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Author Topic: Rear Wheel Bearing  (Read 1250 times)
F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501
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Posts: 88


Bakersfield, CA.


« on: October 02, 2014, 02:09:15 PM »

So my 98 Std has 154k and she's starting to develop some little things here and there. Hell, I'm 49 with less miles and I'm tore back like a bad hang nail! Anyway, I recently read a post about a suspected bad rear wheel bearing. Lo and behold, mine went out the other day too. So I break her down and the left side bearing race fell out. Only 15 balls though. Hmm, wonder where #16 went? I knock out the remainder of the races and go to the right side. It was the exact same bearing. The expoded view diagram on Direct Line shows 2 different bearings. So, could this be an issue? Or can I replace with what came out? I went to a local bearing distributor in Bakersfield and they wanted $65 each and 3 days shipping. I can do that with Direct Line. Thanks in advance for everyones knowledge and support. It makes me crazy when I cant ride. I only get about 300 riding days a year and every day is precious..
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F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501
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Bakersfield, CA.


« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2014, 02:15:33 PM »

My bad. I don't know where my head was. I wrote 98 Std. I have a 98 Tourer. Damn Flintstone fingers doing what they want. 
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2014, 02:17:11 PM »

If they were the same, it sounds like it has had the double row bearing mod done to it.  I take it you are not the original owner?

Originally the left side is a single row bearing and the right side is a double row.
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Troy, MI
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14785


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2014, 02:24:45 PM »

You need to determine exactly what was there on the left side.  If the bearing mod was done, then most likely there was no OE dust seal and the hat shaped spacer that goes on behind the caliper plate would necessarily been ground down a bit.  Get a OE measurement and compare.  Now, if some bone head put a left bearing in the right side and the correct left on the left, well, then there was to much play in the spacer inside the final drive, the splines may have suffered if that really happened.

Get the facts
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F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501
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Posts: 88


Bakersfield, CA.


« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2014, 02:43:46 PM »

No, my Dad bought her new in 98. I took her over after his passing in 08.
He must have done the bearing mod. When I dug the remains out, I was able to positively ID the 2 bearings share the same Mfg and part #'s. The spacer must have been machined down. And I'll ignore the bonehead comment. But I know what you're saying.
So with that being said, for sure I can order 2 right side double roller bearings from Direct Line and install with no issue. Correct?
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F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501
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Posts: 88


Bakersfield, CA.


« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2014, 02:48:07 PM »

So when the bearing mod is complete, there is no need/use for the dust seal?  Is this because the  double roller  bearing takes up the  space?
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2014, 03:53:55 PM »

No, my Dad bought her new in 98. I took her over after his passing in 08.
He must have done the bearing mod. When I dug the remains out, I was able to positively ID the 2 bearings share the same Mfg and part #'s. The spacer must have been machined down. And I'll ignore the bonehead comment. But I know what you're saying.
So with that being said, for sure I can order 2 right side double roller bearings from Direct Line and install with no issue. Correct?

correct.

So when the bearing mod is complete, there is no need/use for the dust seal?  Is this because the  double roller  bearing takes up the  space?

There is still a need for the dust seal, just no room.  What I did on two of these mods so far (and they are still working fine) is after installing the bearings, clean the wheel hub around the bearing (remove all dirt, oil, and or grease, put the axle back in, lay the wheel on a horizontal surface, right side down, put the dust seal on with the spacer in place to locate the seal, use some strips of plastic (old milk jug or whatever) to wrap around the wheel hub and create a mold, then use JB weld or epoxy to fill between the seal and the mold.  Let it set up and remove the mold, file or shape as needed. 
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Troy, MI
eric in md
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ride hard now we all can rest when were gone !!!

in the mountains .......cumberland md


« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2014, 04:37:45 PM »

or go to a bearing house and buy the same bearing only sealed.. 5204zz  i think  its a sealed bearing
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #8 on: October 02, 2014, 04:54:52 PM »

or go to a bearing house and buy the same bearing only sealed.. 5204zz  i think  its a sealed bearing

They're already sealed.
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Troy, MI
eric in md
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Posts: 2495


ride hard now we all can rest when were gone !!!

in the mountains .......cumberland md


« Reply #9 on: October 02, 2014, 05:17:15 PM »

opps  cooldude
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2014, 11:16:33 AM »

The riders that do the double bearing modification accept the loss of the seal due to the added thickness of the double row bearing and rely upon the seal in the new bearing to accomplish the task of keeping crud out of the bearing, not to forget water, the worst thing for bearings.

There is some help in this contamination area from utilizing a Nilos Ring. Easy to find on the web and you can look for more info.

http://www.skf.com/us/products/other-products/nilos-rings/index.html

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501
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Posts: 88


Bakersfield, CA.


« Reply #11 on: October 03, 2014, 08:26:52 PM »

This is interesting to read. Today I was cleaning up the mess from crud, grease and road grime and saw a dust seal in the midst of ball bearings, races and such. It appeared to have been pushed out as it was completely intact. I have had this back wheel off 2 other times for tire replacement and pinion cup and shaft replacement and have not noticed this before. My Dad must have done the bearing mod right because each time I remove the wheel and final drive to regrease, I always thouroughly clean eberything prior to assembly. I just like things to be clean and it's a good time fore inspection as well. When I'm ready for reassembly, I'll mock up the seal and axel just for S&G.
Thanks brothers, for all your help.
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Brian
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2014, 04:12:12 PM »

When using the nilos ring the thickness of this ring should be included when machining the bushing. Correct? The SKF double row bearings I used were sealed. To add another layer of water protection I cleaned the exterior surface of the bearing and the wheel and lightly coated it with clear silicone sealant but not where the bushing touches the bearing. It should be noted here that I never use a hose or pressure washer when cleaning my scooter. So far so good in the 4 months of riding and the silicone sealant is still in place.
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