Another Hitachi bites the dust

[BonS]

Just another alternator failure.

I'm certainly not the first or the last to suffer this. Without a voltmeter I couldn't see it coming. Initially, as we're riding along my Interstate intercom wouldn't let me talk with my passenger. Shortly after that the LCD display started to pulsate on and off, then I noticed the spedo and tach needles doing the same thing. Not good. The engine began to falter very quickly. I think I had about 60-120 seconds of "what the #$%*&@$??" before she died a quick and certain death.

Luckily I was traveling with friends and they soon came back to help. The battery was dead and it wouldn't crank. Knowing nothing for sure, we pulled the battery and headed off for the nearest auto parts store. No luck there as they only had a dry charged battery on hand. So we headed off to wally world and their shelf was empty. Finally, an hour later, we found an AGM battery at an auto parts store and headed back to where we left our group. The battery went right in, the bike started right up, and off we went. . . until the new battery was depleted. Bingo! Alternator.

We stashed the bike out of sight behind an old country building and rode home to get my trailer. Eventually we got the dead bike home safe and sound. Now about that alternator. . .

I happened to have a spare, used, alternator sitting around so I did a quick read of shoptalk and went to work. Luckily it came out easily and the replacement went in without much of a hassle. I quickly grew tired of trying to get the alternator "splines" to line up with the rubber slots so I used a couple of bolts to pull the alternator into its cavity. With a slightly audible POP the alternator pulled in easily. That was surprisingly easy. I got everything buttoned up and put in the old, but now recharged, battery and started her up. Wallah! The replacement alternator is putting out 14+ volts and life is good.

I tore into the old alternator to see if it could be revived and found the rotor windings are open so it's a goner. Now I have to rethink my strategy:

I've put off installing a voltmeter for too long so I'm going to so something about that.

Second, I going to get a small DVM to keep in my tool kit. I hate it when I don't have a meter. My Fluke is too expensive, too big, and wanders around my shop and home to count on it being in a saddle bag when I need it.

I'm thinking about carrying a spare alternator, as some here have done, just in case. It's not that bad of a job and I'd say that it's easier than changing a rear tire on an Interstate with bags, rails, hitch etc.

I'm open to all suggestions and advice!

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

How many miles on the bike ?

[Valker]

If more than one of you on a group ride have the same type bike, you can get where you're going by swapping batteries regularly.

[BonS]

How many miles on the bike ?

It's practically new, about 25K. I sure never saw that coming.

[BonS]

If more than one of you on a group ride have the same type bike, you can get where you're going by swapping batteries regularly.

That's a good idea. If it's daytime I'd pull the headlight fuse as well.

[old2soon]

Only thing I can relate to you is when the alt crapped out on my I/S the L C display was the first thing to show distress. JUST after that happened she started popping and farting and soon after-no tricity-no engine!   When my alt went it took the old battery with it. My rebuilt came from M A R S. STILL running strong. Glad you and yer ride and I'm guessing your bride got home safe.   RIDE SAFE.

[gordonv]

Do you really feel that your alternator will die again? With failure never being a certainty of when, your replacement might last 100K miles before it goes.

If you are going on a long trip, maybe carry it then.

I feel the addition of a voltage meter would be the best thing for all. Any signs of not charging, then pull out the headlight fuse. Like already mentioned, swap batteries with a like type bike in the group if out for a ride together.

I added a Battery Bug to mine.

[Bone]

How many miles can / did you get off a battery not being charged ?
Guess it would depend on how long it's been running without a charge before the problem is discovered.

[IamGCW]

If you have a pigtail for charging the battery maybe this meter would work.  Only about $15.

Battery Tender 081-0157 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with LCD Voltage Display

Gil

[salty1]

I carry one of these, see below.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-92020.html

I also have a volt meter on the bike. It's cheap, but seems to work well.

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Show_Chrome_Accessories_Digital_5_Function_Volt_Me_p/4-239.htm

[Red Diamond]

On my trip this past summer, I installed a new battery and a spare alternator in the bags. I have a lot of confidence in the mechanical durability of the Valkyrie. The alternator, not so much, that is why I have 3 spares. Meters and testers while they serve a useful purpose in the shop, won't do any good on the road, know the signs of when the alt is headed south, the meter display is a dead give away.

[GPz1100]

If you have a pigtail for charging the battery maybe this meter would work.  Only about $15.

Battery Tender 081-0157 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with LCD Voltage Display

Gil

now that's slick

[BobB]

I had an electrical issue on my first road trip with the Valk many years ago.  Luckily, a friend was carrying a multimeter in his MC trailer.  I found a tiny digital multimeter at Radio Shack that I have been carrying since then.  It fits on top of the tools in the tool compartment.

