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« on: December 17, 2014, 01:59:18 PM » |
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am considering adding volt meter ..any suggestions on what kind?How hard are they to wire?? thanks guys.
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a proud navy veteran
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« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2014, 02:02:48 PM » |
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forgot to say but its on a 97 standard..with no additional electrical wired in.
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a proud navy veteran
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2014, 02:13:51 PM » |
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Many use this: http://www.kuryakyn.com/products/872/led-battery-gaugeI wired mine to my accessory terminals so the gauge is only on with the key. One wire to hot, one wire to ground.  Also, scroll down/up to "Voltmeter on an IS".
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« Last Edit: December 17, 2014, 02:15:33 PM by Gryphon Rider »
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BonS
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« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2014, 02:58:55 PM » |
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When I wired my voltmeter I just hooked into the nearest switched 12 volt wire. The problem with that is the voltage drop due to various current loads on the bike's wiring. The voltmeter was reading about 0.5 volts low. Now this may be okay if you have a voltmeter that's just a needle but my voltmeter has built in alarm thresholds to warn me of an electrical failure. It may also bother you if think your battery voltage drops below 12 volts on a regular basis. If you use a Kuryakyn LED meter you may see "condition yellow" more than you like. The answer is to add a relay that connects your battery directly to your voltmeter. The wiring diagrams are shown below.  
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2014, 03:53:26 PM » |
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Volt meters wire up like a light bulb. Don't need a relay or anthing complicated, just one hot lead and one ground. I found the best way to wire them is run a hot lead (with a fuse) to the positive side of the battery and then a ground. I have a switch in the ground so I can turn it on when the bike is off to check the battery. The reason I like direct to the battery is because its a true reading I have a meter from Overtons Boating Catalog. I figure if its for a boat its gonna be pretty darned waterproof  This is with it running 
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« Last Edit: December 19, 2014, 07:26:18 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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BonS
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« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2014, 03:57:07 PM » |
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Volt meters wire up like a light bulb. Don't need a relay or anthing complicated, just one hot lead and one ground. I found the best way to wire them is run a hot lead (with a fuse) to the negative side of the battery and then a ground. I have a switch in the ground so I can turn it on when the bike is off to check the battery. The reason I like direct to the battery is because its a true reading
That's true Chrisj CMA and the relay is just a switch that comes on automatically when the key is turned on.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2014, 04:03:40 PM » |
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Volt meters wire up like a light bulb. Don't need a relay or anthing complicated, just one hot lead and one ground. I found the best way to wire them is run a hot lead (with a fuse) to the negative side of the battery and then a ground. I have a switch in the ground so I can turn it on when the bike is off to check the battery. The reason I like direct to the battery is because its a true reading
That's true Chrisj CMA and the relay is just a switch that comes on automatically when the key is turned on. I don't think the amp draw on a V meter is worth adding a relay but it certainly cant hurt
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BonS
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« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2014, 04:13:49 PM » |
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Volt meters wire up like a light bulb. Don't need a relay or anthing complicated, just one hot lead and one ground. I found the best way to wire them is run a hot lead (with a fuse) to the negative side of the battery and then a ground. I have a switch in the ground so I can turn it on when the bike is off to check the battery. The reason I like direct to the battery is because its a true reading
That's true Chrisj CMA and the relay is just a switch that comes on automatically when the key is turned on. I don't think the amp draw on a V meter is worth adding a relay but it certainly cant hurt It's certainly not the amp draw of the meter, rather it's the voltage drop through the wiring harness caused by all the other engine, lighting and accessory "amp draws" that's the gremlin. My readings were a little over 1/2 volt in error due to this. In any case wiring the voltmeter directly to the battery is the way to go. How you switch it on and off is simply a preference.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2014, 06:16:02 AM » |
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Volt meters wire up like a light bulb. Don't need a relay or anthing complicated, just one hot lead and one ground. I found the best way to wire them is run a hot lead (with a fuse) to the negative side of the battery and then a ground. I have a switch in the ground so I can turn it on when the bike is off to check the battery. The reason I like direct to the battery is because its a true reading
When you said negative, you meant positive, right?
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2014, 06:39:55 AM » |
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Volt meters wire up like a light bulb. Don't need a relay or anthing complicated, just one hot lead and one ground. I found the best way to wire them is run a hot lead (with a fuse) to the negative side of the battery and then a ground. I have a switch in the ground so I can turn it on when the bike is off to check the battery. The reason I like direct to the battery is because its a true reading
When you said negative, you meant positive, right? Im not sure, Ill have to go look, Im not totally sure...I think its on the negative post.........I just put it where it worked. If its on the neg should I move it to the pos even though its working fine? Ok, I sit corrected........its on the Positive side...........sorry for the bad info
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« Last Edit: December 18, 2014, 06:49:25 AM by Chrisj CMA »
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Valkorado
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Posts: 10503
VRCC DS 0242
Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.
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« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2014, 06:46:32 AM » |
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Have you ever noticed when you're feeling really good, there's always a pigeon that'll come sh!t on your hood? - John Prine 97 Tourer "Silver Bullet" 01 Interstate "Ruby" 
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #11 on: December 18, 2014, 06:37:11 PM » |
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Yes, and no. Argus was sued and stopped making these just after the back lite model came out. I bought mine used (and posted here to really find out how you use it). I don't know if anyone would have old stock or new stock.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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T-Bird
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Posts: 2487
A friend is one who takes me for what I am.
Cleveland, Tennessee
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« Reply #12 on: December 18, 2014, 09:29:59 PM » |
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I don't know if anyone would have old stock or new stock.
Check ebay, I have seen them on there just recently.
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slider
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« Reply #13 on: December 20, 2014, 09:23:36 AM » |
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thanks for the tips...as always you guys come thru with good advice...
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a proud navy veteran
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pancho
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« Reply #14 on: December 20, 2014, 08:15:02 PM » |
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I just received this one ,, don't have it mounted up yet. I like the idea of this as it has only one LED indicator, and I am going to be installing this and several other LED indicators into my fairing. I can just lay them all out in a row and make it look neat and clean. Cant give you a recommendation on it until after I use it for a bit,, but it looks like a good unit to me. They claim accuracy to .2 volts for the unit on their website, and it is auto dimming at night. http://www.signaldynamics.com/heads-up-voltage-monitor/
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #15 on: December 24, 2014, 11:22:41 PM » |
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Pancho I've been running that volt meter on my I/S for over two years now without a problem what so ever. Good piece of equiptment as far as I'm can tell.
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