franco6
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« on: October 04, 2014, 07:48:08 AM » |
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Happened last night, no head light no tach or meter nor neutral lights .Fuses check out fine . Suspect ignition switch. Any ideas?
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Enjoy the ride!
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Attic Rat
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Posts: 446
VRCC # 1962
Tulsa, OK
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« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2014, 08:26:58 AM » |
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I had one in the shop this week that did the same thing. I checked everything. I started at the battery it checked 12.6 every time I checked it. It even checked good across the big fuse too. I clean the battery cables on both ends, then the starter relay but still nothing. Next I moved on to the starter switch and I clean and service it. I even went into the headlight bucket. It turn out to be the battery. It had an internal short. I replace the battery and all is well again.
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« Last Edit: October 04, 2014, 08:32:19 AM by Attic Rat »
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The Attic Rat Performance Works
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2014, 08:55:37 AM » |
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Readers Digest version; try to jump from a known working battery (your car not running).
You said it happened last night, but you didn't say what you where doing at the time. Driving, trying to start the bike or ?
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« Last Edit: October 04, 2014, 04:13:49 PM by gordonv »
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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old2soon
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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2014, 09:39:25 AM » |
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If that happened while you were riding you have an electrical supply issue. In my case-bad alt which in turn took out the battery. Check all grounds and the fuses but with instruments AND headlights crapping out sounds like it MIGHT be the alt. Charge the battery overnight and check voltage on it and if 12.6 or so put in M/C start M/C and running at about 2500 R P M should be in the 14 volt area. Year and mileage of your gal to please. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam. VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2014, 11:20:10 AM » |
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Pull the fuses in the six fuse block, turn on the ignition and check the hot side of the fuse holders to see which get power. If it is consistent with the list below, i.e. all the circuits within only one of the ignition circuits are dead, then either wiring (or connections) from the ignition switch or the switch itself is bad.
IG1: Fuse B (top fuse) - Turn, Stop, Horn Fuse D (5th from top) - Starter, Ignition
IG2: Fuse A (6th from top) - Acc. Term. Fuse C (3rd from top) - Headlight Fuse F (2nd from top) - Taillight, Meters
Fan (4th from top)
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franco6
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« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2014, 02:14:38 PM » |
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Rode to work that s when I realised the tach was off ,came home past 11.00 pm with a small flash light in my mouth and the brakes on alternatively. the battery is two month old, a gel type , and the alternator is a year old from the honda shop in indianola ,Iowa . course they sold me a brand new battery too that lasted one year 
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Paxton
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« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2014, 03:41:37 PM » |
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J. Paxton Gomez
1966 First year Bronco... 302 CI V8 1975 First year Chrysler Cordoba... 360 CI V8 1978 Honda 750F / Cafe Racer 2000 GL1500CY Fast-Black Standard Solo Rider
So Cal... 91205
"Four wheels move the body; two wheels move the soul."
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franco6
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« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2014, 08:04:59 PM » |
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Got the switch out but Iam supriised by the special star head screws with the rise, bump in the middle to take it apart.Never seen anything like that before. does honda have a special tool or is this a throw away buy another one sort of deal? I ve rebuilt the ST 1100 switch before . Anyway got a new one on the way. guess I ll have to drill these ones out and replace them with regular screws for a spare (like the petcock) 
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MarkT
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Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2014, 10:40:14 PM » |
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Go to Harbor Freight and get their "security bit set". Has all the bits for those weird security fasteners. I use mine a lot.
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Len
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« Reply #9 on: October 09, 2014, 12:11:21 PM » |
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Same problem, checked everything....battery showed indicated fully charged when charged/checked, but would not take any load.
New battery and all is fine again.
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Yfx4
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« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2014, 04:46:23 AM » |
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If you killed a battery in 1 year I would check everything in the charging circuits. The battery could have been faulty but it cannot hurt to check out the parts that could fry the battery.
cars and bikes may be different but the principles are common. My 1970 mustang had a bad alternator that burned up a new battery. I discovered this at 1 am in the middle of Ohio.......
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate 2007 VTX 1800R DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
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franco6
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« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2014, 05:57:46 AM » |
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The new used switch from pinwall did the trick, all s well .I suspect the battery from the dealer in IOWA was not new cause they did not charge it and was ready to go in ten minutes.But we were at their mercy and looks as if they showed none Better get the old alternator rebuilt for a spare  getting the old dark side off this morning ,got 35 k miles out of it 
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Enjoy the ride!
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