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Author Topic: rebuilding final drive with goldwing parts  (Read 1275 times)
FryeVRCCDS0067
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Brazil, IN


« on: June 08, 2014, 09:00:48 AM »

I've finally got started rebuilding my old final drive using goldwing splines from another drive as has been outlined here before. I've got the ring gears with splines still pressed in and large bearings still attached sitting on the work bench from my old Valk hub and the goldwing hub.

I know I'm blind but except for the worn splines I don't see the difference between them. Both gears have 34 teeth, what is the difference between them?

Thanks,
Mike
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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Brazil, IN


« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2014, 10:27:13 AM »

Never mind I guess. As Mike found in April, they may look the same but the (teeth I think) rub somewhere when you place the entire spline/gear/bearing assembly from the wing in the Valk hub.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,48990.msg470337.html#msg470337

Guess that would have been too easy.  Grin
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice.
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-- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964
indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2014, 02:41:58 PM »

When I rebuilt one of my Valk Rears, I could put the GW ring gear, bearing assembly in the valk rearend just to see what would happen and it rotated fine. Non problem. I did not use it that way, I pressed out the splines and swapped them. The ring gears are virtually identical. The GW ring gear might have required a different shim between the big bearing and the ring gear. There is also a 'Gear Stopper Pin' item # 15 on the fische that goes on the Gear Case Cover, item #8. It could have been rubbing if the cover was on. At any rate, you cannt use the GW ring gear because it would have a different wear pattern and would not 'mesh' properly with the pinion gear. Would probably whine like a banshee.
« Last Edit: June 08, 2014, 02:43:48 PM by indybobm » Logged

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FryeVRCCDS0067
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Posts: 4338


Brazil, IN


« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2014, 03:36:51 PM »

When I rebuilt one of my Valk Rears, I could put the GW ring gear, bearing assembly in the valk rearend just to see what would happen and it rotated fine. Non problem. I did not use it that way, I pressed out the splines and swapped them. The ring gears are virtually identical. The GW ring gear might have required a different shim between the big bearing and the ring gear. There is also a 'Gear Stopper Pin' item # 15 on the fische that goes on the Gear Case Cover, item #8. It could have been rubbing if the cover was on. At any rate, you cannt use the GW ring gear because it would have a different wear pattern and would not 'mesh' properly with the pinion gear. Would probably whine like a banshee.

I'm whining like a banshee myself right now myself.  Grin

Both ring gears and bearings pressed off the spine shafts just fine. When pressing the goldwing splineshaft into the valk ring gear I heard a "ting" just as it seated. Had to use a lighted magnifier to see it but the bevel gear has a hairline crack now where the splines pass into it.

I've got a guy who does a lot of tig work for local industry and does my firearms tig work for me but I'm just not sure about having this crack tigged up. He might be against doing it anyway.

Guess I'll look for another valk hub on e bay with worn out splines and rebuild it instead of rebuilding my old one.

I retrospect, I realize what probably caused it, it was my own press technique. I pressed the bearing on first, intentionally pushing it a little deep. My plan was that the bevel gear would seat against the bearing and push it the last fraction of an inch as it seated on the shoulder of the shaft. Evidently that was a little too much for the bevel gear.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice.
And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.''
-- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964
indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2014, 04:31:59 PM »

That is a shame. Next time you might try heating the ring gear a little and putting the hub in the freezer. This would make it take less pressure to push it in. Also, make sure both items are super clean and the ring gear is level and the hub is pushed in straight. In case anyone is wondering, the GW pinion gear cannot be used in the Valk housing because the bearing snout (technical term) on the gear end of the pinion gear is smaller then the one on theValk.
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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Brazil, IN


« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2014, 05:29:36 PM »

That is a shame. Next time you might try heating the ring gear a little and putting the hub in the freezer. This would make it take less pressure to push it in. Also, make sure both items are super clean and the ring gear is level and the hub is pushed in straight. In case anyone is wondering, the GW pinion gear cannot be used in the Valk housing because the bearing snout (technical term) on the gear end of the pinion gear is smaller then the one on theValk.

Kinda hard to tell with the shaft/ring gear assembled but it looks like the GW ring gear's teeth would set 0.023" deeper in the housing. Sure wish that press wasn't 20 miles away in another shop.

I thought about heating the gear and freezing the shaft, right after I heard that "tink".  Embarrassed Hasn't happened to anyone else though so chances are if I hadn't pushed the bearing and gear together that last little bit all would have been good.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice.
And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.''
-- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964
FryeVRCCDS0067
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Posts: 4338


Brazil, IN


« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2014, 05:42:55 PM »

Maybe I'm wrong but I think if a guy had a shim 0.023" thick with a 2.56" OD and 2.057" ID it would let a person find out if there are any other differences between the ring gears. And, how important those wear patterns are.

A guy would have to have a GW and Valk ring gear on the bench and off the splines to measure the difference directly though.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice.
And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.''
-- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964
pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2014, 07:42:20 AM »

Your best bet is really to forget about using the GW ring gear and stick with using the splines only. If you use your pinion and your ring gear, they are already seated and worn to fit one another, and the chances are very good that you will have the proper gear backlash by using the original Valkyrie spacer for the ring gear.  

I really don't understand how you pressed the bearing on before you pressed the splines into the ringgear..?? , but if it truly did crack, it cannot be used again,, there is no way to fix it. The way I do it is to have the ring gear seated on aluminum blocks on the arbor plates of the press, and press in the splines until seated, using an aluminum block between the splines and press...  

I have about 9K miles on a final that I replaced the splines with a GW item,, no problems.

You may want to press the splines back out of the Valk ring gear and inspect it,, I find it a bit hard to believe that it actually cracked,, it would have to crack from the center all the way to the perimeter or the gear, and it is a substantial piece of steel.
« Last Edit: June 09, 2014, 08:06:56 AM by pancho » Logged

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indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2014, 09:56:10 AM »

Another good thing to do is to check the backlash BEFORE you disassemble the Valk final drive. After replaced the spline hub and re-assembly, the backlash should be the same as it was before.
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