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Author Topic: removing valve covers  (Read 1317 times)
blackvalkyrie
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Posts: 281


California


« on: November 18, 2014, 04:39:01 PM »

I want to adjust the valves on my 97 Standard, but there seems to be rubber inserts in the screw heads. How do I take them out, and what exactly are they for? just looks? thanks cooldude
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6453


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2014, 04:54:05 PM »

Looks, and keeps the bolt head nice.  Just use the tip of your fingernail and they pop right out.
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2014, 05:27:39 PM »

Or if you don't have fingernails like me. Use a tiny screwdriver, but be careful they like to bounce into thin air.
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2014, 05:48:26 PM »

I used the end of my dull pocket knife.

As for why you want to remove them, do a search. Most have reported that it isn't needed. Unless you can hear something coming from a head, or low compression, don't bother.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

R J
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2014, 05:54:26 PM »

I used the end of my dull pocket knife.

As for why you want to remove them, do a search. Most have reported that it isn't needed. Unless you can hear something coming from a head, or low compression, don't bother.

As I have said several times in the past, if you DO NOT hear a rattle or a hissing of air in the exhaust, don't muck with them.     I have 242K on MGM, and the valves have been adjusted 3 times.     The last time at just under 235K I had one valve out of adjustment.

Go ride the bike instead of screwing around with it and taking a chance of busting something.
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2014, 06:15:04 PM »

Quote
As I have said several times in the past, if you DO NOT hear a rattle or a hissing of air in the exhaust, don't muck with them.     I have 242K on MGM, and the valves have been adjusted 3 times.     The last time at just under 235K I had one valve out of adjustment.

RJ, I'm going to respectfully disagree.  Honda calls for inspection of valve clearance every 12k and although I don't think I've ever heard of a valve failure on this site,  I feel it's cheap insurance and easy to do.  But maybe every 15k would do.

Decades ago when I was working in a Honda shop, valve clearance was part of every tune up.

Now, if I had to pay someone to do it, I probably would agree with you Wink
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2014, 06:19:26 PM »

Quote
As I have said several times in the past, if you DO NOT hear a rattle or a hissing of air in the exhaust, don't muck with them.     I have 242K on MGM, and the valves have been adjusted 3 times.     The last time at just under 235K I had one valve out of adjustment.

RJ, I'm going to respectfully disagree.  Honda calls for inspection of valve clearance every 12k and although I don't think I've ever heard of a valve failure on this site,  I feel it's cheap insurance and easy to do.  But maybe every 15k would do.

Decades ago when I was working in a Honda shop, valve clearance was part of every tune up.

Now, if I had to pay someone to do it, I probably would agree with you Wink
Plus it's a pretty easy job. It's not like other bikes where you had to put in different shims.
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #7 on: November 18, 2014, 06:39:45 PM »

Quote
As I have said several times in the past, if you DO NOT hear a rattle or a hissing of air in the exhaust, don't muck with them.     I have 242K on MGM, and the valves have been adjusted 3 times.     The last time at just under 235K I had one valve out of adjustment.

RJ, I'm going to respectfully disagree.  Honda calls for inspection of valve clearance every 12k and although I don't think I've ever heard of a valve failure on this site,  I feel it's cheap insurance and easy to do.  But maybe every 15k would do.

Decades ago when I was working in a Honda shop, valve clearance was part of every tune up.

Now, if I had to pay someone to do it, I probably would agree with you Wink
Plus it's a pretty easy job. It's not like other bikes where you had to put in different shims.

