Wheelbearings - change due to age?

[drbremnes]

Hi,

I will be having new tires put on my 1998 Valk before next season. The bike has only 6000 miles and has, as far as I know, been kept in a garage most of the time. Should I get new wheel bearings while I have my wheels off, or is this not necessary?

[Ricky-D]

Wheel bearings are not a regular maintenance item.

Replacing known good bearings with unproven new bearings

is a gamble at best.

They should only be changed when they're shown to be bad.

***

[drbremnes]

Hi,

Thanks for the quick reply. Saved me 200$ worth of parts and probably twice that in labor. 

[Chrisj CMA]

You will not need to change those unless there is a problem found with one.  Highly doubtful but bearings should always be checked when getting new tires

[Rio Wil]

I think I am becoming an advocate for replacing bearings at some reasonable maintenance interval.  My first failure was the left front  bearing at 165K miles because the grease had dried up and the races/balls eventually galled and became slightly rough and I found this when doing a front tire change. So changed both fronts at that time.

My second failure was the left rear at 205K miles and it was due to dried up grease, the inner race began to gall creating roughness.  I would bet dollars to donuts that the right side double roller bearing is dry also and will be failing soon.

I have to pull the rear wheel soon to do a spline lube so I will pop the right seal off this bearing and will post a pic of the inside. I am not sure what a reasonable interval would be for replacement, maybe a often ridden bike at 150K miles, maybe popping a seal off on a seldom ridden 14 year  old bike with 6K miles would be appropriate also.

But, I am pretty sure I will find dried grease in the double roller bearing.....will decide to re-lube or replace based on what little I can see of the race and ball conditions.....probably just replace it and get it done.

So, I would suggest if maybe one has  100-150K miles on your bearings, pop a seal off and take a look......suspect you might be surprised at how dry they can be and yet still be smooth.....but....destined for destruction soon......

[Woton]

Had to replace my fronts at 50K while on a trip this summer to the West Coast and back. 

Bummer, and it was unfortunately near July 4, but we called ahead to a dealership in SoCal and had them order them for our arrival.  During the install they screwed up my speedo gear which I fixed upon our return home, but the bearing issue didn't cost us day...

I defer to the more seasoned, but I just can't imagine a problem at 6K. 

[Grandpot]

I change parts at a reasonable interval.

Wheel bearings and timing belts at 50,000 miles.

Do you really want to wait until your wheel bearings FAIL while going down the interstate?  Doesn't sound like a good maintenance schedule to me.

Timing belts should be checked every 100,000 miles according to the manual.  When they break they may cause the valves to be damaged.  Valkyries have an "Interference" engine.

It's a lot cheaper and safer to replace parts that wear before the destroy themselves.

Just some thoughts.

[Gryphon Rider]

I just keep the bearings and seals in the tool kit I take on trips.  Haven't needed them in 115,000 km.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I think I am becoming an advocate for replacing bearings at some reasonable maintenance interval.  My first failure was the left front  bearing at 165K miles because the grease had dried up and the races/balls eventually galled and became slightly rough and I found this when doing a front tire change. So changed both fronts at that time.

My second failure was the left rear at 205K miles and it was due to dried up grease, the inner race began to gall creating roughness.  I would bet dollars to donuts that the right side double roller bearing is dry also and will be failing soon.

I have to pull the rear wheel soon to do a spline lube so I will pop the right seal off this bearing and will post a pic of the inside. I am not sure what a reasonable interval would be for replacement, maybe a often ridden bike at 150K miles, maybe popping a seal off on a seldom ridden 14 year  old bike with 6K miles would be appropriate also.

But, I am pretty sure I will find dried grease in the double roller bearing.....will decide to re-lube or replace based on what little I can see of the race and ball conditions.....probably just replace it and get it done.

So, I would suggest if maybe one has  100-150K miles on your bearings, pop a seal off and take a look......suspect you might be surprised at how dry they can be and yet still be smooth.....but....destined for destruction soon......

I didn't know you could remove and replace the seals on the bearings . I thought they were a permanent seal ?

[Bighead]

Also if someone tries to charge you $200 in parts and twice that for labor I hope they are holding a gun on you to get you to agree to paying that much

[Chrisj CMA]

I didn't know you could remove and replace the seals on the bearings . I thought they were a permanent seal ?

They are sealed bearings, however there is a separate dust seal that is supposed to be installed outboard of the actual bearing.  Its just more insurance that road grime and such wont make it to the bearing.

[Rio Wil]

A sealed bearing simply means that a protective disk has been placed into a small radial groove machined into the outer race. The seal/disk usually is a metal disk with a rubber like material coating it. The outer edge of the rubber coating is a bit flexible and allows the seal to be pushed into the machined groove.  Use a sharp pick like a dental tool and you can get under the seal at the edge and pop it off..........pictured is a standard bearing pick out of my bits and pieces box. There is a metal seal with little notches cut into the outer edge of the seal that is more difficult to remove.

To put the seal back in, simply insert one edge into the groove and work it in pushing around the edges to the opposite side.

[The emperor has no clothes]

A sealed bearing simply means that a protective disk has been placed into a small radial groove machined into the outer race. The seal/disk usually is a metal disk with a rubber like material coating it. The outer edge of the rubber coating is a bit flexible and allows the seal to be pushed into the machined groove.  Use a sharp pick like a dental tool and you can get under the seal at the edge and pop it off..........pictured is a standard bearing pick out of my bits and pieces box. There is a metal seal with little notches cut into the outer edge of the seal that is more difficult to remove.

