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Author Topic: no lights,meters.  (Read 1245 times)
franco6
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Posts: 1029


Houston, TX


« on: October 04, 2014, 07:48:08 AM »

Happened last night, no head light no tach or meter  nor neutral lights .Fuses check out fine .
Suspect ignition switch. Any ideas?
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Attic Rat
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VRCC # 1962

Tulsa, OK


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« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2014, 08:26:58 AM »

I had one in the  shop this week that did the same thing. I checked everything. I started at the battery it checked 12.6 every time I checked it. It even checked good across the big fuse too. I clean the battery cables on both ends, then the starter relay but still nothing. Next I moved on to the starter switch and I clean and service it. I even went into the headlight bucket. It turn out to be the battery. It had an internal short. I replace the battery and all is well again.

« Last Edit: October 04, 2014, 08:32:19 AM by Attic Rat » Logged

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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2014, 08:55:37 AM »

Readers Digest version; try to jump from a known working battery (your car not running).

You said it happened last night, but you didn't say what you where doing at the time. Driving, trying to start the bike or ?
« Last Edit: October 04, 2014, 04:13:49 PM by gordonv » Logged

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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2014, 09:39:25 AM »

If that happened while you were riding you have an electrical supply issue. In my case-bad alt which in turn took out the battery. Check all grounds and the fuses but with instruments AND headlights crapping out sounds like it MIGHT be the alt. Charge the battery overnight and check voltage on it and if 12.6 or so put in M/C start M/C and running at about 2500 R P M should be in the 14 volt area. Year and mileage of your gal to please. RIDE SAFE.
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Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2014, 11:20:10 AM »

Pull the fuses in the six fuse block, turn on the ignition and check the hot side of the fuse holders to see which get power.  If it is consistent with the list below, i.e. all the circuits within only one of the ignition circuits are dead, then either wiring (or connections) from the ignition switch or the switch itself is bad.

IG1:  Fuse B (top fuse) - Turn, Stop, Horn
        Fuse D (5th from top) - Starter, Ignition

IG2:  Fuse A (6th from top) - Acc. Term.
        Fuse C (3rd from top) - Headlight
        Fuse F (2nd from top) - Taillight, Meters

Fan (4th from top)
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franco6
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Houston, TX


« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2014, 02:14:38 PM »

Rode to work that s when I realised the tach was off ,came home past 11.00 pm with a small flash light in my mouth and the brakes on alternatively.
the battery is two month old, a gel type , and the alternator is a year old from the honda shop in indianola ,Iowa . course they sold me a brand new battery too that lasted one year tickedoff
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Paxton
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So Cal


« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2014, 03:41:37 PM »

I posted the same problem as it happened to me last Saturday night. Angry Sad
I was lucky. In my case, one of the battery cables had come loose. That was all. Embarrassed cooldude
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J. Paxton Gomez

1966 First year Bronco... 302 CI V8
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franco6
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Houston, TX


« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2014, 08:04:59 PM »

Got the switch out but Iam supriised by the special star head screws with the rise, bump in the middle to take it apart.Never seen anything like that before. does honda have a special tool or is this a throw away buy another one sort of deal?
I ve rebuilt the ST 1100 switch before . Anyway got a new one on the way. guess I ll have to drill these ones out and replace them with regular screws for a spare (like the petcock) Grin
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

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« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2014, 10:40:14 PM »

Go to Harbor Freight and get their "security bit set".  Has all the bits for those weird security fasteners.  I use mine a lot.
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Len
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« Reply #9 on: October 09, 2014, 12:11:21 PM »

Same problem, checked everything....battery showed indicated fully charged when charged/checked, but would not take any load.

New battery and all is fine again.
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Yfx4
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Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2014, 04:46:23 AM »

If you killed a battery in 1 year I would check everything in the charging circuits. The battery could have been faulty but it cannot hurt to check out the parts that could fry the battery.

cars and bikes may be different but the principles are common. My 1970 mustang had a bad alternator that burned up a new battery. I discovered this at 1 am in the middle of Ohio.......
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franco6
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Posts: 1029


Houston, TX


« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2014, 05:57:46 AM »

The new used switch from pinwall did the trick, all s well .I suspect the battery from the dealer in IOWA was not new cause they did not charge it and was ready to go in ten minutes.But we were at their mercy and looks as if they showed none uglystupid2
Better get the old alternator rebuilt for a spare 2funny
getting the old dark side off this morning ,got 35 k miles out of it cooldude
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