hoisting valk at home

[westnek]

wanting all info  for hoisting my valk-  i allready have an adapter [home made] that lifts it BUT  worried if I remove a wheel will bike topple off the jack as it may be un-balanced  thanks 

[The emperor has no clothes]

Never had a problem. But I would recommend using tie downs just to be safe.

[Jess from VA]

Jack it up.  Add two jack stands under the front engine guards.  

Then finagle your lift so you have the bike solidly on the jack stands in front AND on the jack safety bar with hydraulics released (and reset).  (bike is a rock)  

Leave your kickstand out (lest you forget on letdown).  I put a 2 x 6 under the stand to more easily get the jack properly positioned underneath, and the wood adapter on top, and leave the block of wood under the stand (and stand out) during work.  

Then tie it down if you feel the need.

[John Schmidt]

First, what bike do you have; Std., Tourer, or I/S?  Second, what are you doing to the bike that it needs to be jacked up? If you're just changing the rear tire and servicing the rear end, it only needs to be jacked up enough to get the rear wheel a couple inches off the floor. No need to raise 750 lbs. or more nearly two feet in the air.

[westnek]

First, what bike do you have; Std., Tourer, or I/S?  Second, what are you doing to the bike that it needs to be jacked up? If you're just changing the rear tire and servicing the rear end, it only needs to be jacked up enough to get the rear wheel a couple inches off the floor. No need to raise 750 lbs. or more nearly two feet in the air.

   thanx for response= was gonna grease splines ,never took wheel off before ,had it up with adapter on a Costco motorcycle jack with a adapter ,,wandering where to tie it down   OR  if I don't wrench heavy at  it will bike stay on jack?

[The emperor has no clothes]

First, what bike do you have; Std., Tourer, or I/S?  Second, what are you doing to the bike that it needs to be jacked up? If you're just changing the rear tire and servicing the rear end, it only needs to be jacked up enough to get the rear wheel a couple inches off the floor. No need to raise 750 lbs. or more nearly two feet in the air.

   thanx for response= was gonna grease splines ,never took wheel off before ,had it up with adapter on a Costco motorcycle jack with a adapter ,,wandering where to tie it down   OR  if I don't wrench heavy at  it will bike stay on jack?

mines pretty stable without tie downs but I put them on the engine guards and bottom shock mounts.

[Gryphon Rider]

I use a home-made wood adaptor and don't use tie-downs with my lift. I am always very aware of how the forces I am applying affect the balance on the lift. This method is NOT for everyone. That being said, I can lift the bike high enough to remove the rear wheel without removing the back half of the fender.

[Ken Tarver]

For me, I always tie down if removing front or rear wheel

Ken

[xman]

As a backup I tie off the front and back to the ceiling rafters. You do get a major shift in weight when you pull one of the wheels. You can never to safe when your under this thing.

[BradValk48237]

Word of warning...

I too use a homemade jack adapter.... I went the easiest route from posts on here... so I put together the wooden one WITHOUT the board that goes under the motor... have used it for several years that way...

Whheeellllll.. last year as i was changing to a new tire, I had it up on the lift, and I do use the tie downs to hold it down, and was putting the wheel back up in... the bike was a bit front heavy as it is a matter to half inches to have it balanced right.....

Evidently I had it a little to far forward on the jack... because as I was wrestling the wheel back on.. I pushed/raised the back end up just a bit too much....

Because as I was sitting on the floor, slightly under the bike, THE ADAPTER FELL OUT!!!!!!!!!!!

SO there I am.... sitting on the floor, now holding the bike up with the wheel under the fender- not attached...... not able to move much..... I can't let go as I don't know whats going to happen if I let the bike settle back on the back part of the lift where the adapter fits...

Of course, I am alone, no one around...... So I carefully get to my knees, still holding the rear of the bike up (It was balanced just enough so I could with one hand) and was able to get ahold of the adapter and get it partially back in place..... Added 2 straps to hold down the rear at that point to the bag rails  to keep it in place.

Got the wheel carefully in place (dark side, so it was tight) and got the axel in..... WHEEEWWWW!!!

Dropped the bike back down and was able to reposition it on the jack and lift it back up and finished the job..

The adapter now has the board to go under the motor...... lesson learned.

Brad

[The emperor has no clothes]

Word of warning...

I too use a homemade jack adapter.... I went the easiest route from posts on here... so I put together the wooden one WITHOUT the board that goes under the motor... have used it for several years that way...

