Another timing belt question..

[drbremnes]

Hello everybody!

I´m a new Valkyrie owner, got my 98 Standard cream/maroon Valk this august and have loved it from the moment I got it. I live in Norway, but the bike is a US import. I believed it was purchased from a dealer in Denver. It sat it a garage from it was imported in 2008 until this april, and has since been ridden only aprox. 2000 miles. It now has a grand total of 6000 miles. A very low milage bike in other words. Since I bought it from a friend of mine I´ve had to change out the fuel petcock, which I understand is a common problem on these bikes.

Now on to my question. I´ve spent a few hours searching this amazing forum regarding timing belts and what to do with them. My bike only has 6000 miles, but it is 16 years old and was not ridden for 6 years. Since my assumption is that age is equally as important as milage regarding the condition of timing belts I want to get them replaced. My question is, what other parts should I buy before starting the job? Getting parts shipped to Northern Norway (Tromsø) where I live takes 2-3 weeks, so I need to have the parts I may need ready when I start. Should I buy/replace:

1) Timing belt tensioners? From what I can tell, these can start squeeking when they get old, so I assume these would be smart to replace? Should i also replace the two springs?

2) Timing belt pulleys? (The sprockets on which the timing belts run, I believe there are a total of four) Do these contain a wheel bearing? If they don´t, I assume they will be OK with only some light cleaning?

3) Timing belt cover gasket? (Should I assume the old one will need to be replaced? Is it split into two parts since partzilla.com says I need two?)

4) The one bolt with locktite? (Has any of you had it break when disassembling? It is a cheap part so I assume it could be smart to have on hand?)

Any other tips or tricks I should know of? Those of you who has used only the tension from the timing belt pulleys when reassempling after timing belt swap, has this been enough? I´ve read a few posts saying to put a little extra tension on the pulley before tightening the bolts.

Thanks!
Oeyvind Bremnes

[Patrick]

With the low mileage I don't think I'd worry about the belts, just check the adjustment. I like to run a bit looser than recommended, it keeps them quieter.
But, if you want to change them, I don't think you'll need any other parts.
Just make sure the pulleys don't move. And even then make sure the alignment marks are correct before running the engine. We don't want any belts being a tooth off.

[Thunderbolt]

I broke the one that has Loctite on it.  I bought a new one but have not replaced it yet, I just coverd the hole on the case with some sealer.  It has been suggested that if the engine is hot before you try to remove it the heat will soften the Loctite.

[spiceygoat]

I bought my bike with 12,000 miles and replaced the timing belts after I bought it. The old belts looked new. I replaced the tensioners and springs while I was doing it for piece of mind eventhough they also looked new. I had 1 cover bolt break (not the one with thread sealant) so you may want to order spares for the different size bolts.

On a side note, I also replaced the water pump as well. There was nothing wrong with the old one, I just did it since the old one was 17 years old.  Make sure you use a silicate free coolant when refilling the radiator. I also drained the oil before removing the pump and did an oil change since the oil will drain when you remove the pump.

[John Schmidt]

FWIW....I don't use Locktite on that one bolt, just a good gasket sealer. Never a problem. If you do decide to replace the belts, just order Gates brand belts at your local auto parts store...it's the same belt with a much lower price. As for the tensioners, I wouldn't bother with replacement, they seldom go bad and there's a way to rebuild them for a lot less than buying new. Just make sure they're clean. If you get them too tight they will squeal at highway speed RPM so just loosen and let the springs do the job of setting the tension. They're the only pulleys associated with the belts that have bearings. The "toothed" sprockets are bolted solid....and there's only two, one for each cam. When you tighten down the cover bolts, just snug is fine. Don't test your biceps on them.    Here's a link to a list of generic parts you can use that are much cheaper than buying the same thing from Honda. Hope this helps.


http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

[Gryphon Rider]

I bought my bike with 12,000 miles and replaced the timing belts after I bought it. The old belts looked new. I replaced the tensioners and springs while I was doing it for piece of mind eventhough they also looked new. I had 1 cover bolt break (not the one with thread sealant) so you may want to order spares for the different size bolts.

On a side note, I also replaced the water pump as well. There was nothing wrong with the old one, I just did it since the old one was 17 years old.  Make sure you use a silicate free coolant when refilling the radiator. I also drained the oil before removing the pump and did an oil change since the oil will drain when you remove the pump.

Next time you have a pile of money for Valkyrie parts, please send it to me.  I can promise you it will only be spent on parts that actually need replacing.  And you'll be saving the environment by not consuming the natural resources used to produce new parts that are replacing perfectly good old parts.  ???

[Patrick]

I've never broken one of those bolts, but, that doesn't mean much I guess. The upper one that sometimes gets into the passage I thought was suppose to have a dab of flex sealer on it not lock-tite. I put a dab of never-seize on the bolts/screws.

[Bone]

I just did it since the old one was 17 years old.

I've always wondered if the spare part isn't as old as the old part.
Not much reason to mfg. most parts of discontinued models.
Having a back-up parts stock is comforting.

