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Author Topic: How to remove IS fairing screw inserts?  (Read 1538 times)
Yfx4
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Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« on: October 04, 2014, 08:30:33 AM »

On my interstate fairing a couple of the  brass inserts have damaged threads.  They are still firmly attached.

How can I remove them to install new ones without damaging the fairing itself?
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2007 VTX 1800R
DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
Michvalk
Member
*****
Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2014, 08:40:02 AM »

There are several posts on the subject in the tech pages. I just pulled them out intact (carefully) and used pliers to hold them while I turned the screws. I used JB weld to re-install them, and used anti-seze to keep them from sticking again. Careful not to get JB weld in the threads cooldude
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2014, 09:01:28 AM »

I think no matter what or how you remove them, the hole will enlarge to the point the new ones will go in too easy and may even spin when trying to put the screw in.

Try one, and see how it is.

I don't know if you could rebuild the hole by applying a slurry of ABS plastic into the hole and drill it out to the correct size to receive the insert. Wouldn't need much, just a Q-tip and paint it on inside.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2014, 09:32:45 AM »

I used a butter knife to apply pressure and got the insert to come out with the little machine bolt. Knife between the fairing and speaker housing. Twisting the knife to help expand the gap. Then holding the insert after removal with my smallest vise grips and backing the bolt out. I J B welded the inserts back into the fairing being EXTRA careful to keep the threads clear of that stuff then used anti seize to reinstall. The inserts and machine bolts/screws are available from Honda. If the insert holes are oversized and need resizing consider black hardening A B S cement/glue. How ever you reinstall the inserts make cursed sure to keep the threads clean. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Yfx4
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Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2014, 11:36:00 AM »

All good ideas.  I have some loose ones wit ok threads I have put back with jbweld   just fine.  I have a couple with banged up threads that I want to replace with new inserts. These inserts are tight.

I could get a 5mm bolt and drive it in to spin the brass.  I am reluctant to do that since they are the upper outboard spots where the fairing can bend a lot.
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2007 VTX 1800R
DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2014, 12:28:42 PM »

All good ideas.  I have some loose ones wit ok threads I have put back with jbweld   just fine.  I have a couple with banged up threads that I want to replace with new inserts. These inserts are tight.

I could get a 5mm bolt and drive it in to spin the brass.  I am reluctant to do that since they are the upper outboard spots where the fairing can bend a lot.
I don't know if I'd do that, you might crack something.
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Yfx4
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Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2014, 01:22:28 PM »

Exactly my concern.
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2007 VTX 1800R
DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
Michvalk
Member
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Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2014, 02:45:02 PM »

The only way to get them out if they are tight is to screw the screw in and grab the head and pull them out. You might be able to buy a tap to chase the threads with, but , bet they come loose trying. Worth a shot. And you are right, the fairing is a little delicate without the inner fairing in place cooldude
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #8 on: October 04, 2014, 02:53:52 PM »

It would be a good thing, to look at them with a magnifying glass and a strong light.

Those are brass and probably would have ripped out of the plastic fairing before the threads

are damaged. I'd look to repair them (the threads) any way I could, before tearing them out again

from the fairing. Especially so, since they're attached in there so firmly now.

Just my opinion.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Jess from VA
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Posts: 30481


No VA


« Reply #9 on: October 04, 2014, 03:58:24 PM »

Once the brass anchors spin in the plastic, the only thing to do is to pull them out, to glue/JB Weld them (or new ones if buggered up) back in place solidly. 

The more you keep turning them in the plastic (with or without pulling on them), the more likely you will augur out the fairing holes to a larger size.  Put a tool on them and yank them straight out.  Then JB them back in.

I think this happens to more IS's than not eventually (often on a windshield change).  Invariably only some but not all the anchors are spinning, and it may be worth considering yanking them all out to reglue, while you are already having so much fun.  I didn't.... if it ain't broke (it'll break later).
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Dusty
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Posts: 380


Mill Bay B.C.


« Reply #10 on: October 04, 2014, 07:15:43 PM »

The inserts have 4 slots cut on the side of the insert. There is a little brass plate inside the insert that slides in the slot. As you screw in the screw it pushes the brass plate down which causes the bottom of the insert to expand into the plastic . I would try and repair the threads with a " bottoming tap".  They should be available at NAPA.

Dusty
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Yfx4
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Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« Reply #11 on: October 04, 2014, 10:54:29 PM »

I have a bottom tap from fastenal....... I will give it  a try.
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2007 VTX 1800R
DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
Yfx4
Member
*****
Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2014, 11:35:38 AM »

all good.  Retapped  one,  replaced 3.
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2007 VTX 1800R
DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
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