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Author Topic: Has anyone balanced their carburators ?  (Read 1795 times)
skromfols
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You only go around once

Valley Springs, Calif


« on: August 04, 2009, 05:54:14 PM »

My Valkyrie is my touring bike, but I recently purchased a new Triumph America for just fooling around up here in the foothills.  Since the Triumph comes stock with around 54 hp there's all kinds of modifications for adding a little more power, including balancing the carburators.  I'm just wondering how much of a difference it would make to balance the carburators on my Valkyrie.  I imagine that with 6 carbs at least one or two might be out of line with the others.  Just curious and would like to know if anyone has explored this yet.

Stan
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Stan
Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2009, 06:55:40 PM »

Balancing or syncing the carburetors is fairly easy and a common thing to do.. The valkyrie doesn't require this very often however, its pretty bullet-proof.. You really shouldn't get a real gain in performance unless they are really out of adjustment.. If the engine idles smoothly and accelerates smoothly it probably doesn't need to be done.. There are any number of ways to do this job,, I prefer a single vacuum gauge and a lot of tubing..
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Shockbushing Gary
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« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2009, 09:19:34 PM »

Balancing carbs on a Valk only makes a difference at idle and just above.
Since the throttles are venturi vacuum operated, they are self regulating above idle.
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woefman
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Arizona


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« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2009, 11:01:02 PM »

I was wondering about this stuff as well and I think I might be able to shed some light on it.

I think a common misconception on this is folks might confuse Carb Balance with Idle Mixture.

My Thinking is The Balance is to basically make each carb and cyl  idle the same.

Or a more Broad Analogy would be to sort of make sure the butterflys are open the same amount
for all 6 cyl's  I know this may not be 100 % true but in lamens terms it kinda makes sense and keeps your mind from drifting
to thinking it is a Idle Mixture Adjustment.

if I am wrong please let me know maybe a bunch of us can learn then from this.

SO as I understand it it is like one fellow posted, it basically gives or ensures a smooth idle as long as nothing else is wrong with the bike.
« Last Edit: August 04, 2009, 11:03:58 PM by woefman » Logged

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roboto65
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Conroe,TX


« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2009, 04:35:54 AM »

The only thing syncing does is make sure the throttle butterflys open at the same time now of couse this means the Whole throttle range from Idle to wide open. When you turn the screw to adjust "vachumm" you are opening and closing the butter fly thats it ! 
Now if one is open more than the other it will reach full throttle faster also that means the other will not reach full throttle too . Now really are your carbs far enough off to make a big difference well thats up to you they are generally close enough unless you start taking the carbs all the way apart .
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Allen Rugg                                                       
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1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate
1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 project
Ferris Leets
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Catskill Mountains, N.Y.


« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2009, 07:01:06 AM »

I just got my 99 IS with 30k on it.  Since I had no records and a GOOD mechanic, I had him do a valve, carb, and synchronize adjust on it.  The valves needed adjustment, the carbs were at factory settings so he richened them a little, he said the carb sync was fine.  So I would be inclined to not worry about that.  It seems like it stays good for a long time.
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skromfols
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You only go around once

Valley Springs, Calif


« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2009, 07:22:03 AM »

Thanks to all for the great information.  I'll take your recommendation and not worry about it.
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Stan
Larry
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Northeastern BC, Canada


« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2009, 08:17:43 AM »

Balancing carbs on a Valk only makes a difference at idle and just above.
Since the throttles are venturi vacuum operated, they are self regulating above idle.

So, I'm guessing balancing at 3000RPM's or whatever cruizing speed you use would be fruitless?  Could you expand on that expanation a bit, enquiring minds want to know? coolsmiley
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Patrick
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Largo Florida


« Reply #8 on: August 05, 2009, 08:40:28 AM »

The adjustment screws are stop adjustments and only contact the butterfly or slide depending on the style carburetor.. Once the throttle is moved off idle position turning those screws doesn't mean much..There is no mixture adjustment on these carburetors except for the pilot screws[ 'D' head].. All your doing on a carb sync with these bikes is to look for the same[well, nearly the same] vacuum reading in each intake runner and the adjustment screw is used to to either raise or lower the slide in order to raise or lower that reading..The Honda spec is 1.6 in/hg between cylinders..Thats a lot!.. Its very easy to get them within .5 in/hg [needle width].. I'm surprised that the valves were in need of an adjustment..I guess that depends on what he determines is 'in need'..The valves on these engines don't move around a lot,, they tend to stay put, they are usually never more than a couple thousands off..
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FLATSIX
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Heist o/d Berg BELGIUM


« Reply #9 on: August 05, 2009, 09:16:31 AM »

Once the throttle is moved off idle position turning those screws doesn't mean much

Since I made my 6-columns vac.meter I did the sync. on my bike several times and noticed each time a difference.

Now I synchronize when motor really hot, but before the fan comes up because then the readings bginn to change due to the heat under the tank and I want to have the 6 readings +/- equal when I am driving.

The last thing I do is synchronize at 3000 rpm cruising speed, and yes, the screws mean much when you turn the throttle to 3000 rpm. Once all 6 carbs +/- equal at a steady 3000 rpm (and the fan did come on only once max. - when it does more, then shut off the machine and wat for 10-15 minutes!) then the 6 carbs are well balanced and you should hear and feel the difference when you make a tesride - the motor sits max. on the throttle, more power at low rpm's, motor is more souple.

Tomorrow I will receive the right pilotscrew-instrument, then I will be able to adjust the pilot screw at a running hot motor - turn counterclokwhise till max.rpm is obtained, this for al 6, then the final and last carbs syncro, and then the machine must be TOP.

I'll let ou know the result !

BUT, DO THE CARB SYNCRO WITH A 6 GAUGES MEASURING INSTRUMENT AT A HOT MOTOR - you will feel the difference!!!

Anyway, that is my experience... angel
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Ferris Leets
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Catskill Mountains, N.Y.


« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2009, 12:55:09 PM »

Patrick,
The mech. did not say they were way out.  Just that they needed adjust.  That is what I had asked him to do.  I doubt that they have been touched in the 30k/10years.  Now I know where I am starting from.  Good carb adjustments, good valve adjustments, good plugs, new K&N air filter, fresh oil, and new belts.  Next is to change all brake fluids.
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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2009, 01:39:11 PM »

OK Ferris,, that sounds right.. The valves should be looked at every now and again.. If the engine idles smoothly and accelerates smoothly with just a light touch on the throttle then the carburetor sync is fine..The pilots were mentioned, and if the bike has never been touched they should be at about 1.75 turns out.Setting them 2.25 turns helps but if your not having any troubles it won't hurt to leave them alone..
As for settings the pilots, I've burnt my fat fingers way too many times setting them the 'correct' way with results no better than setting them as stated..
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