[gordonv]

I've never broken one of those bolts, but, that doesn't mean much I guess. The upper one that sometimes gets into the passage I thought was suppose to have a dab of flex sealer on it not lock-tite. I put a dab of never-seize on the bolts/screws.

First question is do you have lots of money? If so, then buy all new parts, so you have everything on hand IF you need it.

Search for what John mentioned, about rebuilding the tensioners instead, and see if you can get the parts.

As for changing the belts or not. I thought it was said that if the belt sits flexed for so long, it is more likely to break than one being used periodically. So with only 6K it's been sitting. I changed my GL1500 GW at 61K miles and 26 years. But it is cheap insurance if you buy the Gates replacement belt instead. By the time you check you belts, you might as well replace them.

As for bolts, can't you just buy something local?

Gasket, is used to keep the front clean/dry, and doesn't seal any oil or anything, so you could almost place it back on, and replace it later.

[sandy]

My Tourer has 145K and is 16 years old. One set of belts and the original gasket. The one bolt in question needs a thread sealant good for oil, not locktite: yes, warm the engine before removal. Belt number is T275 at most auto supplies. My belt tensioners are original as well.

[Patrick]

I've never broken one of those bolts, but, that doesn't mean much I guess. The upper one that sometimes gets into the passage I thought was suppose to have a dab of flex sealer on it not lock-tite. I put a dab of never-seize on the bolts/screws.

First question is do you have lots of money? If so, then buy all new parts, so you have everything on hand IF you need it.

Search for what John mentioned, about rebuilding the tensioners instead, and see if you can get the parts.

As for changing the belts or not. I thought it was said that if the belt sits flexed for so long, it is more likely to break than one being used periodically. So with only 6K it's been sitting. I changed my GL1500 GW at 61K miles and 26 years. But it is cheap insurance if you buy the Gates replacement belt instead. By the time you check you belts, you might as well replace them.

As for bolts, can't you just buy something local?

Gasket, is used to keep the front clean/dry, and doesn't seal any oil or anything, so you could almost place it back on, and replace it later.

??????????

[spiceygoat]

Next time you have a pile of money for Valkyrie parts, please send it to me.  I can promise you it will only be spent on parts that actually need replacing.   And you'll be saving the environment by not consuming the natural resources used to produce new parts that are replacing perfectly good old parts.  ???

Lol. I'll keep that in mind ;-)

My thought process was that It's an interference motor, If the belts break it would cost me a lot more for a new motor. I did the work myself so it probably cost less for all the parts (including the water pump) than a shop would charge someone else to just replace the belts.

The water pump was insurance on a nearly 20 year old bike that had sat most of it's life.  In addition to  corrosion from sitting, I have no way of knowing if the previous owner ever used antifreeze with silicates in it.

With the exception of winter, I ride nearly every day.  I prefer to pay a couple bucks now rather than end up stuck on the side of the road waiting for a tow.

I'm not just replacing random parts for the sake of replacing parts.  I'm replacing parts that are nearly 20 years old, have the potential to fail and cause the need for major engine work.

[RonW]

Dr. Bremnes, how about some pics of your Valk .....

[Firefighter]

All of our bikes are getting old and are basically the same age. I worried and changed my belts at 40,000 miles but they looked brand new. I can't think of a reason to change the pulleys. I would change all fluids and worry more about the tires. This site tells you how to do the job easily.
Welcome,  Firefighter

[drbremnes]

I´ve gone ahead and removed my front cover. Everything looks brand spanking new. I will go ahead and order 2 new timing belts and a few of the cover bolts due to corrosion.

Is there a specific thread sealant any of you recomend? Will this loctite Hight temp. thread sealant do? (and will I be able to loosen the bolt afterwards if needed? http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37398-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002KKTHC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1414581331&sr=8-6&keywords=thread+sealant

Thanks for many great replies. I will post pictures soon.

Øyvind

[Gryphon Rider]

I´ve gone ahead and removed my front cover. Everything looks brand spanking new. I will go ahead and order 2 new timing belts and a few of the cover bolts due to corrosion.

Is there a specific thread sealant any of you recomend? Will this loctite Hight temp. thread sealant do? (and will I be able to loosen the bolt afterwards if needed? http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37398-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002KKTHC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1414581331&sr=8-6&keywords=thread+sealant

Thanks for many great replies. I will post pictures soon.

Øyvind

I would also be concerned about the locking properties of that sealant.  Although expensive, I think this stuff would be a better choice among Loctite products:
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1158514-Water-Jacket-Sealant/dp/B004QXL4F2

[R J]

On all the bolts on the front cover, upon putting the cover back on all I've ever used was anti-seize stuff.

Check them at 3,000 miles and give them a light tug, light one please, this should set the bolts till removal time again.

FORGET that firkin LOCK-TITE crap.   It can cause more problems than a room full of cats wandering around while little old ladies are in their rocking chairs.


 

[Radman]

I swapped out the fluids and timing belts once I bought my used Valkyrie which was 10 years old at the time and had 51K miles on it.  The belts didn't look bad either, but again for that piece of mind thing. 

It's been another 55K miles on it and runs great.

Enjoy your new to you bike!