3fan4life
Member
    
Posts: 6959
Any day that you ride is a good day!
Moneta, VA
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« on: May 31, 2014, 08:13:34 PM » |
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I just picked up another Interstate.
It's an '01 with only 11k miles, the previous owner told me that he has not ridden it in over a year.
Obviously it hasn't been ridden much at all.
It has an obvious miss that gets a little better after it has ran awhile but definitely doesn't go away.
It will die at a red light if I don't keep the rpm's up but restarts easily.
The previous owner stated that he'd been running it in his garage and he had B-12 in the gas.
My initial plan was to run the gas in the tank out and then put in fresh gas with some seafoam.
Now, I'm thinking about draining tha gas instead of running it out.
I'm looking for suggestions about other areas to look at and to see what the general consensus is about what to do for this issue.
Thanks in Advance.
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1 Corinthians 1:18 
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Challenger
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« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2014, 08:26:10 PM » |
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I would set the enriching valve (choke) to run at 1500 RPM. Take a ride around the block, If it runs perfectly and has quick throttle response, I would suspect the slow jets are gummed up. Good luck with your reconnoitering.
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roadmap
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« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2014, 12:55:52 AM » |
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my thoughts are with a carb rebuild. then a electric fuel valve fuel filter with a dan shut off i wouldn't worry about a petcock rebuild. i went through the carbs myself, mam i pulled my hair out trying to figure it out. no matter were talking a simple rebuild compared to a possible vapor lock and then having a complete engine go to sh------t. if it has been sitting that long pour out that old gas it might not hurt a thing but i try to treat my baby like i was giving her a steak dinner everyday. members have offered help.
it is late a cold misty rain starting to fall. took a short cut home i like the long rides through the country side. pulled a to a stop sign hu????? reb it up a little thing thing still missing and not idling right. oh crap this thing died. won't start again. ok just call oh darn i forgot no cell service. miles from town no traffic this late this story happened to me. no shortcuts on repairs. canadian rockies for me coming back from alaska wham yolk goes our thought about changing before the trip had 110000 miles on her now you get the picture. sorry just got bored at 3:00 am light misty rain out decide to stay home. lol just rebuild the carbs simple repair or one off the list
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salty1
Member
    
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2014, 04:43:12 AM » |
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I would set the enriching valve (choke) to run at 1500 RPM. Take a ride around the block, If it runs perfectly and has quick throttle response, I would suspect the slow jets are gummed up. Good luck with your reconnoitering.
 might also install new plugs . I just got an Interstate with 7049 miles.  It didn't run very well either at first , however the more I ran it the better it's performance. Good luck!
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A  
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Patrick
Member
    
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2014, 05:14:13 AM » |
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I'd agree with getting rid of the old fuel and starting with new [non-ethanol if available] along with a heavy dose of cleaner [I like Sea-foam].
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #5 on: June 01, 2014, 06:56:20 AM » |
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I've always considered a "skip" and/or a "miss" as being two completely different symptoms.
Always felt a "skip" is most likely a fuel issue while a "miss" more to being ignition related.
So, I would also add to what Patrick says by suggesting replacing the spark plugs since they
are a relatively inexpensive item and by doing so will remove that equation from the mix.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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3fan4life
Member
    
Posts: 6959
Any day that you ride is a good day!
Moneta, VA
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« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2014, 08:22:04 PM » |
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Update:
Drained the old fuel and filled her up with new gas and 1/2 can of Seafoam.
Ran that out on the BRP yesterday.
Topped back off and added the other 1/2 can of Seafoam.
Running better but not great.
Changed the plugs tonight, again a slight improvement but not there yet.
Looking at the plugs (will post pics tomorrow night) I'm pretty sure that the #4 cylinder is the most affected one.
My question is:
Has anyone here ever removed the float bowls and removed and cleaned the jets without removing the carbs from the bike ?
It looks do able but iffy.
I'm open to suggestions about the best way to tackle this, it does look like the jets are the problem.
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1 Corinthians 1:18 
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indybobm
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« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2014, 05:55:03 AM » |
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If Seafoam helped, I would try some Chemtool B12. Walmart has it for less than $4 a can. 1/2 half can to a full tank. Ride the entire tank out if possible. Keep the revs low and try to cycle between 1500 and 3000 rpms.
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So many roads, so little time VRCC # 5258
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Attic Rat
Member
    
