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Author Topic: To much play in clutch lever  (Read 2337 times)
Visseroth
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Posts: 40


« on: July 16, 2014, 11:52:05 PM »

OK, so I bought this bike (98 Fat Lady) with about 34K on it last year. The clutch lever was tight. Very little play in it. I basically had to hold the lever to the grip and if I released about an inch it would start to engage and I loved it!

Well as of a few days ago I noticed it was really getting a lot of play in it and it's gotten to a point now that I have to release the lever almost all the way to get the clutch to start to engage. Basically about 1 inch or less away from full release and as far as I can tell there is no engagement anywhere in between.

As of yesterday (from this post) I flushed the line with new DOT4 fluid and cleaned out the master cylinder. It had a light rusty color to it and it was sticking to the sides of the reservoir. It almost looked like it was slight gelled there but I wiped it all out and thoroughly flushed the lines until it came out clear and then flushed a bit more to be sure there was no air in the lines and there is still a lot of play in the lever.

Does anyone have any ideas what might cause this? Is this normal? Could it be a clutch problem? What ever it is I want it fixed.

I'll try what ever it is you guys think it may be but I'll also make it a point to get a video and show you what I'm talking about.
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'98 Honda Valkyrie Standard 1520cc
roadmap
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Posts: 85


« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2014, 01:21:44 AM »

first thing try the cheap alt. ways
1. got to the shop talk on jeff page there is a clutch bushing for 4.00 now from suzuki get that one it is a local order thats what i just paid at a stealer. beleive me i had allot of play in my clutch handle kept bleeding the lines with the same results. the part really did me right.. it made  my clutch handle like it was brand new of the showroom floor. just think i went on for years with a loose cluch really allot of play. could have  some air inline i got a mighty vac to bleed that helped also so many good ways to bleed your system plenty of material in archives

2. this is what you might NOT want to hear,  you could have signs of a clutch going out  the little rivits are breaking off causing the clutch handle and the clutch itself not working properly.
 search the arcives and read up on the clutch you can find out what other found and had to do good info there.

 if you find clutch trouble get it fixed right away the earlyer the better those rivits can damage allot parts that will help keep cost down also
my 1997 160,000 never had clucth issues other than the bushing knock on wood
« Last Edit: July 17, 2014, 01:27:21 AM by roadmap » Logged
Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2014, 03:29:55 AM »

Not sure why the free-play would change quickly like that. How does the operate ? Does it engage/disengage nice and smooth ?
Slop in the lever can be fixed just as Roadmap states with a new bushing.
Its normal for these monsters to engage near the end of the travel, almost released.
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2014, 05:56:54 AM »

I agree , it sounds like the clutch handle bushing is worn. That sludge you noticed in the reservoir is what water and Dot4 tend to form. Dot 4 is very hygroscopic and as such is why Honda recommends that these fluids be changed every two years. FWIW
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Brewer
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Posts: 331

Denver, CO


« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2014, 09:19:12 PM »

Certainly examine the lever , post and bushing. Remove the post and examine the parts.... any wear or out of round items should be replaced. If the Lever related parts are not correct the rest of the system will not function well.
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Brewer - it is a hobby
Visseroth
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Posts: 40


« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2014, 10:38:06 PM »

Good to know that DOT4 is worse about water than the others.

In regards to the lever, if it was worn wouldn't that also make the lever a bit floppy. Basically make it flop between being completely out and where it makes contact with the bushing?

I'm thinking I may spend a day and pull the clutch for inspection and see if I can see any rivots floating around in there and I will also inspect the bushing. I'm thinking of doing what others have posted online which is replace the lever with a newer one from the Goldwing 1800's as I guess they are adjustable.

I'll examine the lever, take some pics and get back to you guys.

Thanks for the replies by the way and thank you to the admin for approving me for posting to the forum!
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'98 Honda Valkyrie Standard 1520cc
Visseroth
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Posts: 40


« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2014, 12:17:53 AM »

Here is a picture of the bushing area. I obviously need some new rubber in there.....
]

Here's a video of the slop in the lever
http://vid833.photobucket.com/albums/zz254/visseroth/Motorcycle/Valkyrie/20140717_2241061_zps1149a756.mp4
« Last Edit: July 21, 2014, 07:26:27 PM by Visseroth » Logged

'98 Honda Valkyrie Standard 1520cc
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2014, 07:08:25 AM »

Just watched the video, I see nothing wrong there.

My clutch lever has been like that (the same) since new.

You can call it free play or whatever, it's perfectly normal.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Visseroth
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Posts: 40


« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2014, 10:29:53 AM »

Yea, that was just informative. The lever feel firm throughout the whole pull but doesn't engage until the last little bit which makes me wonder if the problem is in the clutch itself which is why I posted on here.

