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Author Topic: Interstate rear wheel removal  (Read 2369 times)
Yfx4
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Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« on: October 10, 2014, 05:28:03 PM »

I have seen several methods to remove the rear whell on valks without dropping the exhaust.

What works best for my interstate?
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2007 VTX 1800R
DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
Jess from VA
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Posts: 30481


No VA


« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2014, 06:03:44 PM »

Follow this:

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

Bike on jack (low), remove bags, remove shocks, lower bike (raising wheel up into fender well) till axle will come out (just) over the bag mounts, tie up brake caliper (no hanging on brake line), separate pumpkin from wheel (there's a notch in the dust cover to pry on if you need to), raise bike high enough to drop wheel out the bottom (without removing exhaust or lower fender half).

With shocks off, swingarm swings free, take care to not put undue stress on the Ujoint when swingarm is not level (and Ujoint kinked); and leave bike in gear, turning the wheel with Ujoint kinked (swingarm low) is not good either.

Now on some bikes, with the shocks off, raising and lowering the bike causes the pumpkin to hit the inside of the exhaust cans.  So loosen the rear exhaust bolts (rear foot peg location), and gently spread the cans out a little (maybe an inch or less) with blocks of wood or something.  No need to loosen the header nuts, no undue stress on them (and the studs like to break).

Seems to me the TX crowd has wrench parties.  Why not join in?
« Last Edit: October 10, 2014, 06:11:19 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14785


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2014, 06:24:50 PM »

I have seen several methods to remove the rear whell on valks without dropping the exhaust.

What works best for my interstate?

Just pick one and try it, the one you like the best is the one that is best for you
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Yfx4
Member
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Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2014, 03:30:48 AM »

Awesome.

thank you.

just pick.one? Sure. But why reinvent when people with more experience can help?

I missed the last wrench party. I dont wanna wait until the next one.
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2007 VTX 1800R
DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
Chrisj CMA
Member
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Posts: 14785


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2014, 05:36:03 AM »

Awesome.

thank you.

just pick.one? Sure. But why reinvent when people with more experience can help?

I missed the last wrench party. I dont wanna wait until the next one.

Well, Im sorry, I thought you said you SAW several methods.  That link to my slide show is for a standard with soft bags.  What I do may not be best on an interstate unless all the bags are removed
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PAVALKER
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Posts: 4435


Retired Navy 22YOS, 2014 Valkyrie , VRCC# 27213

Pittsburgh, Pa


« Reply #5 on: October 11, 2014, 06:07:35 AM »

I just remove the bags using the small 4 bolts inside the bag, leaving the bracket.  I don't remove the rear shocks but I remove the bottom shock bolt so the rear end can drop.   I remove the rear exhaust stud nuts and pry the exhaust out a bit at that point using a screwdriver and slip an old nut in between the exhaust and bracket....just enough to pull the studs of the way so the swing arm can swing past the exhaust studs.  No need to remove the exhaust. 

Recommend you also download the service manual for reference of some procedures and torque values.  There are short cuts like what we indicate above that the service manual doesn't discuss, and you can find those here, or on your own.
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John                           
T-Bird
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Cleveland, Tennessee


« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2014, 05:49:52 PM »

+1 on what PAVALKER does
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Red Diamond
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Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #7 on: October 11, 2014, 06:28:51 PM »

I just remove the bags using the small 4 bolts inside the bag, leaving the bracket.  I don't remove the rear shocks but I remove the bottom shock bolt so the rear end can drop.   I remove the rear exhaust stud nuts and pry the exhaust out a bit at that point using a screwdriver and slip an old nut in between the exhaust and bracket....just enough to pull the studs of the way so the swing arm can swing past the exhaust studs.  No need to remove the exhaust. 

Recommend you also download the service manual for reference of some procedures and torque values.  There are short cuts like what we indicate above that the service manual doesn't discuss, and you can find those here, or on your own.
+2, have done this many times, don't worry about resting the swing arm on the U-joint, you won't hurt a thing.
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If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
Yfx4
Member
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Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2014, 10:44:09 AM »

Awesome. Thank you. I pulled the left bag when I changed the NASTY CHUNKY brake fluid. Used an entire bottle of DOT 4 in each line before it came clean. The sight glasses were black--I could not see the silver disk at all. Given that kind of non-care I want to check the rear end lube/wear before I ride it much.

Carbs were rebuilt and sync'd, new battery, new air cleaner. I replaced the rad cap.

As far as seeing techniques.....some I read, some YouTube......did not find anything IS specific that did not involve dropping the exhaust.

On my VTX I flipped the exhaust hanger bolts when I went DS. Makes R/R of the rear wheel so much easier with the long end of the bolt sticking out rather than in.....it is hidden under the pipes so it is not noticeable. Can that be done on the Valk?

I have the manual from the Norway site. Service manuals are the first thing I get for any of my vehicles.
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2007 VTX 1800R
DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
Chrisj CMA
Member
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Posts: 14785


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2014, 02:00:12 PM »

Awesome. Thank you. I pulled the left bag when I changed the NASTY CHUNKY brake fluid. Used an entire bottle of DOT 4 in each line before it came clean. The sight glasses were black--I could not see the silver disk at all. Given that kind of non-care I want to check the rear end lube/wear before I ride it much.

Carbs were rebuilt and sync'd, new battery, new air cleaner. I replaced the rad cap.

As far as seeing techniques.....some I read, some YouTube......did not find anything IS specific that did not involve dropping the exhaust.

On my VTX I flipped the exhaust hanger bolts when I went DS. Makes R/R of the rear wheel so much easier with the long end of the bolt sticking out rather than in.....it is hidden under the pipes so it is not noticeable. Can that be done on the Valk?

I have the manual from the Norway site. Service manuals are the first thing I get for any of my vehicles.

Quote
I have seen several methods to remove the rear whell on valks without dropping the exhaust.

Cant read yer mind.  Just what you type.  Good luck
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Yfx4
Member
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Posts: 147


North of Dallas TX


« Reply #10 on: October 13, 2014, 04:41:04 PM »

Not asking anyone to read my mind. i need to be clearer. I truly appreciate the guidance,
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2007 VTX 1800R
DW rides a 2010 Spyder RT
BF
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Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2014, 04:46:26 PM »

Rear Wheel Removalpowered by Aeva
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Raverez
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No good deed goes unpunished

Central New York State


« Reply #12 on: October 14, 2014, 10:13:11 PM »



When I had my I/S I remove the bags and the tray then followed Dag's  video. Gets easier with practice.
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