Mike
Friend of mine who wrenches has a set of dental pick thingys like dentist's use. AND there was not much crud in the O-ring grooves to begin with. BUT I did make sure the grooves were cleaned up as this is WHERE the O-rings seat. That and an old toothbrush. Hellz bellz-NEW toothbrushes ain't that much to begin with. When I was detailing cars a LONG time ago toothbrush to clean out the wax from around the chrome strips. Always at least ONE toothbrush in my tool box. In addition to a selection of wire brushes-steel and brass-I have some nylon bristle brushes in tool box. RIDE SAFE. This might be the caliper that came on my bike, the one that seized...  But all the calipers that I've seen had stuff down in the grooves I couldn't completely clean out... -Mike |
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #22 on: April 23, 2014, 11:36:31 AM » |
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As reported before, my calipers clean up very nicely with gun bore solvent and a metal pistol rod and brass, stainless brushes. Aerosol brake claner to blow it all out. Eye protection.
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16787
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #23 on: April 23, 2014, 12:08:29 PM » |
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As reported before, my calipers clean up very nicely with gun bore solvent and a metal pistol rod and brass, stainless brushes. Aerosol brake claner to blow it all out. Eye protection.
Oh yeah, I remember you saying that... I hope I remember it next time I have a caliper off (I'll probably have both the front ones off next tire)... -Mike |
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04strider
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« Reply #24 on: April 23, 2014, 04:57:32 PM » |
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Whenever old brake fluid gets old, it will turn white and crystallizes. This crystalized fluid gets under the seal and constricts it around the piston, seizing it in the bore. After you get the pistons out as others have indicated, it is important to clean the groove thoroughly, this can be difficult. Since the caliper is aluminum, it is easy to scratch or gouge the groove trying to clean it, resulting in a leak. I make a cleaning tool out of an aluminum welding rod, bend a short tip 90 degrees, and sharpen to a scraper edge like a 90 degree screwdriver with a file or sandpaper on a flat surface. You can now reach in the groove and clean the square corners without fear of scratching the bottom of the groove. Finish cleaning the bore and pistons with scotchbrite.
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indybobm
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« Reply #25 on: April 24, 2014, 04:58:51 AM » |
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Be sure to clean the ring groove and bore
I think the groove is hard to clean... any tips?
-Mike
A Dremel Tool with a small wire wheel. Use it to clean the groove, keep it away from the bore. |
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16787
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #26 on: April 24, 2014, 06:22:35 AM » |
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Be sure to clean the ring groove and bore
I think the groove is hard to clean... any tips?
-Mike
A Dremel Tool with a small wire wheel. Use it to clean the groove, keep it away from the bore. I tried that, but was too chicken to use the wire one, I used the wheel that was more like a brush... -Mike "maybe the wire wheel and the gun bore solvent..." |
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