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Valktex
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« on: July 08, 2014, 01:38:17 PM » |
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I have a 1998 Valkyrie and I was riding it this weekend and it QUIT. Was running perfectly fine. No problems and when it quit it lost all electrical power. No horn. No lights. No starter. Nothing. I am not much of a bike mechanic. The local Honda dealer told me it was likely the battery. I didn't think it was but since the battery was several years old I replaced it anyhow. Still have NO electrical. Can anyone steer me in the right direction please? Thanks!
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KG
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« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2014, 02:16:30 PM » |
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check neg battery cable where it connects to the frame.
check fusable link under right side cover looks like a metal strip that connects 2 screws under a plastic cover. there should be a spare in a slot in the cover.
check fuses and the relay plug under the right side cover make sure its not discolored or melted.
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What we do all have is a limited number of days to devote to whatever we love in this life. Not all the same number of days but all have limited days....Willow
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2014, 03:09:08 PM » |
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I agree with KG, except you should have lights with a good battery and a blown 55A main fuse B. If you have a new fully charged battery and no lights or any electrical, the most likely culprit is the starter relay connector and 30A main fuse B behind the right side cover. Next would be the battery negative cable at the other end. Next would be wiring to the ignition switch or the switch itself.
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Bugslayer
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« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2014, 03:44:44 PM » |
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I have a 1998 Valkyrie and I was riding it this weekend and it QUIT. Was running perfectly fine. No problems and when it quit it lost all electrical power. No horn. No lights. No starter. Nothing. I am not much of a bike mechanic. The local Honda dealer told me it was likely the battery. I didn't think it was but since the battery was several years old I replaced it anyhow. Still have NO electrical. Can anyone steer me in the right direction please? Thanks!
I've had a battery go from fully functional to ZERO power in the middle of a road trip. I had stopped for gas. When I tried to restart, there was nothing..... Turned out to be my battery. |
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nogrey
Member
Posts: 939
Live every day as if it were your last
Nampa, Idaho
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« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2014, 07:41:13 PM » |
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I'm going to go with the starter switch. They are notorious on the standards and tourers for going bad. The current draw from the lights and the starter take their toll on the switch. Unlike the interstate model, where there is a relay in the lamp circuit to prevent this. Many times, you can fix the switch just by cleaning the contacts. Let us know so we can keep helping.
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« Last Edit: July 09, 2014, 07:23:57 AM by nogrey »
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15223
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2014, 08:07:41 PM » |
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I'm going to go with the ignition switch. They are notorious on the standards and tourers for going bad. The current draw from the lights and the starter take their toll on the switch. Unlike the interstate model, where there is a relay in the lamp circuit to prevent this. Many times, you can fix the switch just by cleaning the contacts. Let us know so we can keep helping.
You don't mean the "ignition switch" but most likely the start button/switch...judging by the description that followed. I don't feel that's his problem, but re. the start button you can install a relay in the headlight bucket to accomplish the same protection as the I/S. It removes the majority of current from the start button, down to a fraction of an amp. |
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garyheskett All 49 x 3 st.louis
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2014, 07:20:38 AM » |
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There is a starter relay "relay" that is attached in front of the battery held on by a rubber boot with a slit in the boot that attaches to a metal "arm". One time I had an air horn on the Valk and put the compressor in front of the battery in that "space" that is there. I must have knocked off the relay and it fell down by the swingarm. Over time it got wet and as I was driving down the road, it quit like you turned the key off. The bike would not do anything, no lights, wouldn't start, etc. Checked fuses, starter relay, start switch, clutch switch, kickstand switch, finally found the relay down by the swingarm. Took it off and water came out. Went to the auto parts store, got a relay (was way cheaper than Honda's part), put it on, all was back to normal. I zip tied it up back up in the general area. About a year later, it quit again. I looked for the relay, it had slipped off the zip tie, and fell down on the swingarm again. Full of water again. Auto parts store gave me a new relay for free (warranty) and put it in, bike fired right up. Double zip tied it this time.
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nogrey
Member
Posts: 939
Live every day as if it were your last
Nampa, Idaho
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« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2014, 07:26:36 AM » |
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I'm going to go with the ignition switch. They are notorious on the standards and tourers for going bad. The current draw from the lights and the starter take their toll on the switch. Unlike the interstate model, where there is a relay in the lamp circuit to prevent this. Many times, you can fix the switch just by cleaning the contacts. Let us know so we can keep helping.
You don't mean the "ignition switch" but most likely the start button/switch...judging by the description that followed. I don't feel that's his problem, but re. the start button you can install a relay in the headlight bucket to accomplish the same protection as the I/S. It removes the majority of current from the start button, down to a fraction of an amp. Yes, you are correct. I meant starter switch (and corrected the statement above). It seems to me I recall that no lights, no start, nada was one of the symptoms of bad start switch as it controls several electrical circuits through the contacts. I need to do the relay mod you're talking about. Seems like a good idea. I need to research that a little more. Thanks |
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Dodis
Member
Posts: 251
'98 Blue & Cream
Texas City, TX
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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2014, 09:44:35 AM » |
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I'll second testing the battery. Mine died TWICE. The second was only 2 years old. Got on, turned on the key, got all the requisite lights. Touched the starter button and all went black, nothing.  Being out and about both times, I tested them with the hi-tech helmet lock (cable) across the battery terminals, just a quick touch. Nothing. At least the second time I was at Wal-mart so I didn't have to bum a ride to get a battery... |
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VRCC# 27132
mr_dodis(a)yahoo.com
DS#513 GY-TT 205/60 (still waiting for my cookie!)
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Valktex
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« Reply #9 on: August 08, 2014, 06:43:36 AM » |
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To all. Thanks for your help. It turned out to be a 30amp fuse that was not with the other fuses. It was hidden under a boot with a plug in behind the other fuses. So, all is well now.....extra fuses on bike now too! THANKS to all for their help and advice! Ride safe!
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #10 on: August 08, 2014, 07:46:54 AM » |
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To all. Thanks for your help. It turned out to be a 30amp fuse that was not with the other fuses. It was hidden under a boot with a plug in behind the other fuses. So, all is well now.....extra fuses on bike now too! THANKS to all for their help and advice! Ride safe!
I hope it's just a faulty fuse. Otherwise, the short that caused the first one to blow will cause your new one to blow, then you have some troubleshooting to do. |
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