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Author Topic: audiovox cruise control install  (Read 2102 times)
rm
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Posts: 20


« on: August 18, 2009, 08:44:48 PM »

i have ordered the audiovox ccs-100 cruise control for my 2000 valkyrie interstate after reading lots of positive responses to my original question of audiovox vs mccruiser from australia.my orginal source of info on this web site at shop talk by quexpress shows canister requirement but now reading about none required but still not understanding the exact hook-up without the canister.also someone suggested the electronic version from audiovox may work without the vacuum canister.and av supposedly makes a 250-6019 storage tank  that i wonder would mount without a homemade canister if i do indeed need one vs the av ccs-202vacuum canister  advertised made for smaller engined that need artificial vacuum source.i also have installed a brake light wig wag option that may complicate the install and the trunk has a spoiler/light  mounted that may or may not have led lights( not sure but will investigate)anyone experienced  with these issues would be appreciated as i am totally  confused as to next step in the installation.
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RDKLL
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VRCC #1231 VRCCDS #271

Mesa, AZ


« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2009, 05:49:40 AM »

I have 2 for sale and want to price them right the first time
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2009, 08:28:42 AM »

I'll give you my phone number then. It's easier to talk about it than type.  cooldude
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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2009, 11:03:30 AM »

John, can you shoot me your number also?  I've already got the Av CSS-100.  I understand not needing the vacuum tank with the F6 engine.  Just make sure every vacuum line has a 1 way valve on it and connect them together to run them back to the cruise unit.  I've got my rear turns converted to run/turn/brake with a hoppy trailer converter.  The brake light power runs through a brake modulator to a led board in the tail/stop light.  The rear turns are still using 1157 bulbs.  Can I tap the brake power running to the rear turns before it goes through the trailer converter as a deactivate source?
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fudgie
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« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2009, 01:32:39 PM »

John, can you shoot me your number also?  I've already got the Av CSS-100.  I understand not needing the vacuum tank with the F6 engine.  Just make sure every vacuum line has a 1 way valve on it and connect them together to run them back to the cruise unit.  I've got my rear turns converted to run/turn/brake with a hoppy trailer converter.  The brake light power runs through a brake modulator to a led board in the tail/stop light.  The rear turns are still using 1157 bulbs.  Can I tap the brake power running to the rear turns before it goes through the trailer converter as a deactivate source?

So do you hook them up to the intakes then? Sorry, was just wondering. I already did my cruise before I new about the 'no canister' thing. Thx.
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Kingbee
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VRCC# 576

Northern Illinois


« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2009, 06:16:13 PM »

Since you've got an Interstate, it's too easy to not make a cannister.  And put the servo in the fairing, it's easier than the battery box - I've done it both ways.

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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2009, 02:20:39 PM »

Fudgie,

My understanding is the original instructions for the Valk were adopted from V Twin instructions and V Twins don't have the ability to maintain a constant vacuum.  Our Flat 6s do.  Again this is my understanding.  You hook the vacuum lines up as before except you eliminate the vacuum tank.  After you join both banks' vacuum lines, you run a vacuum line back to the cruise unit.  Everything else is the same.

Marty
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