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Author Topic: Timing belt change  (Read 18716 times)
Ferris Leets
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Catskill Mountains, N.Y.


« on: August 04, 2009, 01:24:14 PM »

I am going to be doing my timing belts tonight.  Anything that is not in the book that I need to watch out for?
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2009, 02:21:22 PM »

Just remember to get all the timing marks lined up properly, or you will bend some valves.

Most stealer's charge from $663 to $1k, per screwed up head.

So, if ya don't know what you are doing, find someone who does to assist and lead you thought it.

That 1st one can be deadly.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2009, 02:22:56 PM »

Yes.....a couple things:

1.  Its best to remove the timing cover bolts while the engine is warm...less chance of snapping one off

2.  Remove all six spark plugs before you start messing with the belts

3.  On some Valkyries the inboard bolt on the throttle side tensioner mount goes into oil, so that bolt may need a good sealant applied to it.......You will know because you will get a  drip of oil whenever you remove that bolt if this applies to your bike

Lastly the tension is best determined by the springs on the tensioners.  If you go by the book most of us ended up with belts a tad too tight, then they squeal.......

Other than that, just follow the book and be careful nothing turns without the belts properly attached.
« Last Edit: August 04, 2009, 02:25:10 PM by Chrisj CMA CR3M » Logged
Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2009, 03:51:31 PM »

I like to set the tension slightly looser[3/8"] than recommended.. It makes/keeps them a bit quieter and these engines stretch like crazy as they warm up.. Set them cold and roll the engine over by hand and recheck the tension at a couple places[it'll change] and make sure the timing marks are lined up correctly and that the engine turns freely by hand before starting/firing it up.. This is not a clearance engine.. Easy job..
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sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2009, 04:00:23 PM »

Ferris: Why are you changing the belts? Do you have close to 100K on the bike? Honda says to "check" them at 100K. I replaced mine at 93K as I recall and there was nothing wrong with them. Just check the belt tension and button it back up unless it's got lots of miles on her.
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Ferris Leets
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Catskill Mountains, N.Y.


« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2009, 04:32:53 PM »

My understanding is the reccomended change interval is 5 years or 50k.  This bike is 10 years old with 33k.  I have no history on it so I am going to look in there anyway.  while I am that far I am going to change them and not have to think about them for another 50k.
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MP
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1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #6 on: August 04, 2009, 04:47:01 PM »

Well, the book says "check them at 100,000".
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: August 04, 2009, 07:29:35 PM »

My understanding is the reccomended change interval is 5 years or 50k.  This bike is 10 years old with 33k.  I have no history on it so I am going to look in there anyway.  while I am that far I am going to change them and not have to think about them for another 50k.

Only you can make that decision.  let us know how it goes
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woefman
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Arizona


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« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2009, 11:26:40 PM »

Well, the book says "check them at 100,000".

Ditto that I checked my Buddies before he went to Colorado Last Year.

He thought the same thing change @ 100k

Book Said Check Not Replace.

So is it an interference engine or not ? 

Mixed reviews so far .....
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roboto65
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Conroe,TX


« Reply #9 on: August 05, 2009, 04:19:36 AM »

Now mind you I have not checked mine 12000 miles on a 99 Interstate but we have a expire date on tires of 6 years I think and we do not trust the tire after that but 10 years age on a timing belt and we go with the 100,000 miles is it special rubber or something.  Just a thought  crazy2
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Robert
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S Florida


« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2009, 04:46:03 AM »

First the engine is a interference engine dont believe me lookup all who bent valves playing with the cams and belts. Next do pull the plugs, familiarize your self with the timing marks and if you feel more comfortable make marks for yourself that will give a indication where the belt was but use the factory marks as a final alignment. Belts do dry out over time so by putting new belts on they will be quieter and there will be less worry about breaking. After you align the new belts and have the tensioner loose push the tensioner tighter and then let it fall back to its own tension. This takes up all the slack and allows the tensioner to keep the proper tension. These belts dont have much tension on them so I would not recommend loosening them from their correctly tensioned position. Job is easy and not expensive so why play with the belts? It took all of a 45 minutes for me to do mine and the belt cost was 65 for both belts you would replace fan belts on a car so why not the timing belt on our beloved Valks? The results with mine were a slightly better running engine and quieter too. The oils in the belts help keep the belt quiet I had some rubber on the tensioner with the old belts that was a sign that they were starting to go bad. I only had 40k miles and its a 01.
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FLATSIX
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Heist o/d Berg BELGIUM


« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2009, 09:32:14 AM »

Tomorrow I also will get 2 new timing belts - with all that talking about changing them I got frightened too (12 years old belts...)

