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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: warning light / electrical issue  (Read 1426 times)
RVTrike
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Wabasha Minnesota


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« on: September 01, 2014, 06:28:22 PM »

New guy here.  Got my Valkyrie Saturday after wanting one since they first came out.  Not a  basket case but definitely abused and neglected.   1999 red/black with 118,000 miles. 
The engine runs and I rode it down the road to check the gears and such.  The only thing I have working electrically is the headlight and radio.  No warning lights, no taillights, no signals, no speedometer , no tach, no fuel gauge.  Just on the chance that they are all related I thought I would at least post it.  I would hate to spend lots of time on it and then some one post that I should have asked and it was a common problem and he could have saved me a lot of time.  There you go , appreciate any help I can get.  Almost forgot its an interstate with fairing, trunk and hard bags. 
Thanks
Vern
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BigMac (SoCal)
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Moreno Valley, California


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« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2014, 07:14:53 PM »

If it's been neglected as you say I would start with taking every single electrical connection apart and cleaning them. Be sure to use dielectric grease to make sure you have good connections. Check all the fuses along the way. 
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Valkpilot
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What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2014, 07:21:28 PM »

If it's been neglected as you say I would start with taking every single electrical connection apart and cleaning them. Be sure to use dielectric grease to make sure you have good connections. Check all the fuses along the way. 

Sorry to disagree, but dielectric grease does not assure a good connection.  Dielectric means "does not conduct."  Too much of it in the interface between connector contacts will prevent the connection from working.  It should be used to seal connections after they are already made.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
Michvalk
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Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2014, 08:35:54 PM »

Start with fuzes. There is a connector on the back of the instrument pod that can corrode and cause the stuff your talking about. Flip the switches a few times to see if that makes a difference. I would bet the problem is under the right side cover cooldude
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2014, 08:53:43 PM »

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/index.html

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
RVTrike
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Wabasha Minnesota


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« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2014, 06:51:47 PM »

Thanks everyone and also for the schematics,,  I'm hoping to finish a project and take a look at it next week, will let you know what I find. 
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2014, 04:22:05 PM »

 First get a meter and a test light and check both sides of the fuses. On an interstate there is two fuse boxes. A large one and a smaller one. there is a large plug in the back of the meter panel. Just about everything you talked about is fed thru that plug. Also check and clean all grounds. Good luck and enjoy.
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RVTrike
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Wabasha Minnesota


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« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2014, 04:38:37 PM »

Update.   The warning lights were just a fuse, tech doesn't work checked brake lights will go further after I get the exhaust back on.
Took the exhaust off today most of the studs came off with it the others were broke.  Got them out with vise grips.  Used two cans of engine cleaner to clean the sludge off, especially the left side.  Does the shifter sometimes leak oil?  If so is it an easy fix while I have the manifolds off?  
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Challenger
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« Reply #8 on: September 22, 2014, 05:14:44 PM »

I pulled my shifter seal out with a dental pick and pushed the new one in my thumb. They aren't that tight. Some guys drill a tiny hole in it and inset a sheet metal screw to pull on. Pretty simple fix.
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dragonslayer
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Posts: 179

palm bay fl.


« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2014, 06:23:55 PM »

 Smiley
Found an old post about LCD display problem.There is a jumper block taped up inside the main wire harness just above the swing arm.this jumper block is just forward of the rear tire between the battery box and swing arm.So when it rains the harness/jumper block is exposed to road spray.Over time the connections inside the jumper block corrode and all kinds of gremlins appear such as:
 stop lights
 clutch lever switch
 side stand switch
 neutral switch
 alternator turn on & voltage sensor wire
 bank angle sensor & relay
 general grounds
    Evil Evil Evil

LCD and radio & cb are also connected in this block.
The authors solution was to cut out jumper block and solder and heat shrink all the wires.You will need to remove battery,battery box,etc to get access to where the jumper block {orange connector} is taped inside the harness.
There was  another named Friagabi who produced instructions and photos.
This post was by Bikeslave back in march 2009.Hope this helps.
I save almost everything that sounds weird and could go wrong as there are "NO' bike mechanics I trust in this town.
This forum has the most knowledgeable people I know when it comes to our phat ladies.
Glad to see you got your own,enjoy.

 
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2k IS
98 Tour
2001 Stand
RVTrike
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Wabasha Minnesota


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« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2014, 09:59:44 AM »

Thanks for all the help,  got it running and the exhaust gaskets and studs replace, not so fun.  Twisted one stud off just putting it in.  Next issue coolant leak, I will start a new thread.
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