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Author Topic: Mobilube synthetic 75w90 good for final drive?  (Read 1887 times)
drbremnes
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Posts: 8


Tromsoe, Northern Norway


« on: December 20, 2014, 03:22:40 AM »

Hi,

While having my rear wheel off for tire replacement i plan on changing the oil on the final drive. I have a bunch of Mobilube synthetic 75w90 gear oil left from servicing my Chevy Ava. It says API GL-5, but I can´t fint anywhere that says it´s hypoid. Is it still a good choice for the final drive?

This is the oil I have: http://www.nn.commaoil.com/commercial-vehicles/products/view/408
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Honda Valkyrie Standard 1998
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2014, 05:13:56 AM »


I think "Exceeds API service classifications GL-4 and GL-5" are the magic words, that's
what Pro Honda Shaft Drive Oil fine print says on the bottle.

This no-name looking stuff is what they had down at the otter parts store when I went looking,
it says the right thing on the label, and is in my final drive now...



-Mike
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salty1
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Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2014, 05:27:31 AM »

Should work just fine.  cooldude   I use this stuff from Wally World.
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

ShiftHappens
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Posts: 84

South Suburbs Chicago, IL


« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2014, 08:35:12 AM »

I use the US stuff and no problems. I changed it when I changed my tire.

I found this Article:

http://www.ulei-mobil.ro/pdf/MobilAutoDataSheet/Mobilube%201%20SHC%20pds.pdf

Look at bottom of paragraph 3. It appears it is hypoid.
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1999 Interstate

Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364


'98 Tourer

Western Washington


WWW
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2014, 05:03:40 AM »

Hi,

While having my rear wheel off for tire replacement i plan on changing the oil on the final drive. I have a bunch of Mobilube synthetic 75w90 gear oil left from servicing my Chevy Ava. It says API GL-5, but I can´t fint anywhere that says it´s hypoid. Is it still a good choice for the final drive?

This is the oil I have: http://www.nn.commaoil.com/commercial-vehicles/products/view/408


One thing good is you can easily change your final drive gear oil anytime, if at some point you choose to do that after reinstalling the rear wheel.  As far as the word hypoid goes, that means that those type of differential gears, which Valks have, have more sliding pressure then regular bevel gears, and that is why they need extra lubrication for extreme pressure.  I don't know about everybody else, but as long as the viscosity is correct (75 to 90) and somewhere on the bottle I read the words hypoid gear gear oil, I'm good with it.  If we can find hypoid gear oil, with the right viscosity, and it happens to be synthetic oil, even better.  I recently bought a liter of Motorex hypoid gear oil which is a synthetic blend--pretty spendy stuff, about 20 bucks a bottle, but given that the final drive requires only about 6 ounces, that bottle will last pretty much to the end of my days.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Kunkies
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Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2014, 07:20:38 AM »

Amsoil 75W-140 Full Synthetic

Provides more cushion, quieter, superior cooling for final drive regardless of your carrying/hauling/pulling.
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98valk
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Posts: 13498


South Jersey


« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2014, 07:45:37 AM »

Amsoil 75W-140 Full Synthetic

Provides more cushion, quieter, superior cooling for final drive regardless of your carrying/hauling/pulling.


a 140w lowers mpg and is not needed.   heavy trucks go 500k with amsoil 75w90
if your scared that the Honda engineers didn't know what they were doing when they spec'd dino 80w90 and still warranted the bike for 7 yrs unlimited miles then use the amsoil 75w90 high shock oil.
if your really really scared of the Honda engineers then use the mpg wasting 75w140 oil.
just remember 140w oil was developed for life time fills as required by environmental epa clowns as part of their zero discharge policies.
 140 will eventually shear down to  90W thereby providing lifetime fill, but reduced mpg for yrs of usage.
even BMW was not providing a way to drain, no plug, the gear oil from their final drives to meet this zero discharge policy.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2014, 03:02:14 PM »

I've been using Mobil 1 75w90 almost since my 1999 was brand new.  I also use it in my Rocket 3 and my Wife's VTX1300.  I change the final drive every other engine oil change as a matter of routine maintenance.  It's overkill but so easy to do for a known Achille's heel of our bikes.

It's good stuff and will make your final drive noticeably cooler than the dino oil.  Somewhere in the archives there's proof that the final drive runs cooler (as evidenced by heat gun) with the Mobil 1 synthetic.

Don't run the heavier Mobil1...the viscosity specs for the stuff you have are what should be used.  It sounds like you have a lifetime supply at 150 ml per oil change...good luck and enjoy.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2014, 03:05:10 PM by 9Ball » Logged

VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
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