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Author Topic: Wheel bearings  (Read 2881 times)
scooter
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Posts: 24


Minnesota


« on: August 09, 2009, 08:53:42 AM »

What is the best kind of wheel bearings to use on our Valkyries.  My rear ones are bad.
Also is there any tech articles on how to replace them.
Thank you!
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97 Valkyrie standard
R J
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2009, 09:46:08 AM »

Do a search on bearings and settle back for reading all about them.

97's are different front & rear, than later models.

Now that I said that, rears might be the same.
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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Brazil, IN


« Reply #2 on: August 09, 2009, 11:02:23 AM »

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

This link will hook you up.
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #3 on: August 09, 2009, 02:41:20 PM »

I wish I knew the answer to your question. The link above will provide info on bearing numbers and I think Napa numbers. This link : http://www.goallballs.com/home.asp is for All Balls which claims to have excellent bearings. This link: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6204-2RS-1 has less expensive bearings but no mention of where they are made.
Maybe others have educated opinions on which is best.
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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Brazil, IN


« Reply #4 on: August 09, 2009, 07:19:36 PM »

I buy my valk wheel bearings from a local industrial bearing supply business. I told their counter person what I was going to use the bearings for and he steered me to what he felt was the best brand for our application. Unfortunately I don't remember the brand name of the bearings or the cost. As far as the bearing seals go, I always buy them from Honda.

If you search the old tech files (pretty sure the administration saved them) you should find lots of info on changing the bearings.

I support the wheel from underneath in such a way that the bearing on the bottom can fall free. Then I use a long brass rod to reach through the wheel so I can knock the opposite bearing out. I go back and forth from one side to the other taping on it so it doesn't get cocked sideways. You don't want to just tap in one place or the bearing will get cocked sideways and it will be hard to get out. Be careful that you are taping on the bearing only, not the wheel. I'll post a link to any archives I can find which pertain to this. If the bearing you are removing is one that has a separate seal over it the seal will be removed as the bearing comes out so there is no need to try to pry it out separately.

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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice.
And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.''
-- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964
FryeVRCCDS0067
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Posts: 4338


Brazil, IN


« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2009, 07:25:18 PM »

The “old tech archive” link is at the top of this page. If you click on it and then search for wheel bearings you will find quite a bit of additional info.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice.
And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.''
-- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964
Scott in Ok
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Oklahoma City, Ok


« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2009, 07:30:57 PM »

Left Rear: 6204
Right Rear: 5204

Sealed bearings. Available from honda, but also from Napa or any bearing supplier.

Get your seal, for the left rear side, from Honda. Part# 91253-443-762

Drive the old bearings out, and drive the new ones in.  Just remember to drive the new ones in by ONLY hitting the outer race.  Do NOT hit the inner race or the bearing will be toast.

And don't forget to put the spacer back in between the two!

-Scott

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scooter
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Minnesota


« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2009, 08:22:18 PM »

Thank you all very much!!!  Everyone is always very helpful here and it's greatly appreciated.
Thanks again!
Scott
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97 Valkyrie standard
timmer
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« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2009, 09:24:38 PM »

As mentioned above both bearings are sealed, the difference is that the right side is a double row bearing and the left is a single row bearing. When my left (single row) went out (57K) last month I replaced both sides with the larger double row bearing. Bought the bearings at a local bearing house. If you go this route then you have to have the left outside collar/spacer turned down to make up the difference in widths. I got it tuned down for $7 at a machine shop. It maybe over kill but I like having the larger bearing on both sides!

If you are carefull and not in a rush, replacing the bearings is no big deal - easly done in your garage with no special tools. Just work around the whole bearing to drive it out straight. Before putting in the new ones, throw them in the freezer for a few hours before hand and drive them in using ONLY the outside race period. Good luck
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roboto65
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Conroe,TX


« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2009, 06:54:49 AM »

Called my "local" bearing house and was told the 5204 number crossed to some other number 3204 are the same and the bearings were double sealed the price was 34 dollars for name brand may have to search around Houston plenty of them there just figured I might find it closer LOL  The Japanese bearings are cheaper so those would be 11 maybe anybody had any problems wwith the cheaper bearings?
« Last Edit: August 11, 2009, 07:16:33 AM by roboto65 » Logged

Allen Rugg                                                       
VRCC #30806
1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate
1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 project
Ferris Leets
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Catskill Mountains, N.Y.


« Reply #10 on: August 11, 2009, 07:25:52 AM »

My choice would not be the cheapest.  The long run cost is not much for the name brand, and the cost of a cheap one failing is pretty bad.  I've used the "AllBalls" brand before and had no problems (on the Vulcan).
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #11 on: August 12, 2009, 01:36:58 PM »

roboto65 is your local bearing shop in Conroe  between fraiser and 45 north. I don't recall the name but I've bought bearings from a place over there a couple of times. Seems like they have a 25 dollar minium purchase deal.
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roboto65
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Conroe,TX


« Reply #12 on: August 12, 2009, 05:28:13 PM »

Yeah thats probably the one they just said something about name brand NGK SKS maybe and they were 34 dollars a piece for the 5304 he did not tell me the price of the "cheap ones"  Grin   Knida wonder how the 11 dollar bearings are doing? By the way mine is not bad that I can tell just trying to prepare for an IronButt to my Dads and want to have a few things spare!!
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Allen Rugg                                                       
VRCC #30806
1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate
1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 project
T.P.
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Posts: 1963


Apple Valley, Minnesota.


« Reply #13 on: August 12, 2009, 06:21:34 PM »

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6204-2RS-1 you will need 3  http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit6936  you will need 1 of these.  cooldude
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scooter
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Minnesota


« Reply #14 on: August 14, 2009, 10:52:49 AM »

THANKS A LOT EVERYONE!!!!!  I decided to try "Allballs".  I ordered them from JP cycles from Iowa for 24.99.  It included 2 bearings and the seal.  I got them in two days.  Also thanks for all of the installation instructions.  This is truely an awsome site with great people.  Scott
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97 Valkyrie standard
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