I also added a voltage gauge permanently on the bike.  I highly recommend you have both.

[salty1]

Bond's post and some of the replies have peak my curiosity. Maybe a dumb question but here goes, are alternator failures more prevalent on the IS as compared to a Standard/ Tourer models?

[BonS]

The failure in my alternator was an open circuit of the field windings in the rotor. There are two wires for the field windings. One of them broke right where the wires leave the windings and make their way to the slip rings. I repaired the break and I have continuity to the slip rings once again. Do I trust the repair to hold up like a new one? No, but I'll keep this one as a spare, at no cost, and take it along when I'm pulling my trailer. It'll be my security blanket.



This is good side.


This is the repaired one. The glop that you see is extra thick CA glue. The wires underneath are soldered together.

[BobB]

Bond's post and some of the replies have peak my curiosity. Maybe a dumb question but here goes, are alternator failures more prevalent on the IS as compared to a Standard/ Tourer models?

I have a Tourer and have not had alternator issues.  I inspect it every two years and have had to replace the brushes.  A friend that had a 1500 Wing had issues all the time, one failed on our way out to Sturgis in 2011, a week before he replaced the 1500 with a 1800 Wing.

[old2soon]

What the man at M A R S told me was that Hitachi farmed out the alts to a Chinese firm. The Chinese wire is not as good as the American or the Japanese wire. Hence the broken wires in the field or the rotor. The one I bought from him was totally rewound with American wire. Hope this helps someone.  RIDE SAFE.

[Hoser]

I bought a rebuilt at 100,000 miles to carry on trips, The original is still in it and never been looked at at 132,000.  Hoser

[Texas Cajun]

I have the OEM and it bit the dust today ~49K miles.  I think it has been on the outs ever since I bought the bike (sometimes neutral indicator very bright, sometimes did not light at all).  Anyway, just purchased a replacement from Rare Electrical 85amp output.  Anyone have any experience with these?  Will rebuild the OEM as a spare.

[BonS]

I have the OEM and it bit the dust today ~49K miles.  I think it has been on the outs ever since I bought the bike (sometimes neutral indicator very bright, sometimes did not light at all).  Anyway, just purchased a replacement from Rare Electrical 85amp output.  Anyone have any experience with these?  Will rebuild the OEM as a spare.

I've never heard of Rare Electrical so I visited their website. A Goldwing standard-output alternator can be had for $131 with free shipping. Nice! If you got a high amp alternator I'm sure that you already know that you'll have to re-clock it for the Valkyrie, no big deal. Honestly, I don't know anything about the high amp model. Hopefully it's not any deeper than the standard. Please let us know how it goes.

[Lyle Laun]

Regarding Salty1’s question, The original alternator went on my standard at 45,000 miles. I still have the original in my Interstate at 125,000 miles. I've bought a replacement one from LA Electrical (didn't cost much) that I plan to put in the I/S as I can't see that one going much longer. I use a small voltmeter that plugs in to the cigarette lighter port on my bike to moniter volts which works quite well.

Lyle

[The emperor has no clothes]

I have the OEM and it bit the dust today ~49K miles.  I think it has been on the outs ever since I bought the bike (sometimes neutral indicator very bright, sometimes did not light at all).  Anyway, just purchased a replacement from Rare Electrical 85amp output.  Anyone have any experience with these?  Will rebuild the OEM as a spare.

I've had one in for almost a year and 15k. No problems so far.

[pancho]

The failure in my alternator was an open circuit of the field windings in the rotor. There are two wires for the field windings. One of them broke right where the wires leave the windings and make their way to the slip rings. I repaired the break and I have continuity to the slip rings once again. Do I trust the repair to hold up like a new one? No, but I'll keep this one as a spare, at no cost, and take it along when I'm pulling my trailer. It'll be my security blanket.



This is good side.




This is the repaired one. The glop that you see is extra thick CA glue. The wires underneath are soldered together.

Good Repair,,,,    I've been in electronics most all my life and most transformer and coil failures that I have seen fail right at the junction point just as your rotor did, and not in the middle of the winding... I would also redo the "good" side as your repaired side looks to be a more robust connection than the original, then I don't think you would ever need to think twice about it. THe glue was good to keep the centrifugal force  from lifting the repair,, may want to add it to the other for balancing although I don't think it is enough to cause any problems.

[BonS]

In mechanical engineering terms that's where the stress risers are: the sharp bends, the changes in plane, and possibly some stretching. I'd use a higher temperature glue if I knew of one. And you're right about gluing the other side both for balance and reinforcement.