Help...Valk doesn't start

[Dano]

Hi Guys,

Need a little help.

I have a 97 Valk since new in 97 with 48K miles and when I turned the key this spring...no power to anything.  Always put the bike on a battery charger after riding and through the winter.  Replaced the 3 year old battery (first thing I usually do)...still no power.  Checked all the fuses including the 30A and 55A mains.  They all look fine...no cracks or brakes.

She's always ran and started fine for me all these years until now.

Any ideas on what to check next?  I have some basic mechanical skills and have the shop manual.

After the battery change, I thought for sure it was the main fuse(s).  I'll probably pick up a 30A and change that out just to see.

Thanks ahead,
Dano

[The emperor has no clothes]

Maybe the starter button needs a cleaning.

[Michvalk]

Battery cables clean? (Both Ends) Ground cable on the motor end known to corrode. Start button/kill switch. Places to start

[Gryphon Rider]

Likely culprits:
1. Starter button. Look up starter button maintenance in Shop Talk.
2. Starter relay or its connector (behind the right side cover).
3. Kill switch, clutch switch, tip-over switch, side stand switch, ignition (key) switch.
4. Various electrical connections in the battery/starter circuit.

[R J]

Am I understanding your post.

You did or have replaced the battery right after this.

Next step is clean the starter button and make sure it is in good operating order.
Like no bent metal springs and or these same items melted into the switch.

After that check all the cable ends, even the ones ya just installed on the new battery, BOTH ends.

If that proves to be A ok, toggle the kill switch.

Does the head light come on when ya turn the key on?

[Dano]

Thanks for the replies.

I replaced old battery with a new one as a first step to solve this problem.

When I turn the key on, I have no lights, no dash lights and no ability to start.  I'm not sure the starter is powered at this point.

Cleaned the battery cables battery side (have to trace to engine side) - not sure where that location is.
Toggled the kill switch
Cleaned the wiggled the side stand switch
Lots of other switches to check

Thanks again

[indybobm]

I turned the key this spring...no power to anything. 

Sounds like something more than the start switch or kill switch.

It is easy enough to swap in a different ignition switch.

[Gryphon Rider]

Get out your test light and trace power to/from the ignition switch.

[R J]

Get out your test light and trace power to/from the ignition switch.

I, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th GR's suggestion.........

Just for sheet and grins, try jumping your bike off of a NON-running car/truck.

                                            OR

take your meter and take a reading of the new battery........

If battery has at least a 12.3 reading it has juice, not enought to start the old girl however.   It should at least give ya lights.     If it reads good, then start testing things from the battery out.    When ya hit a NO reading place. then you have a break in the wire, fuse of something out of order from there to the last good reading you had.

[Brian]

If you have over 12 volts on the battery you could try jumping out the starter relay. This is under the right side cover under a rubber protector. A flat blade screw can be used by inserting it between the two heavy wire connectors and twisting the blade to make contact between them. According to the wiring diagram this should activate the starter motor regardless on the main fuse condition. I have had to do this on my scooter when the start button crapped out but I had the ignition switch on. It appears by the wiring diagram the starter is tied directly to the battery with no main fuse in the circuit. I have not tried this with the key switch in the off position.

FYI, I'd wear a pair of safety glasses to do this just in case.

I am sure others will respond to this suggestion. If you don't have a shop manual it may be a good time to invest in one. The first time you fix something on your own it is paid for.

Good luck.

[eric in md]

no to be funny did you charge your new battery?  make sure  battery has power? kill switched off?

[Dano]

I put the battery on a Battery Tender trickle charger for a couple days before the install.

I'll try to meter some switches and battery again.

Jumping from another vehicle also.

Thanks again

[HayHauler]

Just make sure the other vehicle is NOT running and you will be fine.

Hay 
Jimmyt

[R J]

I put the battery on a Battery Tender trickle charger for a couple days before the install.

I'll try to meter some switches and battery again.

Jumping from another vehicle also.

Thanks again

If the battery was almost dead when you put the Battery Tender on it, no way did it get charged correctly.

I don't remember the exact volts it has to have to trip the Battery Tender, you are just setting there really doing nothing except running up your electric bill.

It is best to just use a regualar 2 or 3 amp charger to do the job.

OR.

You can start it on the 3 amp for at least 12 hours and then aswitch it to the Battery Tender to get a full charge.

Don't bother saying it had all the lights on correctly.    You will be correct, all lights work as designed, but it still will not charge the battery.    Trust me, I have gone thourgh this crap with the Battery Tender people till they explained it in my language.

[Dano]

Brian and helpers,

I tried you're suggestion of using a screw driver on the stater relay with the key on.  The starter kicked over although the bike didn't start up yet.

What does this mean?  Bad starter relay?  Main 30A fuse?

Thanks

[fudgie]

Charge the batt like rj said. Trickle wont work.

[indybobm]

Still does not explain why he has no dash lights or 'any' indication of voltage with the ignition switch on. Power is always at the starter solenoid, so it will spin the motor when bypassed . Problem seems to be  power is either not getting to the ignition switch or not getting through it.  Time to check voltage at the switch. Maybe as simple as disconnecting the ignition switch connector and cleaning the connector.

[Gryphon Rider]

Yup.  Fully charge the battery with a CHARGER, not a maintainer.  If some lights work but not others, or you have some lights but the starter won't spin the engine, skip to the next paragraph.  Assuming nothing works with the key on, get out your service manual's wiring diagram and start tracing power with a test light.  First, you should have power at the red wire at the ignition switch, but not the others.  Turn on the key, and the other wires at the switch should be hot.  They all go to the fuse block, so you can start checking this there by pulling the six fuses and testing for power on the hot side of each fuse.  If any don't have power, test the other (not red) wires at the ignition switch to see if it's a wiring problem.  If some circuits have power and others don't, or if none have power, even at the ignition switch, then you've isolated the problem at the switch.

Do the Start Button Repair explained on the Shop Talk page.

If none of this helps, post exactly what you did and what your results were here, and we'll continue troubleshooting.

[Dano]

 I put the Valk on a 6/2 charger with 2A, not the trickle charger.  I check it again tomorrow

I never prepped a battery myself.  Normally I had a local motorcycle dealer perform then prep.  I thought the trickle charge was the way.  I stand corrected.

I let you know the outcome.

Thanks,
Dano

[Brian]

Dano,
I see that you are original owner and you have a shop manual. Do you own a digital or analog multimeter? The Clymer shop manual gives some simple instructions on how to use this testing tool. You can pick up one these up at any home and hardware or auto parts store. Not to be a smart butt here, but knowing your voltage at the battery is really the starting point to help you. A few test jumper wires with insulated alligator clips helps in trouble shooting as one can be used to ground the one meter test lead while you go thru the circuit.

Was the bike working fine before you replaced the 3 year old battery. The 3 year old battery should still be good. Have you tried going back to that battery if it was doing the job before. It never hurts to go back to the beginning when trouble shooting electrical systems. Your charger should a meter on it that will tell ya what the battery voltage is before you start the charging timer.

Keep us posted. Good luck.

[Dano]

Finally!

Had a corroded male plug post on the starter relay.  Cleaned it up and we're back in business.  Never thought that would cause the no power to anything issue.

Thanks again to all that helped,
Dano

[nogrey]

Finally!

Had a corroded male plug post on the starter relay.  Cleaned it up and we're back in business.  Never thought that would cause the no power to anything issue.

Thanks again to all that helped,
Dano

AWESOME! LOVE THIS BOARD! IF ONLY WE COULD ALL WRENCH TOGETHER!