To put the seal back in, simply insert one edge into the groove and work it in pushing around the edges to the opposite side.

Thanks Learn something new on here all the time.

[Ricky-D]

Interesting. First time I've ever heard a bearing described as a wear part.

***

[di1213]

The left rear bearing left me stranded last spring on the interstate highway. 98 with 38.000 miles on it.....

[Slvrvalk1]

I have had two different Valks with each having 73,000 miles on them and never had a bearing replaced.  There has been discussion in the past about bearing failures being more of a problem if the nuts on the axles were not torqued properly on reassembly when the tires have been changed. 

Dave

[Ricky-D]

Indiscriminate power washing is responsible for many

wheel bearing failures.

***
 

[pancho]

I would certainly check the bearings while there is ready access to them, but would not replace them unless a problem is detected. An improperly installed bearing, (hammered in with a socket or such that only presses on one race) can lead to premature failure.

If you feel competent to change the bearings and have the proper tools, there is nothing wrong with doing it in my opinion,, but I would never leave it up to any joe blow.

Good info Rio

[DK]

I still have a tool dating back to growing up on the cotton farm. It is a large hypedermic needle with an alamite on one end. Some sealed bearings have a rubberized plastic area thru which you can stick the needle and then pump bearing grease into the race. Other bearings require drilling a 1/20th. hole in the dust plate.

The needle is also great for CV joints.

It's  a handy tool. No idea where it came from.

It's just to get you thru the day. Replacement, especially of a life defendant component, should always be done a sap.

[Rio Wil]

I have the opinion that if we would take the time to add a little squirt of fresh grease to each of the wheel bearings at tire change time, we would never have a bearing failure..........

[hubcapsc]

I have the opinion that if we would take the time to add a little squirt of fresh grease to each of the wheel bearings at tire change time, we would never have a bearing failure..........

It would never end... then the plastic cover would wear out 

-Mike "always change your orings, thrust washer and bearing covers!"

[Brian]

I change parts at a reasonable interval.

Wheel bearings and timing belts at 50,000 miles.

Do you really want to wait until your wheel bearings FAIL while going down the interstate?  Doesn't sound like a good maintenance schedule to me.

Timing belts should be checked every 100,000 miles according to the manual.  When they break they may cause the valves to be damaged.  Valkyries have an "Interference" engine.

It's a lot cheaper and safer to replace parts that wear before the destroy themselves.

Just some thoughts.

I agree with you grandpot. I replace the rear bearings when going darkside last spring. Did the double row bearing mod. 5,000 miles now with no issues.

[Tfrank59]

I think bearings with only 5000 miles on them, and no visible damage to the seals or covers, should be left alone.  I have a 98 tourer with 30,000 miles on it, and I went ahead and changed the front wheel bearings when I did the tire and brake pads for it.  The bearings that were in there, NSK OEM bearings, we're really just fine (they rolled smoothly with no apparent slop or anything), but when I used a pick to pull out the outer dust seal, I put a slight dent in the side of the actual side cover seal of one bearing.  Even though the bearing had no signs of wear or sticking or anything even with the little dent, I had to replace it because at that point the dent would have kept grease from rotating and could possibly lead to a bearing failure.  All that to say, I ended up putting in bearings (all balls bearings – made in China) which are basically a cheap replacement for Japanese NSK brand, and that just because I did a little oops while removing the seal.  When I do the rear tire this winter, I'll inspect the bearings, and hopefully not make any oops while I'm doing the rear end maintenance, and leave the OEM bearings alone, unless I see they need to be replaced.  I think when it comes to sealed wheel bearings, "if it ain't broke don't fix it."

[Rio Wil]

I had to do my 215K miles spline maintenance so while at it I decided to pop the seal off the double roll bearing to see the condition of the grease.  I had to replace the single roll at 205 K miles....that was my first rear bearing failure. Much to my surprise, it was still quite well greased and still felt smooth. Couldn't let a opportunity go to waste though, so I worked some more grease into the bearings as best as possible......maybe it will go 500K.......  popped the seal back in and good to go....... The greenish black ring is not gresae, it is the metal ball retainer/spacer ring.

I am a bit puzzles as to why there is a lip being worn in the shoulder where the yellow plastic ring goes between the drive flange and double row bearing......it has never been dry in there and the yellow plastic ring is in good shape.......mmmmmm

[Paladin528]

40K on my "new to me" Valk I/S and just had a new rear time installed and one of the bearings was shot.  The Double roll bearing was ok but the other needed replacement.  Total cost was under $50 parts a labor.  I don't have the receipt here but the bearing was relatively cheap (NOT Honda OEM) and NOT Chinese.
I asked him to look at the other one but he said it was fine and to just check at every tire change.

As was mentioned above.  Pressure washing your bike is a NO NO. that is what causes corrosion on all of the bolts and nuts on the bike making removal painful.  If you must water wash your bike then take the time to apply ACF-50 to all of the pertinent areas and save yourself some grief.

[Rio Wil]

Yep......the front right and rear left bearings are susceptible to the pressure washer syndrome.  The front left is somewhat protected by the speedo pickup and the rear right is buried in the inside of the wheel assy.
Another thing I will not do is wash the bike, dry it off and put it up for the night/day.    Always go for a 5 mile ride or so and let everything blow dry and heat up enough for evaporation to finish the rest.