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Author Topic: Questionable Alternator Output  (Read 1585 times)
CoachDoc
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*****
Posts: 143


San Diego, CA


« on: July 19, 2014, 03:32:12 PM »

After not riding my '97 Standard for about 2weeks,  yesterday it cranked but wouldn't kick over. It didn't seem to be cranking with the usual power, so I checked my battery. Voltage was barely over 12V but with the ignition switched on it dropped to 8.05V, which I'm thinking was not enough to both crank the engine and provide spark. I trickle charged overnight, and the battery came up to 12.92V an hour after I removed the charger. I just touched the starter and it fired right up.

When I checked the charging voltage, it shows 14.10V from idle right on up to 5000rpm.........manual says 15.5V is normal charging current, which seems pretty high to me compared to other bikes I've owned. Is my alternator going? Gone?
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CoachDoc
'97 Valkyrie Standard
'05 Goldwing
'74 CB550K
R J
Member
*****
Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2014, 03:39:43 PM »



Without seeing the ride, I'd say your battery is getting ready to take a crap.


How old is the battery?

Take the battery to like AutoZone and have them do a load test on it.

Didn't look where you were from.

If you are close to Iowa, bring it by my kid's shop and tell him your dad said to put a load test on this battery.
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Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2014, 03:40:59 PM »

I have gauges on my 2000 IS, and I have 12 volts with key on and once started goes to 14.2 everytime. I would suspect battery problem or voltage drain first. Make sure connections are clean. Let us know, Firefighter.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
R J
Member
*****
Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2014, 03:41:07 PM »



Hey Bro, put where you are from if it is only the state in your profile.

Thanks......    PS: It is very easy.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2014, 04:17:45 PM »

When I checked the charging voltage, it shows 14.10V from idle right on up to 5000rpm.........manual says 15.5V is normal charging current, which seems pretty high to me compared to other bikes I've owned. Is my alternator going? Gone?
The shop manual doesn't say expect 15.5V, it says alternator charging voltage should be between measured battery voltage and 15.5V;  i.e. 15.5V is the top end of normal.

Heed RJ's comments.
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BigMac (SoCal)
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Posts: 1005


Moreno Valley, California


WWW
« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2014, 04:21:18 PM »

Should be around 14.1 volts running over 1000 rpm or so. If it's more like you say your going to be cooking components and stuff. Your regulator might be bad in the alt. The battery will be around 12.6 volts and then when you hit the starter it will drop to around 11.5 volt momentarily until the bike starts. Then right back up to normal volts at idle.  
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CoachDoc
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Posts: 143


San Diego, CA


« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2014, 05:31:15 PM »

When I checked the charging voltage, it shows 14.10V from idle right on up to 5000rpm.........manual says 15.5V is normal charging current, which seems pretty high to me compared to other bikes I've owned. Is my alternator going? Gone?
The shop manual doesn't say expect 15.5V, it says alternator charging voltage should be between measured battery voltage and 15.5V;  i.e. 15.5V is the top end of normal.

Heed RJ's comments.
OK, thanks for clearing up my unease over the charging voltage. Sounds like my alternator output is right there with what you guys are getting.

Interesting tidbit about Autozone. I just got back from the Autozone in Leucadia, Ca, (I live just north of San Diego) and they said their tester can't load test low output batteries like a mc battery. Strange because they've done it for me before, and I've bought mc batteries from them in the past. Evidently they no longer will stock mc batteries, due to low volume.

In any event I'm thinking I may just need to keep my tender hooked up when I'm not riding every day. Thanks for all the good feedback.
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CoachDoc
'97 Valkyrie Standard
'05 Goldwing
'74 CB550K
Michvalk
Member
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Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2014, 05:38:26 PM »

Just buy a new battery. A bad battery can ruin the alternator. cooldude
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #8 on: July 19, 2014, 06:48:50 PM »

Just buy a new battery. A bad battery can ruin the alternator. cooldude
    What he said. DO NOT screw around with a suspect battery. Other folks sides Auto Zone check batteries. Just about the time you need the battery is when it WILL take a crap on ya and leave you tween lost and found-DO NOT pass go-break out a couple of C-notes!!  tickedoff RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
R J
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2014, 08:36:22 PM »



AutoZone says they can't load test a mc battery.

That clerk does not have a clue how to test it as it tests the same way as a car battery.

My 39 Chevy coupe when I 1st got the engine in it, it was running on a MC battery for like 5 months.   I had the spare mc battery setting around, pulled it off the shelf, stuck in in the Coupe under the hood.   It was a healthy engine, it started live as a 427 before it was bored out and sleeved back to about .060 over.

Find a new auto parts store to go to.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #10 on: July 20, 2014, 11:10:54 AM »

There are load tests, that most all parts dealers don't do any more.

Most all parts dealers do a resistance test now, where the battery

condition (regarding load ability) is derived from a resistance

reading. It's not a true load test. Really, not much of a test at all.

***
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