Posts: 446
VRCC # 1962
Tulsa, OK
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« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2014, 05:59:31 AM » |
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If it engine runs fine above 3,000 rpm but not below then the slow jets are clogged. It would be really rare to see a main jet clogged. Was there any rust in the tank ? Try the berrymans it will work better than the sea foam.
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« Last Edit: June 03, 2014, 06:01:08 AM by Attic Rat »
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The Attic Rat Performance Works
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2014, 07:51:01 AM » |
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Continue the gas treatment program.
Jets are changeable without removing the carburetors, the difficulty is getting
the float bowl screws out. They are a special soft screw. Removing the intake
risers make the job easier.
Any crud found will not be rust, although it is red. It is organic and composed
of petroleum resistant algae and fungus. Gas treatment is the way to go with this.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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3fan4life
Member
    
Posts: 6959
Any day that you ride is a good day!
Moneta, VA
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« Reply #10 on: July 13, 2014, 08:30:29 AM » |
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UPDATE:
I cleaned the jets and put everything back together.
The bike still had issues.
Tore into the carbs last weekend and did a thorough cleaning of everything and replaced the old jets with new ones and replaced the fuel screen.
I followed the videos that someone suggested and found them to be very helpful. I didn't remove the set screws as suggested in the videos. I didn't want to cut into the carbs to make a slot in the screws.
I got in a few miles yesterday and she runs great.
There is rust in the tank, I'm hoping that the new screen will prevent any loose rust from getting to the carbs themselves.
I'm using fuel treatment pretty hard right now and plan on keeping additives in the tank for the next thousand miles or so. The carbs were pretty gummed up so I figure that the continued use of cleaning additives is a good idea.
I'm also hoping that it will help with the rust that was in the tank.
If anyone knows of an additive that will specifically target the rust, I'm ALL EARS.
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1 Corinthians 1:18 
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Attic Rat
Member
    
Posts: 446
VRCC # 1962
Tulsa, OK
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« Reply #11 on: July 13, 2014, 10:07:16 AM » |
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That rust will be right back in those carbs again. It never fails. You need to remove the tank and clean it really well and then coat it.
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The Attic Rat Performance Works
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #12 on: July 13, 2014, 10:37:22 AM » |
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Calling it rust is a misnomer.
It may look like rust but it's not.
It is gasoline tolerant algae and fungus
that grows in the ethanol+water that is
mixed in your ethanol enriched gasoline.
That's what is crudding up the carburetors
and depositing in the tank.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Paxton
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« Reply #13 on: July 13, 2014, 11:09:41 AM » |
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"You need to remove the tank and clean it really well and then coat it." ============================================ +1 
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J. Paxton Gomez
1966 First year Bronco... 302 CI V8 1975 First year Chrysler Cordoba... 360 CI V8 1978 Honda 750F / Cafe Racer 2000 GL1500CY Fast-Black Standard Solo Rider
So Cal... 91205
"Four wheels move the body; two wheels move the soul."
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signart
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« Reply #14 on: July 13, 2014, 06:02:22 PM » |
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Those "set" screws you didn't remove might have that red silty stuff on them and so will the ends of the needles, if it is in your tank. You need to remove those and your tank and clean them. I think you can clean the tank without coating, I too don't think it is rust. That stuff likes to congregate around the petcock opening, and elsewhere in the bottom of the tank. All the wallet cleaner in the world will not remove it, it will not dissolve it or move the red stuff that has attached itself to the parts.
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« Last Edit: July 14, 2014, 06:12:12 AM by signart »
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2014, 06:35:23 AM » |
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The best cleaner for that "crud" is:
DRAINO or OVEN CLEANER
It's organic, the crud is!
Need to attack it with an organic cleaner.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #16 on: July 14, 2014, 06:41:47 AM » |
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Is it too late for this to help? 
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