What is the best weight oil for a Valk? Thanks

[Whipitnow]

TTTTTTTTTTTTT

[Ricky-D]

You'll find that listed under:

 "DS - What's best - CT or MT"

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[ricoman]

do a search for "oil"
there's more opinions than hairs on my head!!
I use Repsol 10W-40, 4-T, supposed to be good for any bike with a wet clutch.
The search results will seem like you entered a war zone-not to worry-most have strong opinions on what to use.
Reality-probably no one is really wrong.

[R J]

I use Mobil 1 (auto oil) in the 10-40W or 20-50W.

242,000 miles, no problems.

Now go do the search for oil and make yourself comfortable.

You will be there for awhile.

[blackcat]

I USE THE LUCAS 20W-50 SYNTHETIC, IT IS PRICY THOUGH AT $8.99 A QUART
IT IS FOR WET CLUTCHES I THINK IT HELPED WITH THE GEARS WHINING A LITTLE ALSO

JUST MY OPINION

[Jess from VA]

There is little debate that synthetic is better than dino.

There is little debate that the cheapest good synthetic is Shell Rotella syn 5-40.  $20 for a one-gallon blue jug at wally world.

I like Amzoil Motorcycle syn 10-40, but it like many are highway robbery. 

[22Dasher]

I read many threads here on the oil topic and went with the rotella T syn oil and I hadn't seen first leak as some mentioned and ot quitened the gear whine down in my bike tremedously

[hueco]

10-40 Amsoil motorcycle oil. Nuff said.

[woefman]

I just Tried Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W40 Turbo oil  (non energy conserving)
 
I like it so far for what that is worth.

Thin for the starts and thickens when needed.

Flows Like water when cold and Protects like 40 wt when hot.

You need this in Turbo engines where the owner is clueless about kicking in the turbo on cold starts
which is bad news bears for turbos. So I figured how could I go wrong.

Any and all comments welcome

After all I am the type that does use others advice at times and not afraid to do my own thing anyways.

[Robert]

I just Tried Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W40 Turbo oil  (non energy conserving)

I would check the oil that you bought for weight and energy conserving because the truck formula is a 5w40 and the car formula is a 0w40 that does have friction modifiers. The truck formula I don't think uses modifiers which is what you want. Just as a side note the problem with turbos is generally not the cold running but the hot, when the bearings get coke/deposits on them and also the seals go bad. Some turbos in fact most of the new turbos have water cooling them so they don't tend to coke up as bad but the older ones don't. Turbos really do well on diesel applications because the exhaust temp is lower than the gas counterpart and therefore last longer even at the higher boost pressures that a truck uses.

[woefman]

I just Tried Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W40 Turbo oil  (non energy conserving)

I would check the oil that you bought for weight and energy conserving because the truck formula is a 5w40 and the car formula is a 0w40 that does have friction modifiers. The truck formula I don't think uses modifiers which is what you want. Just as a side note the problem with turbos is generally not the cold running but the hot, when the bearings get coke/deposits on them and also the seals go bad. Some turbos in fact most of the new turbos have water cooling them so they don't tend to coke up as bad but the older ones don't. Turbos really do well on diesel applications because the exhaust temp is lower than the gas counterpart and therefore last longer even at the higher boost pressures that a truck uses.

This is a NEw PRoduct from what I understand.

Not discrediting you, but I know to look for label on back stating "Non Energy Conserving" and mine does NOT say energy conserving

[Madmike]

I just Tried Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W40 Turbo oil  (non energy conserving)

I would check the oil that you bought for weight and energy conserving because the truck formula is a 5w40 and the car formula is a 0w40 that does have friction modifiers. The truck formula I don't think uses modifiers which is what you want. Just as a side note the problem with turbos is generally not the cold running but the hot, when the bearings get coke/deposits on them and also the seals go bad. Some turbos in fact most of the new turbos have water cooling them so they don't tend to coke up as bad but the older ones don't. Turbos really do well on diesel applications because the exhaust temp is lower than the gas counterpart and therefore last longer even at the higher boost pressures that a truck uses.

A lot of the failures that occur on turbochargers can be attributed to improper shutdown procedures.  Operators need to be aware that the turbo should be cooled down by idling the engine before stopping  the engine.  This is particularly important if the engine was just worked hard by pulling a hill etc.  Load will mean more exhaust temperature (higher boost pressure and more fuel) and so the turbine wheel temperature is hotter.  The turbine/impeller shaft assembly will continue rotating for some period of time after shutdown and there will be no pressure lubrication from the oil system, the heat will transfer from the turbine wheel through the center housing and the film on the thrust washer will break down and you will get accelerated wear on this surface.  End result is end play on the shaft assembly with eventual contact between the rotating assembly and a stationary housing.  Most times when there is contact between the impeller wheel and volute housing it will be on the end not the side of the wheel.

Any turbos that I have worked on (up to 2000 HP at 1000 engine RPM) or rebuilt use a bushing in the center housing for radial load and a ramped thrust washer (usual failure) for axial load.  The turbine shafts are designed to shear (at the impeller wheel) in the event of contact.  I have been told that because of the centrifugal forces generated by the RPM's that are involved if the shaft didn't shear you have extreme energy to contain if the turbo comes apart - effectively a bomb on the side of the engine.