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F6Rider614
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« on: May 23, 2014, 06:05:47 AM » |
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Okay, here goes ....
I've read a LOT of the forums trying to diagnose what this could possibly be.
Based on what I'm experiencing verses what's been posted, I can definitely mark off several things.
Let me start by describing what's happening. When I'm riding solo, things seem fine, nothing wrong. When my wife joins me, there is an intermittent grinding type sound that seems to be coming from directly under my butt. It doesn't matter whether I'm in gear, out of gear or in neutral. The only thing I haven't tried is shutting down the engine while rolling.
I recently replaced my battery.
I recently changed my oil. I used synthetics from Honda.
Also recently changed my rear rotor and brake pads.
Since reading up on the forums and deciding to go Darkside, I have removed my rear tire and while it is apart, I am checking my universal joint, looks good. Final drive is lubed and good. All splines look good.
Getting a Michelin car tire today on wheel 205 60 16, already made the nut box mod.
I plan to drain a quart of oil and top off with Lucas Oil Additive, Grease up the Universal Joint and reinstall, grease up all the splines, reinstall my wheel, reassemble and test drive tonight. Is there ANYTHING else you guys/gals can suggest I check before I put this thing back together?
Any input is appreciated....
Thanks,
Brian
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Bighead
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« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2014, 06:11:00 AM » |
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Try adjusting you preload to a heavier setting if it don't do it solo it seems to me the extra weight may be making the ct rub something under the fender whether it be your nut box mod or something else. That is where I would start?good luck and keep us updated.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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flcjr
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« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2014, 06:14:31 AM » |
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Check your wheel bearings. You got the wheel off now is the time if they need it.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2014, 06:47:06 AM » |
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+1 sounds like a wheel bearing...if the wheel is on the bike check for a bad wheel bearing by trying to move the wheel side to side while its on the lift. a slight movement (feels like "tit tic tic" ) means bad bearing
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2014, 06:53:01 AM » |
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Yeah, checked that. They seem good too. That's why I'm at a loss. Got a big weekend ride planned and this hits me. Ouch... I'll probably replace them too tonight, cause it's cheap and easy.
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HayHauler
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« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2014, 08:11:22 AM » |
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Try adjusting you preload to a heavier setting if it don't do it solo it seems to me the extra weight may be making the ct rub something under the fender whether it be your nut box mod or something else. That is where I would start?good luck and keep us updated.
+1 Sounds like something rubbing that isn't when solo. My first GY Triple Tread did that to me. It was rubbing on the fender bolt. I got a grade 8 bolt, shaved the head down to 1/2 the thickness, then inserted it from the inside. Nylon lock nut on the outside and trimmed the bolt even with the nut. Problem solved. But, in my case, I could smell the rubber and see the groove in the tire from the bolt. Check your tire/swing arm/inside rear fender for any rubbing. Hay  Jimmyt |
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2014, 08:24:54 AM » |
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+1 Sounds like something rubbing that isn't when solo. My first GY Triple Tread did that to me. It was rubbing on the fender bolt. I got a grade 8 bolt, shaved the head down to 1/2 the thickness, then inserted it from the inside. Nylon lock nut on the outside and trimmed the bolt even with the nut.
Problem solved.
But, in my case, I could smell the rubber and see the groove in the tire from the bolt.
Check your tire/swing arm/inside rear fender for any rubbing
 Yeah, I had the regular Cycle tire on it at the time of the noise. Hadn't been there before Rotor and Brake change. Kinda surprised no one has mentioned that... I was kinda fishing there. Things seem to be exactly the same as they were when I removed the old. Now with the Nut Cages removed, I am planning on fishing bolts from the inside out and nutting on the outside, just to ensure clearance on the Darkside tire. Any thoughts there? As soon at I reassemble, I'll know more I think. |
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HayHauler
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« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2014, 08:52:30 AM » |
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+1 Sounds like something rubbing that isn't when solo. My first GY Triple Tread did that to me. It was rubbing on the fender bolt. I got a grade 8 bolt, shaved the head down to 1/2 the thickness, then inserted it from the inside. Nylon lock nut on the outside and trimmed the bolt even with the nut.
Problem solved.
But, in my case, I could smell the rubber and see the groove in the tire from the bolt.
