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Author Topic: rear shocks for 1998 F6  (Read 1737 times)
bsg
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Posts: 29


naples


« on: July 29, 2014, 11:48:35 AM »

Hey everyone,
 just bought a 1998 F6 and while going though the bike believe it needs new rear shocks . The manual said place on sidestand and remove one shock at a time and the other will hold but it's not even close to holding, Is there any good option other than $ 1000 stock replacement from Honda. Need front and rear tires also and want good quality but it's adding up fast.
Thanks for any advice and will try to post some pic.
Scott
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2014, 12:07:25 PM »


keep an eye out for used Interstate shocks... unworn-out ones are OK...

Progressive 440 shocks... I think they are 444's now...

Works Performance shocks...

-Mike

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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2014, 12:27:01 PM »

The manual said place on sidestand and remove one shock at a time and the other will hold...
Is this in the owner's manual?  I can't find it in the service manual.
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Marinakorp
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Posts: 225


King of Prussia, PA


« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2014, 01:03:26 PM »


keep an eye out for used Interstate shocks... unworn-out ones are OK...

Progressive 440 shocks... I think they are 444's now...

Works Performance shocks...

-Mike



Progressive only lists the 412 and the 416 for the Valkyrie...

Where re the 444?
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I would rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6
bsg
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Posts: 29


naples


« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2014, 01:05:56 PM »

It's a Clymer must also be a aftermarket manual, Thanks was looking also at the 430 progressive
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Black Dog
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VRCC # 7111

Merton Wisconsin 53029


« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2014, 01:07:05 PM »

Nothing wrong with the Progressive 412's  cooldude  I've have a set (with the HD springs) and they have kept my 270 lb azz and my Valk happy, for many years  Wink

Black Dog
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Just when the highway straightened out for a mile
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A fork in the road brought a new episode
Don't you know...

Conform, go crazy, or ride a motorcycle...

Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #6 on: July 29, 2014, 01:23:25 PM »

If those are stock shocks, and they are on the lowest setting, I believe that one shock will not hold the bike at the top.

That's not a good test of anything!

Even old as they are, they are still lots better than aftermarket shocks.

Oem is the only way to go, and Interstate shocks are the best for stiff riding, if that's what you're looking for.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #7 on: July 29, 2014, 01:30:07 PM »


Oem is the only way to go, and Interstate shocks are the best for stiff riding, if that's what you're looking for.


Your OEM Interstate shocks were stiffer than your HD 440s? Wow...

-Mike
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sandy
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Posts: 5392


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2014, 02:12:22 PM »

Shock replacement. Raise the bike on a lift til the rear wheel is off the ground. Change one shock at a time. If you invest in a lift and adapter, it'll save you money in the long run. You can change the wheels which will save on mounting/balancing. .... Post where you live and somebody close might be able to help.
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8Track
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Posts: 281


Adelaide, South Australia


« Reply #9 on: July 29, 2014, 03:25:29 PM »

If the rear shocks are not leaking, just replace the springs like I did. It only cost about $80.

Here is my old thread with the details:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,45903.msg447981.html#msg447981
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Paxton
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Posts: 2507


So Cal


« Reply #10 on: July 29, 2014, 05:30:28 PM »

I/S shock is good but for your application, so are the Tourer and/or Standard OME Shocks. Undecided
Notwithstanding, you might just need to change the rubber bushings on the ones you have. Wink

Need new tires? Go Darkside. Roll Eyes cooldude
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J. Paxton Gomez

1966 First year Bronco... 302 CI V8
1975 First year Chrysler Cordoba... 360 CI V8
1978 Honda 750F / Cafe Racer
2000 GL1500CY Fast-Black Standard Solo Rider

So Cal... 91205

"Four wheels move the body; two wheels move the soul."
bsg
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Posts: 29


naples


« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2014, 02:54:39 PM »

thanks for all of the input, went with progressive 440 "13 invested about 650.00. no lift so will take it and have the tires put on with the new shocks. metzler? tires o.k for a bike that will only get maybe 500 miles a year around town. I am way down south on the west coast of florida, hot in the summer and full of old tourists in the winter
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30482