Vell, it is your choice to wrench on the bike or ride it.    I prefer to ride mine.
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Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #8 on: November 18, 2014, 06:48:30 PM »

I had a mechanic check mine once when he changed timing belts and said I will do it if you want me to but it is a waste of time they will not be out of adjustment and guess what. Not one needed adjustment.
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1999 Interstate (sold)
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blackvalkyrie
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Posts: 281


California


« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2014, 06:59:35 PM »


Ok.. thanks for all the advice everyone... I think I'll just ride till the bike acts up! cooldude

Quote
As I have said several times in the past, if you DO NOT hear a rattle or a hissing of air in the exhaust, don't muck with them.     I have 242K on MGM, and the valves have been adjusted 3 times.     The last time at just under 235K I had one valve out of adjustment.

RJ, I'm going to respectfully disagree.  Honda calls for inspection of valve clearance every 12k and although I don't think I've ever heard of a valve failure on this site,  I feel it's cheap insurance and easy to do.  But maybe every 15k would do.

Decades ago when I was working in a Honda shop, valve clearance was part of every tune up.

Now, if I had to pay someone to do it, I probably would agree with you Wink
Plus it's a pretty easy job. It's not like other bikes where you had to put in different shims.

Vell, it is your choice to wrench on the bike or ride it.    I prefer to ride mine.
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6453


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #10 on: November 18, 2014, 07:20:38 PM »

Quote
Vell, it is your choice to wrench on the bike or ride it.    I prefer to ride mine.

 Grin Grin

Well, got to do something during the long cold winter.
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #11 on: November 18, 2014, 10:09:49 PM »

Quote
Vell, it is your choice to wrench on the bike or ride it.    I prefer to ride mine.

 Grin Grin

Well, got to do something during the long cold winter.

Go out to the garage, jump[ astraddle of the seat.

Grab the handlebars and make VROOM VROOM sounds.      When ya get all done, you can say I rode the bike in the garage.
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97Valk_CT_Euless
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Posts: 167


Euless Tx


« Reply #12 on: November 19, 2014, 06:35:44 AM »

Did mine after I got the bike.  Two were on the outside of spec (tight, actually, makes me think someone was mucking with them).  Personally, I'd check them once, then when they make noise.  Unless you're looking for something to do.  But... I have to say I've done more damage to my bike working on it (scratches etc) than riding it.  I guess I shouldn't admit that.... 
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Black Dog
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VRCC # 7111

Merton Wisconsin 53029


« Reply #13 on: November 19, 2014, 06:57:44 AM »

If ya do take them out, don't lose them...  Evidently they have a mixture of Platinum and 24K Gold in them  Shocked

Here is the part number and price = 5 12392-MJ0-000 PLUG, HEX. (6MM) $3.71

Now multiply by 12 = $44.52

I lost one off my Valk, and asked the parts guy to look one up.  When he said $3.50, I said I only needed one...  He said that is for one  uglystupid2

Black RTV squirted in the hex, then wiped off, works great too  cooldude

Black Dog
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Just when the highway straightened out for a mile
And I was thinkin' I'd just cruise for a while
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Don't you know...

Conform, go crazy, or ride a motorcycle...

Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #14 on: November 19, 2014, 07:32:45 AM »

Some have found, while removing the valve cover, they have damaged the gaskets.

Others doing the same have had problems with oil leaking after reassembly.

Judge accordingly.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Red Diamond
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Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #15 on: November 19, 2014, 07:37:43 AM »

IMHO, if you don't know what those plugs are for and don't know how to remove them, you should stay away from valve or any other kind of adjustments. RJ is correct with his statement.
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If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #16 on: November 19, 2014, 08:56:21 AM »

Take one of those rubber inserts to Ace Hardware or other shop that has a lot of chrome nuts & bolts. You can find chrome plastic plugs that take their place and look a lot nicer.
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #17 on: November 19, 2014, 10:44:11 AM »

Take one of those rubber inserts to Ace Hardware or other shop that has a lot of chrome nuts & bolts. You can find chrome plastic plugs that take their place and look a lot nicer.
I used chrome metal ones.
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #18 on: November 19, 2014, 12:33:36 PM »

IMHO, if you don't know what those plugs are for and don't know how to remove them, you should stay away from valve or any other kind of adjustments. RJ is correct with his statement.





