Help with the Kisan Signalminder

[Hook#3287]

Just installed as directed in the not so clear directions.

Installed the running light option harness also

Didn't want to use the "scotchloks" t-taps provided,but went ahead with it.

Now, when the running light DIP switch is on, the left side blinks slowly and the right side will blink lightly with it. The right side works as it should.

When the running light DIP switch is off, the right side won't shut off automatically, just keeps cycling. The left side works as it should.

Can't get the brake flash feature to work at all.

Checked all the wiring and it's good.  I grounded to the battery.

Checked the OEM 3-pin socket and the ground is in the right place but the other wires are a black at power and grey at output.  The Kisan socket has red at power and black at output.  Kisan instructions state the bikes socket may have reversed polarity.

Of course, their tech support is weekdays only.

Any suggestions on what to look at?

[Dorkman]

Didn't want to use the "scotchloks" t-taps provided,but went ahead with it.

I think you said it already.  The light wiring is thin stranded wire, I believe AWG 20 or 22.  It doesn't hold Scotchloks very well.  Its likely a failure at a Scotchlok connection, or an error in wiring.  Scotchloks, once clamped are difficult to re-do.  Suggest checking your wiring and grounds again, then soldering if it checks out.

[Hook#3287]

Thanks for the reply.

The wiring provided with the unit is VERY thin, but at least they used connectors at the ends, that plug into the T-Tabs.  The OEM wires are much thicker.  I plan on soldering if I get it to work.

The wiring connections are as good as they should be, as designed anyways, cause I'm getting all the lights working and the small diode lights on the unit are lighting up.

The ground is connected right to the battery, as suggested, so I know that's good.

Guess I'll have to wait till Tech support opens up Monday.

I'm wondering if it's the reverse polarity, but how do I know unless I switch the wires.  Doing that means taking one of the plugs apart, which I'm not wanting to do.

Has any one else had this problem?

[indybobm]

The wiring connections are as good as they should be, as designed anyways, cause I'm getting all the lights working and the small diode lights on the unit are lighting up.

Not sure what you mean by the small diode lights lighting up.
I have the SM-3 which is the unit listed for the Valk and I do not believe mine has any lights on it.

By diode lights, have you replaced the Turn Signal Indicator Light with a LED bulb?

Are you using the SM-3?
 

[MarkT]

Didn't want to use the "scotchloks" t-taps provided,but went ahead with it.

I think you said it already.  The light wiring is thin stranded wire, I believe AWG 20 or 22.  It doesn't hold Scotchloks very well.  Its likely a failure at a Scotchlok connection, or an error in wiring.  Scotchloks, once clamped are difficult to re-do.  Suggest checking your wiring and grounds again, then soldering if it checks out.

I'd add - but you probably know this already - once you get it properly connected with soldering and shrink wrap, replace or just shorten the wire sections where you used Scotchlocks and damaged the wires.  They won't carry as much current now at the damaged spots and that's before corrosion and heating from resistance goes to work on those spots.  You have another failure that will show up later.

[Hook#3287]

The wiring connections are as good as they should be, as designed anyways, cause I'm getting all the lights working and the small diode lights on the unit are lighting up.

Not sure what you mean by the small diode lights lighting up.
I have the SM-3 which is the unit listed for the Valk and I do not believe mine has any lights on it.

By diode lights, have you replaced the Turn Signal Indicator Light with a LED bulb?

Are you using the SM-3?
 

Yeah, it's the SM-3.  I don't know if SM-3 refers to the adapter or the controller or both.

The documentation calls it the "SM-1234 Controller".

I guess diode isn't the correct term.  The documentation calls them "STATUS LED" and they are in the rear panel of the SM-1234. 

[Hook#3287]

Didn't want to use the "scotchloks" t-taps provided,but went ahead with it.

I think you said it already.  The light wiring is thin stranded wire, I believe AWG 20 or 22.  It doesn't hold Scotchloks very well.  Its likely a failure at a Scotchlok connection, or an error in wiring.  Scotchloks, once clamped are difficult to re-do.  Suggest checking your wiring and grounds again, then soldering if it checks out.

I'd add - but you probably know this already - once you get it properly connected with soldering and shrink wrap, replace or just shorten the wire sections where you used Scotchlocks and damaged the wires.  They won't carry as much current now at the damaged spots and that's before corrosion and heating from resistance goes to work on those spots.  You have another failure that will show up later.

Thanks Mark, that's my plan if I get it to work right.

I'll solder and shrink warp it all after cutting about 2' of wire.