No VA


« Reply #12 on: July 30, 2014, 03:45:31 PM »

You should visit the FL VRCC Board and seek help..... there's all kinds of old bastards down there riding around on Valks that will be glad to help you out.   2funny
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olddog1946
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Posts: 1830


Moses Lake, Wa


« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2014, 05:44:15 PM »

You should visit the FL VRCC Board and seek help..... there's all kinds of old bastards down there riding around on Valks that will be glad to help you out.   2funny

Now Now, don't be mean .....there are old bastards in every part of the country that will help out if they can.
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VRCC # 32473
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Moses Lake, Wa.   509-760-6382 if you need help
Paxton
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Posts: 2507


So Cal


« Reply #14 on: July 30, 2014, 07:56:33 PM »

"... full of old tourists in the winter."
     ====================
 ??? What? Yes, they are old... But they are NOT darn tourists. tickedoff   Ask the VRCC experts! laugh Evil 2funny
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J. Paxton Gomez

1966 First year Bronco... 302 CI V8
1975 First year Chrysler Cordoba... 360 CI V8
1978 Honda 750F / Cafe Racer
2000 GL1500CY Fast-Black Standard Solo Rider

So Cal... 91205

"Four wheels move the body; two wheels move the soul."
Anthony
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Posts: 198


Belgium


« Reply #15 on: July 31, 2014, 02:32:35 AM »

a good test is to measure initial sag:
measure vertically between bottom bolt of shock and a point on the fender rail, without any load on it.
measure vertically again, with the usual load on the bike, in upright position : rider (+ passenger) (+ luggage) + ...
the difference between these 2 measurements is called the 'initial sag'

set the pre load on the shocks as high untill you come to a point that the initial sag = 1 inch.
if your initial sag is higher then 1", even in the highest preload setting on the shocks, the shocks are not (or no longer) good for your typical load.

Anthony
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westnek
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Posts: 77


« Reply #16 on: July 31, 2014, 09:14:02 AM »

Shock replacement. Raise the bike on a lift til the rear wheel is off the ground. Change one shock at a time. If you invest in a lift and adapter, it'll save you money in the long run. You can change the wheels which will save on mounting/balancing. .... Post where you live and somebody close might be able to help.
the adapter is it the wood type and will it allow you to remove one wheel at a time with out  toppling bike off -I have a bottle 'black jack ' foot pedal with two cross members on it  same one as I saw   with a wooden adapter, ive raised the bike BUT  havnt  removed wheels  [yet ]-
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14786


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #17 on: July 31, 2014, 09:40:46 AM »

thanks for all of the input, went with progressive 440 "13 invested about 650.00. no lift so will take it and have the tires put on with the new shocks. metzler? tires o.k for a bike that will only get maybe 500 miles a year around town. I am way down south on the west coast of florida, hot in the summer and full of old tourists in the winter

The best way to incur drive train damage is to:

Quote
will take it and have the tires put on with the new shocks.

You don't need a lift to change shocks.  Many have done it on the side stand, its just a little harder.

If you are going to have the dealer R/R the wheels for new tires, first YOU learn the process especially for the rear.  Then ask a lot of questions about how the mechanic is going to do it, what grease, the 4 bolts etc.  So you know if its worth the risk of having them do it or not.  If you don't know whats supposed to be done, you will never know it they did it right or not.  Well, until you have a drive train failure prematurely.
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bsg
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Posts: 29


naples


« Reply #18 on: July 31, 2014, 01:44:48 PM »

I am taking it to the Honda dealer for that purpose  of hopefully doing it right , have never had a shaft drive bike, but the shocks are 444's and will soon get some pic. if not too difficult.
Thanks again for the help and I am one of those old bastards as well.
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8Track
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Posts: 281


Adelaide, South Australia


« Reply #19 on: July 31, 2014, 11:30:15 PM »

A Honda dealer servicing the rear end end using correct procedure and bolting it up correctly? Not very likely!!

Read Shoptalk section here and know what should and shouldn't be done. You can then ensure the dealer does things correctly.
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