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Author Topic: Crap! Tire change  (Read 1406 times)
mike72903
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« on: July 17, 2014, 07:25:23 PM »

I put my first front tire on today and learned an important lesson. Take it to a shop next time tickedoff Removing and replacing the wheel wasn't a big deal, just getting the tire on the rim.  In any event, I followed the steps in the shop talk article that listed them in detail.  I have the front wheel on and the stupid thing has a click in it when you turn the wheel by hand.  I mean I followed the steps exactly just to avoid this kind of thing.  It seems to click as many times as there are outer studs (or whatever they are) on the oem brake disk but I don't see them hitting anything. There are 10 of the studs. I noticed the clicks before I torqued the right hand pinch bolts and hoped it would go away after I pumped the front and tightened them.  No such luck.  I'll go back in the morning and give it another look in better light. Would the rpm box account for that many clicks on one revolution of the wheel?  Anyone have any other suggestions or experienced this.  Thanks
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Michvalk
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Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2014, 07:35:30 PM »

Make sure the axel is fully seated in the fork before you tighten anything else. If it is sticking out, I tap mine in with a rubber mallet. Then go through the torque sequence cooldude
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lljjmm
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Posts: 143


« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2014, 07:44:05 PM »

Had the same kind of noise, the qualified installer (not me) did not seat the axle in far enough.

 The head of the axle bolt should be seated in the fork  not sticking out
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mike72903
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« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2014, 08:01:06 PM »

WOW, thank you both. It is just barely sticking out but I couldn't drive it any further and didn't want to break anything.  I'll try again.  Hope it's that simple Smiley
« Last Edit: July 17, 2014, 08:32:14 PM by CI_borg » Logged
Cracker Jack
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Posts: 556



« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2014, 08:36:04 PM »

Time to recycle my post of August 2012 on this subject for the ones that weren't around back then. angel

Cracker, 

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/board,5.0.html
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Cracker Jack
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« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2014, 08:41:42 PM »

Let me try this again.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,45929.msg437088.html#msg437088
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2014, 05:50:04 AM »

WOW, thank you both. It is just barely sticking out but I couldn't drive it any further and didn't want to break anything.  I'll try again.  Hope it's that simple Smiley

Yep that sounds like the issue. Just make sure you do it in the proper order and procedure. There is a write up in shoptalk cooldude
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indybobm
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Posts: 1601

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2014, 06:50:30 AM »

Time to recycle my post of August 2012 on this subject for the ones that weren't around back then. angel

Cracker,  

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/board,5.0.html


I totally agree with Cracker Jack. The article in Shop Talk and the Honda Service Manual is incorrect and should be updated.

This is what I do:
The procedure in shoptalk is wrong. When the axle bolt is tightened, the right fork is captive in the axle_bearing_spacer assembly. No matter how many times you bounce the front end, the right fork cannot move anywhere!
The left fork is the one that can move on the axle. That is the only one that can be in the wrong position.
When installing the front wheel,
1.I push the axle in as far as it will go
2. tighten the left fork to keep the axle from turning
3. torque the axle bolt
4. torque the right fork bolts
5. loosen the left fork bolts
6. bounce the front forks
7. torque the left fork bolts

After the left fork bolt is torqued visually check the left rotor to make sure it is centered with the caliper and has the proper amount of clearance

The only explanation I can think of as to why the manual is incorrect is if the person installing the front wheel is sitting if front of the bike. He is using his left/right, not the bike's.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2014, 07:09:53 AM by indybobm » Logged

So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2014, 07:22:18 AM »

Strange indeed. Mainly because I've always followed the Shop Manual procedure and have never had a problem. So goes life!
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2014, 11:22:34 AM »

Strange indeed. Mainly because I've always followed the Shop Manual procedure and have never had a problem. So goes life!
+1
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doubletee
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VRCC # 22269

Fort Wayne, IN


« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2014, 12:00:59 PM »

Strange indeed. Mainly because I've always followed the Shop Manual procedure and have never had a problem. So goes life!
+1
+2. Just did my first front wheel removal and reinstallation. Followed the Shop Manual and had no problems.
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indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2014, 12:37:38 PM »

Strange indeed. Mainly because I've always followed the Shop Manual procedure and have never had a problem. So goes life!