I didn't have the heart to say that. There have been fellas that have really screwed up the adjustment.
« Last Edit: November 19, 2014, 03:36:07 PM by Patrick » Logged
Earl in Pensacola
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Posts: 556


« Reply #19 on: November 19, 2014, 03:11:05 PM »

LOL!!  My very first valve adjustment was the only time an adjustment was needed.  I discovered that they needed adjustment AFTER I adjusted them!!  After that I "stretched" the adjustmt to 25K and none needed, then to 50K, still none needed, then to 100K, same as usual.  It's now at 289K and last adjustmt was about 50K ago.  Just don't be doing "burn-outs and hitting the rev.limiter, but do keep high quality oil  & filter changes on schedule.
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hal47
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Posts: 545

INDIANA


« Reply #20 on: November 19, 2014, 07:28:37 PM »

IMHO, if you don't know what those plugs are for and don't know how to remove them, you should stay away from valve or any other kind of adjustments. RJ is correct with his statement.
[

 laugh/quote]
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DK
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Posts: 616


Little Rock


« Reply #21 on: November 19, 2014, 10:46:35 PM »

Growing up on a cotton farm in the 60's, we had engines everywhere. When I began learning how to adjust valves  as a teenager, I was taught by an experienced farmhand who actually knew how it was done.

Fortunately, he checked behind me the first 3 or 4 times. It was very fortunate that he did.

Do not attempt a valve adjustment on a Valk engine until you log some supervised practice on your lawnmower.
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
art
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Posts: 2737


Grants Pass,Or

Grants Pass,Or


« Reply #22 on: November 20, 2014, 03:57:25 PM »

Quote
Vell, it is your choice to wrench on the bike or ride it.    I prefer to ride mine.

 Grin Grin

Well, got to do something during the long cold winter.

Go out to the garage, jump[ astraddle of the seat.

Grab the handlebars and make VROOM VROOM sounds.      When ya get all done, you can say I rode the bike in the garage.
2funny 2funny 2funny 2funny Then pat the girl on the ass and get back on the forum.
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Brian
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #23 on: November 23, 2014, 06:30:32 AM »

 
IMHO, if you don't know what those plugs are for and don't know how to remove them, you should stay away from valve or any other kind of adjustments. RJ is correct with his statement.
[/quote]
+1  cooldude But every wrench bender needs to start somewhere. I have one suggestion to do this task. Follow the directions in the shop manual exactly.
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MarcusS
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Posts: 311


New To Me August 2013

North Houston


« Reply #24 on: November 23, 2014, 07:05:48 AM »

Never seen the chrome hex covers at the hardware but assume they are similar to one in the front axle fork bolts. I have done valve lash adjustments on diesels and gas tractors, trucks and bikes.  The valk is by far the easiest . I did both of mine within a couple of months ownership.  First was out by .003 and the second was almost right on. Had to replace the gasket on the second one.  You never know what kind of day the last person to set them had. It is a human function that can be messed up. They also break in a little the first 10-20 k miles.  After that, they are fairly solid.  My Cummins truck spec call out to check them every 100K.

Two things to consider.  Over sized gaps loose a tiny amount of power. Close, tight or under gap can cause burnt valves .   I have replaced burnt valves and it is expensive.

Be sure to take your time and go back and check all your work twice before you replace the covers.
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Life goes on whether you are in it for the ride or not.
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #25 on: November 23, 2014, 10:20:19 AM »

Scare words are unnecessary...

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Bert AKA,Valkaholic
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Posts: 1255


Back-N-Black


« Reply #26 on: November 23, 2014, 03:32:44 PM »

You Could Find An Old Detroit To Practice Adjusting The Valves On For Learning Purposes. They Are Very Similar To Our Valkyrie's. Like Most Said Here If It Isn't Broke, Don't Try To Fix It.
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