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Author Topic: New owner, performance up grade questions, cams, head work, exhaust  (Read 4052 times)
67blkbrd
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Posts: 36


« Reply #40 on: July 05, 2014, 11:58:08 AM »

Quote
...my "butt dyno"...  Is it as accurate as a Dyno? no but as you know the accuracy of Dyno's and flow benches are relative and should be used as a tool more so than the end all be all that the track is.
You had me right up to there.   Roll Eyes

I can respect that. But i have my reasons for having this opinion, regardless of E.T. the mph will always show a loss or gain in power and there are calculations to convert MPH, weight, gear into HP/torque figures. I go by these and they have worked for me especially when all of the MPH points in a pass are looked at and scrutinized. It really makes no sense to me to pay for a day of tuning on a dyno when I will still need at least another 1/2 a day at the track to dial in the tune for real world conditions when I can get it all done in a 1/2 to full day of TnT. Now on the other hand, there is no better way to get a torque converter stall set to the sweet spot than a couple runs on a dyno to give your converter builder the HP and TQ numbers he needs to work with along with gear, wight, power adder, tire type and size, trans brake or foot brake & & & &
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67blkbrd
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Posts: 36


« Reply #41 on: July 05, 2014, 12:07:37 PM »

the front two carb leanness is from how the front carb bowls receive fuel which is from the center carb bowls. the other carbs have a direct path from the tank.
per www.factorypro.com and as a result of their dyno tuning for their jet kit, they recommend to be slightly richer for the needles on the front two carbs.
stock air box they also use different main jets for the front two.
before my air box mods and using their adjustable needles I used an extra washer for the front stock needles. it makes a difference with how the bike runs. the plugs always look different for me, going to different temp plugs is a proven tuning trick, and usually is due to how the heads cool, I know my small block 340 is know for that on the rear two cylinders.
the valk tech manual pg 6-1 the cooling pattern shows that the coolant from the rad enters btwn the front two cylinders and exits to the rad from the rear cylinders right side and from the front two cylinders left side. my plugs insulators are always different, one of the reasons I use www.evanscooling.com



This all makes good sense but I wonder of the bike equipped with a belly tank and electric fuel pump still have a lean issue on the front two if it is due to the fuel inlet location. Though i squared up the jetting I failed to remove the shims I have under the front two needles and I think they will stay until I buy a set of adjustable needles. The air box thing is some thing I am a little hesitant to fart around with as of yet. Even though I have yet to free up a air box, air cleaner and not have a positive affect on performance when it is combined with proper jetting. It is strange how much power some manufacturers leave on the table to quiet intake noise. So I'll do some more homework and probably pick up another complete air box before I undergo mucking with the air box. Thanks for your reply
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #42 on: July 05, 2014, 05:10:07 PM »

still gravity fed from the tank to the carbs.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
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