Check your tire/swing arm/inside rear fender for any rubbing
Yeah, I had the regular Cycle tire on it at the time of the noise. Hadn't been there before Rotor and Brake change. Kinda surprised no one has mentioned that... I was kinda fishing there. Things seem to be exactly the same as they were when I removed the old. Now with the Nut Cages removed, I am planning on fishing bolts from the inside out and nutting on the outside, just to ensure clearance on the Darkside tire. Any thoughts there? As soon at I reassemble, I'll know more I think. The bolt from the inside is exactly what I, and others, have done. Works good. The noise could be the brake rotor/caliper rubbing. I had that happen on one of my rear tire changes. If you have the bearings and seal, I would swap them out, just for peace of mind. Hay Jimmyt |
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Michvalk
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« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2014, 08:59:49 AM » |
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If your tire is rubbing on the inside of the fender, or on the wiring harness for the taillights, you won't see a rub on the tire.(Like on the tread) I would look under the fender for a shiny spot on the fender or a wear spot on the wiring. |
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2014, 09:06:33 AM » |
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If your tire is rubbing on the inside of the fender, or on the wiring harness for the taillights, you won't see a rub on the tire.(Like on the tread) I would look under the fender for a shiny spot on the fender or a wear spot on the wiring.  Yeah, looked there last night, We're good!  The bolt from the inside is exactly what I, and others, have done. Works good. The noise could be the brake rotor/caliper rubbing. I had that happen on one of my rear tire changes. If you have the bearings and seal, I would swap them out, just for peace of mind. Hay Jimmyt Yeah, I believe I will be doing that. |
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KG
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« Reply #10 on: May 23, 2014, 10:09:08 AM » |
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Carriage bolts have the rounded heads that work good for installing from the inside out when you do the nut cage mod.
I don't know about using the Lucas in the oil. It may harm the clutch maybe someone here has a better answer about that.
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What we do all have is a limited number of days to devote to whatever we love in this life. Not all the same number of days but all have limited days....Willow
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #11 on: May 23, 2014, 10:12:13 AM » |
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I don't know about using the Lucas in the oil. It may harm the clutch maybe someone here has a better answer about that.
 Yeah... I had the same thought, however it is a synthetic oil in itself. But good call. What does everyone think on that? ~Brian~ |
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #12 on: May 23, 2014, 10:35:51 AM » |
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I don't know about using the Lucas in the oil. It may harm the clutch maybe someone here has a better answer about that.
Yeah... I had the same thought, however it is a synthetic oil in itself. But good call. What does everyone think on that? ~Brian~ Does it contain friction modifiers such as molydisulfide or Teflon? If so: Bad ju-ju for a wet clutch. |
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wild6
Member
Posts: 251
(Old enough to know better)
Vernon, NJ
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« Reply #13 on: May 23, 2014, 11:13:22 AM » |
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Make sure you used the correct replacement rotor for the wheel.
As I understand it, early wheels were marked 1J and used a thinner rotor than the later ones marked 2J.
'Chrisj CMA' is familiar with it.
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  “Meddle not in the affairs of the Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.” |
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michaelyoung254
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« Reply #14 on: May 23, 2014, 11:18:36 AM » |
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What about the U-Joint? Could it possibly be the change in weight (not saying your wife weighs too much  ) along with a slight change in the angle of the final shaft. Not on my bike, but I had a U-joint on my truck that didn't make a sound, but as soon as I hooked up a small trailer (the trailer was empty) it started showing symptoms. Just a thought! Mike |
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1998 Standard - Pearl Sedona Red & Ivory Cream   |
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #15 on: May 23, 2014, 11:23:15 AM » |
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What about the U-Joint? Could it possibly be the change in weight (not saying your wife weighs too much ) along with a slight change in the angle of the final shaft. Not on my bike, but I had a U-joint on my truck that didn't make a sound, but as soon as I hooked up a small trailer (the trailer was empty) it started showing symptoms. Just a thought! Mike She's been on the bike with me for 10 years. only started doing this in the last week or so. |
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nogrey
Member
Posts: 939
Live every day as if it were your last
Nampa, Idaho
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« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2014, 11:28:35 AM » |
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Hmmm....fighting the exact same symptom on my '97 tourer right now. Still apart in the garage. Just replaced the final drive fluid (last night), checked the final driven gear splines, final drive splines, pinion cup splines and drive shaft splines (both ends). All looked good. Bearings in the rear wheels have no play. Tested them laterally and by turning, both on the bike and off. If there is any play in them I can't feel it. I suppose it could be the U-Joint, but the bike only has 6K miles on it.
Scratch, scratch, scratch.....Scratching my head has only caused little red marks.