So to change them - first mark the previous belts - take off the tensiors - then take of the 2 ignition pulse generators. Then I can take off the old belts and put new ones on them - reinstall it all in reverse order.

AM I RIGHT ! Cheesy
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standard '97 - european F6C - red & white - 27.000 KM
Bone
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« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2009, 10:04:36 AM »

Next do pull the plugs, (from Robert's post)
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FLATSIX
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Heist o/d Berg BELGIUM


« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2009, 10:37:25 AM »

Why ? Because then again I have to take off my valance covers - don't like to make scratches.... Grin
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standard '97 - european F6C - red & white - 27.000 KM
Udo
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Germany, Krefeld


« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2009, 12:24:09 PM »

Without the spark plugs, you can turn the engine by hand, and feel any resistance, without damaging something. Just in case, the wheels are not in the right positions after the change. Also, without the plugs, ther is no cyl. under compression, so nothing is trying to turn the crank shaft.
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Robert
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S Florida


« Reply #15 on: August 05, 2009, 12:34:56 PM »

The only reason to take out the spark plugs is to make the engine turn easier since it will have no compression. If I remember correctly you may not have to take off the pulse generators. Be sure once you get the belts on to turn the engine over by hand and make sure the timing marks are aligned correctly and there is no problem.
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FLATSIX
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Heist o/d Berg BELGIUM


« Reply #16 on: August 05, 2009, 01:04:42 PM »

O.K. ROBERT, it makes sence , I will take off the valance covers + all spark plugs to be sure that there is nothing that will turn unexpected and damage things.

In the shop manual they speak about taking of the pulse generators to be able to take off the left belt. I will try without taking them off, when not possible then I'll take them away and reinstall.

Thanks for the advices !! cooldude
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standard '97 - european F6C - red & white - 27.000 KM
Ferris Leets
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Catskill Mountains, N.Y.


« Reply #17 on: August 05, 2009, 04:43:04 PM »

Looks to me like I have to remove the radiator covers anyway to get to the screws on the cover so the front plugs are clear also.
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Valker
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Texas Panhandle


« Reply #18 on: August 05, 2009, 05:12:25 PM »

I believe the Gates belt is 275, but I've been wrong before.
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #19 on: August 05, 2009, 05:30:18 PM »

I believe the Gates belt is 275, but I've been wrong before.

well u just busted my bubble didn't u. U are correct, I will re-research this again. The keyboard gremlins got me again.
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Robert
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S Florida


« Reply #20 on: August 05, 2009, 06:36:18 PM »

Timing Belts

Gates # 275

Napa # 250275

Goodyear - #40275

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

All from Jeff Ks generic parts site I did the Napa belt and I think it was for a Goldwing because the box said Honda motorcycle I tried the others but to no success
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Larry
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Northeastern BC, Canada


« Reply #21 on: August 06, 2009, 01:50:42 PM »

I believe the Gates belt is 275, but I've been wrong before.

I suppose you just havn't been wrong before very often!  Smiley
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Valker
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Texas Panhandle


« Reply #22 on: August 06, 2009, 02:43:04 PM »

I believe the Gates belt is 275, but I've been wrong before.

I suppose you just havn't been wrong before very often!  Smiley
My wife says I need a shirt that says "Frequently wrong...but never in doubt". Lips Sealed
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FLATSIX
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Heist o/d Berg BELGIUM


« Reply #23 on: August 08, 2009, 03:07:11 PM »

Voila, the 2 timing belts are changed by Napa # 250275.

The 2 beauties were not nicer the the 2 OEM-belts that I took off - perhaps the dents of the new are a little bit "newer" - in each cas now I am safe, cause  the old were 12 years, but still in good condition (26000 km)

By the way , the 2 ignition pulse generators have to be taken off, otherwhise you can't take of the left belt, not a difficult job. All went well (took also the plugs out for safety)

Thanks for all the good advices of this technical board !  cooldude cooldude cooldude
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Larry
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Northeastern BC, Canada


« Reply #24 on: August 09, 2009, 08:34:42 PM »

Didn't have to take the ignition pulse generators off mine? Just had to loosen the belt tensioners and of course take off the timing wheel.
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Ferris Leets
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Catskill Mountains, N.Y.


« Reply #25 on: August 09, 2009, 08:43:34 PM »

Easier to just take off the sensors, then you don't have to remove the trigger wheel.
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Larry
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Northeastern BC, Canada


« Reply #26 on: August 09, 2009, 11:15:53 PM »

I guess I didn't look that close since I was changing out the TW anyway. Learn something new everyday.  cooldude
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