HELP: Need to have a Ring job done on my 1998 Valkyrie, I'm in Ohio

[Valk6 (diaz)]

Hi all,
My 98' Valk is smoking a bit from #4 Cylinder.  I've done valve stem seal replacement, but that did not help.  Did a 4K trip to Sturgis this month and burned about one quart of oil.  She just turned past the 100K mark. So ... I think I need a ring job, but I do not have the tools or knowledge to handle this type of job. Can anyone give me recommendations  as to who may be able to do it?  I'm located in Akron, Ohio.

Thanks for your help.

  ~Chris

[Attic Rat]

I can do it. I have the special tools to split the case

[98valk]

Hi all,
My 98' Valk is smoking a bit from #4 Cylinder.  I've done valve stem seal replacement, but that did not help.  Did a 4K trip to Sturgis this month and burned about one quart of oil.  She just turned past the 100K mark. So ... I think I need a ring job, but I do not have the tools or knowledge to handle this type of job. Can anyone give me recommendations  as to who may be able to do it?  I'm located in Akron, Ohio.

Thanks for your help.

  ~Chris

most likely a gummed/carboned up ring pack. GL1500 engines don't wear out 
research http://www.auto-rx.com/
see some results www.bobistheoilguy.com
there have been some amazing documented results.

could also try an excellent diesel oil which have high levels of detergent which will clean the ring pack.
one of the best out there right now is Chevon Delo 400, in either 5w40, 15w40 or 10w30, all have high levels of boron which is an excellent anti-wear additive and has outstanding cleaning abilities. http://www.pqiamerica.com/May%202013/chevrondelo.htm

using seafoam?, stop!, low temp ingredients solidify when hitting the hot intake valves, what get through could get to the rings. Have had great results with chemtool.

[Pete]

Compression test???
If OK and only using 1  quart in 4K miles.
Ride it until it is much worse that that.

[Chrisj CMA]

I can do it. I have the special tools to split the case

Not trying to derail the thread.  I agree very few (if any) of these motors need top end work like that...but, If it did, wouldn't removing the cylinder head be enough?  Why would you have to split the case?

[Valk6 (diaz)]

most likely a gummed/carboned up ring pack. GL1500 engines don't wear out 
research http://www.auto-rx.com/
see some results www.bobistheoilguy.com
there have been some amazing documented results.

[/quote]

CA, forgot to mention that early this year I did the 'Auto-rx' treatment and when that didn't work I did the valve stem seal replacement.

 

[John Schmidt]

Chris, split the case to get to the connecting rods so you can remove the pistons.

[Patrick]

I think I would agree with the 'ride it' comments. 1 qt in 4K miles I don't think is a problem. A leak test may/should show the engine condition. Splitting these cases I think is a PITA.

[Chrisj CMA]

Chris, split the case to get to the connecting rods so you can remove the pistons.

Ok, but cant you change rings and hone the cylinders without removing the pistons and connecting rods?  I don't know, just seems it would work

[John Schmidt]

Chris, split the case to get to the connecting rods so you can remove the pistons.

Ok, but cant you change rings and hone the cylinders without removing the pistons and connecting rods?  I don't know, just seems it would work

No. On engines with individual jugs placed down over the pistons such as most V Twins, aircraft engines, etc., then yes. Just remove/lift the jug off the piston(oversimplified) and you have the piston exposed. Not so with these flat engines. I've not split a 6 but have a 4 such as used on an older Wing and I'm fairly certain it follows much the same procedure with the 6. On the 4 when you split the case, the left half case is relatively empty(mostly) and the rods/pistons are fully exposed laying on top of the gears. The right half of the case contains all the gears plus the rods/pistons which are still in the cylinders. To re-ring the pistons on the right half and hone the cylinders you would have to disconnect the rods and push the pistons out the top. When reassembling, the pistons for the left half enter the cylinders from the bottom....gets kinda tricky if you've not done it before. If you have removed the pistons from the right half and are reassembling it, the pistons go in from the top as usual. In any case, just pulling the heads only exposes the top of the pistons, nothing else. There isn't an oil pan to remove like with a car engine, which gives access to the crank and rods. On those you can pull the heads and the pan, unbolt the rods and push the pistons out through the top. These boxer engines aren't built that way.