Whheeellllll.. last year as i was changing to a new tire, I had it up on the lift, and I do use the tie downs to hold it down, and was putting the wheel back up in... the bike was a bit front heavy as it is a matter to half inches to have it balanced right.....

Evidently I had it a little to far forward on the jack... because as I was wrestling the wheel back on.. I pushed/raised the back end up just a bit too much....

Because as I was sitting on the floor, slightly under the bike, THE ADAPTER FELL OUT!!!!!!!!!!!

SO there I am.... sitting on the floor, now holding the bike up with the wheel under the fender- not attached...... not able to move much..... I can't let go as I don't know whats going to happen if I let the bike settle back on the back part of the lift where the adapter fits...

Of course, I am alone, no one around...... So I carefully get to my knees, still holding the rear of the bike up (It was balanced just enough so I could with one hand) and was able to get ahold of the adapter and get it partially back in place..... Added 2 straps to hold down the rear at that point to the bag rails  to keep it in place.

Got the wheel carefully in place (dark side, so it was tight) and got the axel in..... WHEEEWWWW!!!

Dropped the bike back down and was able to reposition it on the jack and lift it back up and finished the job..

The adapter now has the board to go under the motor...... lesson learned.

Brad

Wow that was close to going really bad ! Glad it worked out. Good wake up call for all of us to not get complacent.

[9Ball]

another consideration is to loosen the axel bolt and the brake caliper mount bolt before lifting the bike....this way you won't be using very much force to remove them during disassembly while the bike is in the air.

Good luck.

[Ricky-D]

Well, if you have the bike up on the lift and plan on removing a wheel,

it is a smart move to block up under the other wheel that remains on

the bike. Knowing and realizing there will be a change in balance

when you remove a wheel is paramount to remaining safe.

***

[Chrisj CMA]

I too made a wooden adapter, in fact mine is the second one on that site about low tech adapters.  I have used mine on several Valkyries and many times I have taken wheels off sometimes just the back, sometimes both.  If I only have to take the front off I don't use the adapter, just position the jack under the forward portion of the engine and the rear wheel stays on the floor.

So using the whole wooden adapter, it cannot "fall out" because the jack is directly under it.  If the bike is properly tied down to the jack and the jack is on its safety(s) there should not be a problem with removing wheels at will.

I position the jack almost as far back on the adapter as possible.  I know I have it where I want it when as I lift the bike, both wheels leave the ground at the same time and the bike looks level on the jack.

This isint rocket science, but not paying attention, taking short cuts, and not having the right equipment can lead to disaster, take the right precautions and this is an easy job to get the phat gurl up in the air to work on

[Xtracho]

I use the jack stands under the front crash bars. Also loosen the axle nut before jacking her up so I'm not wrenching too hard. So far so good. Safety is the key word. You can never secure the bike too much to prevent an accidental tumping over.

[westnek]

I too made a wooden adapter, in fact mine is the second one on that site about low tech adapters.  I have used mine on several Valkyries and many times I have taken wheels off sometimes just the back, sometimes both.  If I only have to take the front off I don't use the adapter, just position the jack under the forward portion of the engine and the rear wheel stays on the floor.

So using the whole wooden adapter, it cannot "fall out" because the jack is directly under it.  If the bike is properly tied down to the jack and the jack is on its safety(s) there should not be a problem with removing wheels at will.

I position the jack almost as far back on the adapter as possible.  I know I have it where I want it when as I lift the bike, both wheels leave the ground at the same time and the bike looks level on the jack.

This isint rocket science, but not paying attention, taking short cuts, and not having the right equipment can lead to disaster, take the right precautions and this is an easy job to get the phat gurl up in the air to work on

thanks to all-yes the adapter is the low tech 2 2x4  20''L cross member 9 '' with 2x2 and 2x4 up-rights =thinking of two axle stands 10 inches to 16 range under the engine supports as close as possible in case a tip AND tie downs to bike jack  rings ;with the info ive gotten this method seems  pretty good ==thanks again everyone  -this site seems awesome glad i hooked up to it

[O-B-1]

Word of warning...

I too use a homemade jack adapter.... I went the easiest route from posts on here... so I put together the wooden one WITHOUT the board that goes under the motor... have used it for several years that way...

Whheeellllll.. last year as i was changing to a new tire, I had it up on the lift, and I do use the tie downs to hold it down, and was putting the wheel back up in... the bike was a bit front heavy as it is a matter to half inches to have it balanced right.....

