I changed my belts last week at 110k on the clock. The OEM belts showed no wear or stretching. I replaced them with Hondaline belts I had bought some time ago for when it was time.
You're going to need a pull scale to set the tension. I found a Timney analog trigger scale works perfectly. (I don't recall if I got mine from cheaperthandirt.com or midwayusa.com.) The weight in the manual equates to 4.4# IIRC. You pull to that wt in the middle of the span while measuring the deflection. Be sure you don't get the timing marks out of alignment. It's easy to get it off by one tooth, particularly on the rt side (at least for me). It's an interference engine, meaning if the valves are out of sync they may occupy the same space as the pistons, grenading the engine. You do need the manual. FYI.
You also need red Loctite for the bolt threads - one of the few places where it's important they don't loosen. You may have noticed Honda rarely uses thread locker and I don't recall any lock or star washers except on the exhaust tips - where heat and corrosion will "lock" them anyway. Not even on the main ground connection to the engine block, which is an American industry standard when making electrical connections to aluminum (I can't quote the requirement spec, but I'm sure some can - particularly aircraft mechanics. I was once an aircraft weapons mechanic in a previous life.) There may be other exceptions but I'm not recalling them.