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nogrey
Member
Posts: 939
Live every day as if it were your last
Nampa, Idaho
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« Reply #17 on: May 23, 2014, 11:34:25 AM » |
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Try adjusting you preload to a heavier setting if it don't do it solo it seems to me the extra weight may be making the ct rub something under the fender whether it be your nut box mod or something else. That is where I would start?good luck and keep us updated.
No one has addressed this comment. I'm not sure how to adjust the preload (unless that means tightening the pinion bolt?). I had a mechanic "adjust" the preload on a chevy suburban I once owned without asking me. He thought he was doing me a favor. The rear end lasted 500 miles after his "adjustment". Ate the gears right up. So I am a little concerned with this approach. |
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michaelyoung254
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« Reply #18 on: May 23, 2014, 11:39:02 AM » |
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What about the U-Joint? Could it possibly be the change in weight (not saying your wife weighs too much ) along with a slight change in the angle of the final shaft. Not on my bike, but I had a U-joint on my truck that didn't make a sound, but as soon as I hooked up a small trailer (the trailer was empty) it started showing symptoms. Just a thought! Mike She's been on the bike with me for 10 years. only started doing this in the last week or so. I kinda assumed that this was something that just started, and what I meant was that maybe it's just at the very beginning of showing symptoms, and that it doesn't show any signs without the extra weight or change in the angle of the final shaft (the extra weight of the passenger pushing down on the swing arm causing a change in the angle. |
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1998 Standard - Pearl Sedona Red & Ivory Cream |
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #19 on: May 23, 2014, 11:47:35 AM » |
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I kinda assumed that this was something that just started, and what I meant was that maybe it's just at the very beginning of showing symptoms, and that it doesn't show any signs without the extra weight or change in the angle of the final shaft (the extra weight of the passenger pushing down on the swing arm causing a change in the angle.
If you read back a bit, I addressed the U-Joint... It looks good... Better than the replacement I bought in fact. <shrug> |
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« Last Edit: May 23, 2014, 11:49:18 AM by F6Rider614 »
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michaelyoung254
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« Reply #20 on: May 23, 2014, 11:52:29 AM » |
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I kinda assumed that this was something that just started, and what I meant was that maybe it's just at the very beginning of showing symptoms, and that it doesn't show any signs without the extra weight or change in the angle of the final shaft (the extra weight of the passenger pushing down on the swing arm causing a change in the angle.
If you read back a bit, I addressed the U-Joint... It looks good... Better than the replacement I bought in fact. <shrug> My bad, I guess I missed that the first time  |
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1998 Standard - Pearl Sedona Red & Ivory Cream |
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BF
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« Reply #21 on: May 23, 2014, 12:00:51 PM » |
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Try adjusting you preload to a heavier setting if it don't do it solo it seems to me the extra weight may be making the ct rub something under the fender whether it be your nut box mod or something else. That is where I would start?good luck and keep us updated.
No one has addressed this comment. I'm not sure how to adjust the preload (unless that means tightening the pinion bolt?). I had a mechanic "adjust" the preload on a chevy suburban I once owned without asking me. He thought he was doing me a favor. The rear end lasted 500 miles after his "adjustment". Ate the gears right up. So I am a little concerned with this approach. Adjusting the the stiffness of the shocks. If your bike still has the oem tool kit under the seat, there's a tool in there to adjust. No effect on your driveline. Make sure you used the correct replacement rotor for the wheel.
As I understand it, early wheels were marked 1J and used a thinner rotor than the later ones marked 2J.
'Chrisj CMA' is familiar with it.
Possibly this.....if you've changed out wheels/rotors when you did your brake job. However, I'm leaning towards left rear wheel bearing. Does it seem to amplify the noise when you apply the rear brakes? If so, even if there's no play in the wheel, I'd look at the left rear wheel bearing. Carrying the additional weight of a passenger could amplify the left rear wheel bearing noise. Check the videos below. I had zero play in the wheel.....the left rear wheel bearing was shot. Have you lifted the bike and spun the rear wheel to see if you can hear/isolate where the noise might be coming from? Does it sound like this (left rear wheel bearing....noise amplified when rear brake applied)?......
or this?......
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« Last Edit: May 23, 2014, 12:03:13 PM by BF »
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I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to  |
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #22 on: May 23, 2014, 12:14:06 PM » |
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Possibly this.....if you've changed out wheels/rotors when you did your brake job.
However, I'm leaning towards left rear wheel bearing.