Where does your clutch start to engage? Half way, 3/4 out, 1/4 out?
I'm seriously thinking I may need to pull the clutch pack and inspect but I'm dreading it. Would rather just ride!  Cool

But to fix that rotted out seal I have a rebuilt kit on the way. Figure if that seal is that rotted out then it's due for new seals anyhow.
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'98 Honda Valkyrie Standard 1520cc
Valkpilot
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What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2014, 12:37:10 PM »

Yea, that was just informative. The lever feel firm throughout the whole pull but doesn't engage until the last little bit which makes me wonder if the problem is in the clutch itself which is why I posted on here.

Where does your clutch start to engage? Half way, 3/4 out, 1/4 out?
I'm seriously thinking I may need to pull the clutch pack and inspect but I'm dreading it. Would rather just ride!  Cool

But to fix that rotted out seal I have a rebuilt kit on the way. Figure if that seal is that rotted out then it's due for new seals anyhow.

Few truly worn out clutches have been reported here as far as I've read.  I, and others, have had to replace damper plates in the clutch pack due to failed rivets that hold the damper plate together.  But, the more-or-less definitive symptom of this is intermittent, but increasingly frequent, inability to pull the clutch lever all the way to the grip.  That doesn't seem to be what you're reporting, so you probably do not have a clutch pack issue. 

As Ricky-D indicates, the clutch should engage/disengage in the first inch or two of lever movement from the fully extended position.  In other words, only if it is engaging/disengaging close to the grip should you be concerned (your initial state.)

Most clutch issues come down to fluid age/level, master/slave cylinder problems, or lever wear.  Fluid age/level and lever wear are far and away the most common, and easiest to address.

You seem to have addressed the fluid age issue, just make sure the line is thoroughly bled of air.

The picture you included just shows a ragged dust boot.  Not a big deal.  The worn bushing that typically causes lever play issues is the brass insert in the foreground.  Also there is a sleeve in the lever that the pivot bolt goes through.  This can wallow out too, but is less common than the brass bushing wear. 

Both lever wear points may manifest as "clutch in" safety switch errors before they cause actual engage/disengage problems.  If the bike won't start in gear with the kickstand up and the lever pulled in, it's usually because the lever and the switch aren't getting along.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
Visseroth
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Posts: 40


« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2014, 02:06:54 PM »

Well Thank you Vilkpilot sir for breaking that down for me. If you couldn't tell I'm a bit of a newb  uglystupid2 to the Valk but I'm loving the heck out of it! and trying to keep everything working as it should so it is a safe uneventful ride.

So I guess with that I should look for a adjustable lever that would allow me to pull the clutch without so much throw in the lever.

Is that much throw necessary? If so I suppose I can give it time and get used to it
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'98 Honda Valkyrie Standard 1520cc
Valkpilot
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What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2014, 04:14:23 PM »

Well Thank you Vilkpilot sir for breaking that down for me. If you couldn't tell I'm a bit of a newb  uglystupid2 to the Valk but I'm loving the heck out of it! and trying to keep everything working as it should so it is a safe uneventful ride.

So I guess with that I should look for a adjustable lever that would allow me to pull the clutch without so much throw in the lever.

Is that much throw necessary? If so I suppose I can give it time and get used to it

When you're actually riding, you only have to pull the lever in about an inch to accomplish a shift.  It's not necessary to pull to the grip every time.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
doubletee
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Posts: 1165


VRCC # 22269

Fort Wayne, IN


« Reply #12 on: July 19, 2014, 04:16:16 AM »


So I guess with that I should look for a adjustable lever that would allow me to pull the clutch without so much throw in the lever.

Many of us have swapped out the Valk's clutch and front brake levers for the adjustable Gold Wing levers.  cooldude
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Visseroth
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Posts: 40


« Reply #13 on: July 19, 2014, 09:02:18 PM »

Nice! Does anyone have part number or a year range for the Goldwing levers?
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'98 Honda Valkyrie Standard 1520cc
doubletee
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VRCC # 22269

Fort Wayne, IN


« Reply #14 on: July 20, 2014, 06:21:43 AM »

Nice! Does anyone have part number or a year range for the Goldwing levers?

Click on this link and scroll down to about the third entry. There are 3 links for the proper levers.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,30653.0.html

There is also a wealth of additional info about them in the thread and much, much more to be found throughout the 1500 Tech section by simply searching on "Gold Wing levers." Hope the info helps!
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trout dude
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Posts: 1000


Hammond Louisiana


« Reply #15 on: July 20, 2014, 10:45:13 AM »

When my bike did that the pin had wore thru the brass bushing. Did you pull the bushing out all the way and check it out. Just asking because that would be a easy fix.
   Dennis
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Visseroth
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Posts: 40


« Reply #16 on: July 20, 2014, 10:38:19 PM »

No sir I have not. I will for sure check that tomorrow as right now I'm trying to finish scanning some documents then going to head of for some much wanted sleep after a day of doing work around the house and maintenance on the bike.  Cheesy
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'98 Honda Valkyrie Standard 1520cc
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