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timk519
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« on: August 03, 2009, 08:11:33 PM » |
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Bike: 2001 I/S with a number of mods
Problem: I'd just left Ft Myers FL for Nokomis when the bike's electrics started acting up. First the cruise control cut out, then the dash lights flashed like it was possessed by "Christine", the tach/speedo meters would go to 0 then back to normal again, before it cut out completely. A bit later all the electrics on the bike died, which killed the engine and resulted in stranding me at the side of the road.
Fortunately, a good samaritan stopped and gave me a boost to charge the battery, and when the battery'd gotten enough juice to run the bike,we disconnected the jumper cables and revved the engine. The voltage did not increase from it's 12.00 volts, but it did show a slight decrease over time. Fortunately, by pulling the headlight fuses and cutting the audio, I was able to ride the bike to my destination in Nikomis FL.
In terms of recent history - it's lasted 5000 miles since I last did any major work on it, and it was just in the shop for an oil change.
So, with a good battery, the bike rides fine, but doesn't last very long.
I'm thinking either the alternator died, or a connection came loose.
Any suggestions on how I can figure out the root cause of the problem?
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« Last Edit: August 03, 2009, 08:13:59 PM by timk519 »
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PatrickDoss
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« Reply #1 on: August 03, 2009, 08:15:31 PM » |
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If the volt meter's not going above 12 volts with the engine at higher rpm, sounds like bad alternator.
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timk519
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« Reply #2 on: August 03, 2009, 08:18:06 PM » |
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That's what I thought too - and I recall reading someone having a similar problem that was caused by a loose connection which kept the alternator from working right.
I don't remember what connection it is though.
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MP
Member
Posts: 5532
1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar
North Dakota
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« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2009, 05:09:19 AM » |
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Check the power lead from the battery to the alternator-hot. And all the other connections to the battery.
MP
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 "Ridin' with Cycho" |
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2009, 05:25:52 AM » |
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There is also a 55A charge fuse beside the row of small fuses that could be blown. It is a solid flat bar with hooks on both ends. Also check that the screws are tight. If you have a volt-ohmeter you can check the fuse and also the output of the alternator. If I remember correctly the alternator output comes in to the top of the fuse mentioned above. You should have around 14V when engine around 3000 rpm. But this sounds like the classic alt. symptoms.
'97 Goldwing Aspencade
Part # is 31100-MT2-015
"The terminal & plastic insulator are different where you connect the alternator battery wire. You have to take off the capacitor that is mounted on the Gold Wing alternator and rotate the front housing to match the holes from the Valkyrie model so that it will fit."
BTW it costs much less than the one on the Valk.
This is the alternator part no. to replace the one on the Valk.
This one is about $100 less expensive than the Valk part.
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Cattman
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« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2009, 05:37:52 AM » |
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It's your alternator, mine did the same thing. You were lucky to get home. THis guy has a good rep for service/exchange. A new one from dealer is $$$$$. http://mysite.verizon.net/resp3jbj/ |
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timk519
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« Reply #6 on: August 04, 2009, 06:49:47 AM » |
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It's your alternator, mine did the same thing. You were lucky to get home. THis guy has a good rep for service/exchange. A new one from dealer is $$$$$. http://mysite.verizon.net/resp3jbj/ I checked the fusable link and ran the engine up to 3K, and didn't see a rise in voltage, so that confirms that the alternator's gone wherever they go when they die. I'm taking the bike to a local dealer this AM to see if something else can be done, and if not, then I'll contact this guy and get a replacement alternator. BTW: I asked the shop how long it would take for them to order one in, and they said 5 days! ???  Thanks for the comments / help everyone!  |
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« Last Edit: August 04, 2009, 06:52:30 AM by timk519 »
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timk519
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« Reply #7 on: August 04, 2009, 09:44:23 AM » |
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Ok - I stopped by South County Motorcycles in Venice FL, and they took a look at the bike and confirmed that the alternator's shot, and didn't charge me for the diagnosis! I've ordered a MARs HO alternator overnight to their location, and hopefully will have it installed and me on the road sometime tomorrow afternoon.  Thanks for the comments and suggestions folks - according to the shop, a new OEM alternator would've been nearly $600 USD, and taken about 5 days to bring in! So you've saved me a pile of time and $$$. |
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« Last Edit: August 04, 2009, 10:12:16 AM by timk519 »
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2009, 05:51:58 PM » |
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I did the goldwing replacement a while back, overnighted from HDL 249. I don't know if you do your own work but the alt replacement is not hard you have to get your mouth just right and stand on one foot . Really it's not hard just have to get it turned right and it'll pop out.
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timk519
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« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2009, 05:58:40 PM » |
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I've gone with the high-output alt from MARS. I'd do the swap myself, but I'm on the road, other considerations stopped me from knowing where I'd be or could work on the bike, hence the reason for having the shop do it. I'll have to try that 'mouth just right and stand on one foot' thing sometime though.  |
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