Does it seem to amplify the noise when you apply the rear brakes? If so, even if there's no play in the wheel, I'd look at the left rear wheel bearing. Carrying the additional weight of a passenger could amplify the left rear wheel bearing noise.
Check the videos below. I had zero play in the wheel.....the left rear wheel bearing was shot.
Have you lifted the bike and spun the rear wheel to see if you can hear/isolate where the noise might be coming from?
Does it sound like this (left rear wheel bearing....noise amplified when rear brake applied)?......
or this?......
It is very similar to that. I will check it. |
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jimmytee
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« Reply #24 on: May 23, 2014, 03:28:00 PM » |
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Alrighty!!!! I am Excited, and YES I mean EXCITED to report that it was the LEFT SIDE BEARING !!!! !!!! Holy Broken Bearing Batman !!!!  Trying to add an image here, but maybe i need to put the image somewhere and post a link. But it was even missing ball bearings. A BIG/HUGE/MEGA thanks to everyone today. I am replacing bearing and reassembling. I will post my results later.  How many miles on it? Got me scared... ;DI just had my rear wheel off and checked my bearings by hand . They felt fine. Now you have me second guessing .  |
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"Go sell crazy somewhere else,we're all stocked up"
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BF
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« Reply #25 on: May 24, 2014, 08:24:37 AM » |
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Glad you found it F6Rider.
Jimmy.....Mine was toast at about 38000.
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I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to |
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #26 on: May 24, 2014, 08:44:41 AM » |
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 Ok, insert Frustration HERE! Putting everything back together, feeling good about it all.... Then I get the u-joint back in place and when free spinning the rear wheel I am hearing the u-joint kinda bumping against the housing. So I lower the bike onto some supports so I am putting some weight (not full weight) onto the suspension and free spin the rear wheel again and I'm still hearing the u-joint bumping against the housing. Is this normal? Should I continue to assemble and wait until I'm fully assembled and have full weight on it to be worried? It IS fully in place, cause when I put it in gear it won't spin... Anyone? ~Brian~ Updated... Nevermind, wasn't fully adjusted. We're good!
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« Last Edit: May 24, 2014, 09:11:42 AM by F6Rider614 »
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #27 on: May 24, 2014, 10:51:57 AM » |
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What wasn't fully adjusted? Theres no adjustment except for the process of aligning the final drive to the wheel and axle. BTW if the final drive wasn't tight and the right side shock was already on and then you put it down on the ground, well theres no alignment happening like that.
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« Last Edit: May 24, 2014, 01:12:17 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #28 on: May 24, 2014, 02:29:35 PM » |
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I can't understand by your statement if the rear swing arm is hanging free downwards, like no shocks installed.
The drive line should be horizontal when turning the rear wheel.
There shouldn't be any noise of any kind.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #29 on: May 24, 2014, 02:46:02 PM » |
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OK, let's get passed the noise that doesn't exist anymore. lol It was a misunderstood incompleteness on my part. I got another issue that I would like a little advise on. My 205 60 16 is rubbing on my drive shaft. Is there something other than the nut box mod that needs to be done?  ~Brian~ |
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« Last Edit: May 24, 2014, 02:48:30 PM by F6Rider614 »
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Bone
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« Reply #30 on: May 24, 2014, 04:41:03 PM » |
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My first CT barely rubbed but not all the way around the tire. I checked the clearance and had about 1 credit card thickness but occasionally got the rub. Riding solo with the nut cage mod. I increased the air pressure 5# once or twice and that stopped the rub.
I thought maybe hitting a bump made the tire push out the sidewalls wouldn't take much.
My next 2 tires have been GYTT and no rubbing.
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F6Rider614
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« Reply #31 on: May 24, 2014, 07:35:43 PM » |
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Yeah, once again I inaccurately jumped to a conclusion. I hadn't adjusted the air pressure in my shocks after reinstalling them. I'm actually good-to-go.  I tell ya, smoothest ride I've ever experienced on a bike. Comfort level is beyond comparison. Handles my trailer better as well. Two thumbs WAY up on running a CT! 
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #32 on: May 24, 2014, 08:40:24 PM » |
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Yeah, once again I inaccurately jumped to a conclusion. I hadn't adjusted the air pressure in my shocks after reinstalling them. I'm actually good-to-go. I tell ya, smoothest ride I've ever experienced on a bike. Comfort level is beyond comparison. Handles my trailer better as well. Two thumbs WAY up on running a CT! What kind of shocks are you running? |
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