I think that is because the left fork usually ends up in the correct position. As long as the caliper is basically centered over the rotor, everything is fine.

I still have the Honda Service Manual for the VFR750 that I had back in the 90's.
The front fork/axle arrangement is VERY similiar to the Valk. The front wheel installation procedure for the VFR 750 is the same as Cracker Jack and I have suggested for the Valk. Not sure what happened in the Honda Valkyrie Service Manual

My Valkyrie manual is for 97 to 99 models. I got it when I bought my first 98 Tourer.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
mike72903
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« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2014, 01:46:14 PM »

All is well now. cooldude  I was loosening the pinch bolts on the left (clutch) side and the axle popped inward suddenly.  Went ahead with the rest of the procedure anyway just to be sure but the axle depth of insertion was the problem.  Live and learn. Added 8 ounces of Ride-On and went for a nice ride to distribute it in the tire. It's a Dunlop E3 which was also the replaced tire. Bike does seem to handle a little better now.  Not sure why or how, just a more stable feeling.  Thanks to everyone for pointing out my error.
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indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2014, 01:51:10 PM »

All is well now. cooldude  I was loosening the pinch bolts on the left (clutch) side and the axle popped inward suddenly.  Went ahead with the rest of the procedure anyway just to be sure but the axle depth of insertion was the problem.  Live and learn. Added 8 ounces of Ride-On and went for a nice ride to distribute it in the tire. It's a Dunlop E3 which was also the replaced tire. Bike does seem to handle a little better now.  Not sure why or how, just a more stable feeling.  Thanks to everyone for pointing out my error.

Glad it is fixed. Not to be critical, but the axle did not pop in, the left fork moved a little over the axle when the pinch bolts were loosened.  Smiley
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So many roads, so little time
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2014, 08:37:42 PM »

All is well now. cooldude  I was loosening the pinch bolts on the left (clutch) side and the axle popped inward suddenly.  Went ahead with the rest of the procedure anyway just to be sure but the axle depth of insertion was the problem.  Live and learn. Added 8 ounces of Ride-On and went for a nice ride to distribute it in the tire. It's a Dunlop E3 which was also the replaced tire. Bike does seem to handle a little better now.  Not sure why or how, just a more stable feeling.  Thanks to everyone for pointing out my error.
Always like the feel of a new front tire cooldude
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bogator
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IN GOD WE TRUST------KK4KSN-------

Valley,Al


« Reply #15 on: July 19, 2014, 04:18:03 AM »

Well Hello all, I just changed my rear tire yesterday---me and Joe--- put a new car tire on --the Yokohama that I took off was starting to dry rot, been on for 5 years, mileage was about 12 or 15 thousand --not sure got to look at records--regreased splines , all looked good. changed tire pressure to 36 lbs now to see how it rides--felt good coming home ---about 4 miles---put a kelly tire on--80 bucks--YA'LL PRAY for me--I don't won't to DIE a flaming death-- as some have said--- time to clean up the bike and a little polish, GOD BLESS---Then to RIDE_RIDE_RIDE-- crazy2
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #16 on: July 19, 2014, 05:46:29 AM »

Well Hello all, I just changed my rear tire yesterday---me and Joe--- put a new car tire on --the Yokohama that I took off was starting to dry rot, been on for 5 years, mileage was about 12 or 15 thousand --not sure got to look at records--regreased splines , all looked good. changed tire pressure to 36 lbs now to see how it rides--felt good coming home ---about 4 miles---put a kelly tire on--80 bucks--YA'LL PRAY for me--I don't won't to DIE a flaming death-- as some have said--- time to clean up the bike and a little polish, GOD BLESS---Then to RIDE_RIDE_RIDE-- crazy2
It's too late, you sold your soul to the devil 2funny
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #17 on: July 20, 2014, 04:15:08 PM »

I had the same click in mine after a tire change, turned out to be the inside brake pad on the brake side. The little spring was loose, took it out bent it into shape a little better and reinstalled.  cooldude
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