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Author Topic: coolant leak  (Read 1191 times)
Attic Rat
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VRCC # 1962

Tulsa, OK


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« on: November 30, 2014, 08:03:29 AM »

As I tear down some of these engines to do the performance work, I am starting to see some coolant leaks around the thermostat housing. Turns out that the o ring seal around the thermostat is getting hard and starting to seep. So the next time any of you are into  that area it might be worth your time to change it out.
« Last Edit: November 30, 2014, 08:06:08 AM by Attic Rat » Logged

The Attic Rat Performance Works
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14784


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2014, 08:25:30 AM »

As I tear down some of these engines to do the performance work, I am starting to see some coolant leaks around the thermostat housing. Turns out that the o ring seal around the thermostat is getting hard and starting to seep. So the next time any of you are into  that area it might be worth your time to change it out.


Also I was helping a friend with such a leak and we finally found out the actual thermostat housing was cracked.  Not broken, but more separating on a mold joint.  It was very hard to impossible to see and it didn't leak until the cooling system built up some pressure.  Was aggravating

« Last Edit: November 30, 2014, 08:27:55 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2014, 02:14:15 PM »

Chrisj-i had access to dye penetrant kits while I was in Uncle Sugars Canoe Club. Don't even know if such animals are still available. Cleaned yer part up put the dye on wipe it off and sprayed some white goop on it. The crack showed up red through the white goop. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2014, 03:26:12 PM »

Can you determine the generic size of the O ring and post it/put it on the generic parts page for future reference? It would be good if we can get a replacement in viton or silicone.
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hairyteeth
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NW Ohio


« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2014, 04:42:41 PM »

Thanks for the heads-up! HT
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #5 on: November 30, 2014, 04:42:58 PM »

As I tear down some of these engines to do the performance work, I am starting to see some coolant leaks around the thermostat housing. Turns out that the o ring seal around the thermostat is getting hard and starting to seep. So the next time any of you are into  that area it might be worth your time to change it out.

Hey Bob, that's a great heads up, thanks. cooldude cooldude

Quote
Also I was helping a friend with such a leak and we finally found out the actual thermostat housing was cracked.  Not broken, but more separating on a mold joint.  It was very hard to impossible to see and it didn't leak until the cooling system built up some pressure.  Was aggravating

Hey Chris, that's the cover, not the case?  Also a good heads up. cooldude cooldude
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Attic Rat
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VRCC # 1962

Tulsa, OK


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« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2014, 06:27:29 PM »

Hook you are welcome. For what is worth the o ring is not just an o ring like we think it is . It is a special o ring that is cut on the inside so that it goes around the thermostat and seals both sides. This is going to be a dealer item only.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2014, 06:32:49 PM »

I'll have to look it up but I used one for a Volvo...believe it was.


Found it, on jeffk's generic parts list.

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm
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HayHauler
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Pearland, TX


« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2014, 04:14:40 PM »

From Jeff's parts page...
"Murry 2278 rubber seal from a 1990 Volvo Model 740 with a 2.3 DOHC engine"

Hay Cool
Jimmyt
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VRCC# 28963
John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #9 on: December 01, 2014, 05:41:56 PM »

Aww, c'mon Jimmy, I gave him the entire page to peruse.  2funny  But you're right, that's the one I picked up when I change out my t'stat.  Old one was flat as a pancake too.
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2014, 09:34:42 AM »

Don't think there's any way to find out, but, wondering if the crack was cause by over tightening the bolt?
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2014, 10:00:39 AM »

Don't think there's any way to find out, but, wondering if the crack was cause by over tightening the bolt?
Question already asked and answered.  No it was not caused by overtightening.  I was the one that removed that bolt and it was not very tight, besides theres a metal sleeve inside the hole that would absolutely prevent damage to the plastic unless you cranked on it hard enough to crush the metal sleeve.
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