Evidently I had it a little to far forward on the jack... because as I was wrestling the wheel back on.. I pushed/raised the back end up just a bit too much....

Because as I was sitting on the floor, slightly under the bike, THE ADAPTER FELL OUT!!!!!!!!!!!

SO there I am.... sitting on the floor, now holding the bike up with the wheel under the fender- not attached...... not able to move much..... I can't let go as I don't know whats going to happen if I let the bike settle back on the back part of the lift where the adapter fits...

Of course, I am alone, no one around...... So I carefully get to my knees, still holding the rear of the bike up (It was balanced just enough so I could with one hand) and was able to get ahold of the adapter and get it partially back in place..... Added 2 straps to hold down the rear at that point to the bag rails  to keep it in place.

Got the wheel carefully in place (dark side, so it was tight) and got the axel in..... WHEEEWWWW!!!

Dropped the bike back down and was able to reposition it on the jack and lift it back up and finished the job..

The adapter now has the board to go under the motor...... lesson learned.

Brad

i would have bought a Lotto ticket right after that recovery. Glad it turned out okay without you getting hurt!

I have the front end blocked on mine and have it tied down, handlebars & engine guards....

[frosty]

This works for me. Is stable enough to remove both wheels. Is ideal for raising to clean the wheels,etc.
And the price is well worth it. With free shipping.  Also if i am on the road and need to have it raised it is there. Thats some peace of mind.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOOK-VALKYRIE-HONDA-JACK-LIFT-ADAPTER-1-BEST-MOTORCYCLE-ITEM-Save-/181170677159?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2e9d25a7&vxp=mtr

[BigBod]

This is what I use, I love it. The Valk is bolted to it so it can't fall off. And the further I can get it in the air the better with my knackered knees....

[frosty]

This is what I use, I love it. The Valk is bolted to it so it can't fall off. And the further I can get it in the air the better with my knackered knees....

How does the Valk bolt to the stand. And would it work with a loaded Valk I/S.

[John Schmidt]

I don't use any kind of adapter to lift the bike. If I need to lift it a bit, I simply place a 3/4" piece of plywood I have cut that fits against the engine without pressing against the headers and place the lift under that. Only time I use that is to raise the front. Since I have a centerstand, I use that for pulling the rear end out. Put it on the c/s, place a floor jack under the swingarm to support it then remove both shocks. That lets me raise/lower the rear as much as necessary and I don't have to mess with the exhaust. Three bolts and the rear half of the fender is off and the rear wheel is in full view right in front of you. Pull the axle and simply roll the wheel out. Replacing it is almost as easy except I use a 30" piece of 1x3 over a short piece of 2x4 as a fulcrum. Roll the wheel into place and raise it with the 1x3, then you can hold it there with your knee while using both hands to engage the splines and the axle. My bike is never more than 2-3" off the floor, and I always place jack stands under the engine guards. The first time I went to service the rear end I had the bike about 20" in the air and it wasn't stable. I figured there had to be a safer way to handle 800lbs. and this is what I came up with.

You can do exactily the same thing with a lift if you don't have a centerstand. Just lift the bike enough to clear the floor by  2-3" and follow the same process. Keep in mind, if a bike starts to fall from 20" or more in the air, you're not going to stop it. If it's 2" in the air, it just tips over onto the engine guards.

[BigBod]

There is an attachment especially for the Valk that bolts to the frame of the bike underneath and this in turn bolts to the beam that goes under the bike. The other beam goes under the engine. No need to bolt this one.

During the Summer months I leave the attachment bolted to the bike. If I need to get the bike in the air, even for cleaning it's done in just a couple of minutes. Can do it by myself quite easily now.

Will take an Interstate no probs, will take just about anything. Mate of mine has one for his GL1800 Wing. I also use mine on my GL1500 sidecar outfit. Use this under the bike and a small ramp under the sidecar wheel. Works a treat.

They are made here in the UK but you can buy them in the US now, http://lifts-and-stands.com/

Couldn't be without mine now...

[BigBod]

This will explain it a bit better. By the way, I never paid anymore for the Valk attachment. I haggled and got it for free when I bought the machine..

http://lifts-and-stands.com/product/honda-valkyrie-mounts-for-the-big-blue-bike-lift-and-eazy-rizer-red/

[BF]

BigBod....

Can you lift the Valk on either side of the bike with the Big Blue lift....or is it limited to just using it on one side?

[BigBod]

I've only ever lifted it from the one side, opposite to the side stand. I can't see any reason why you couldn't lift from either side.