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Author Topic: Rear bearings.......  (Read 898 times)
spongebob
Member
*****
Posts: 70

Alabama


« on: December 26, 2014, 01:01:47 PM »

2003 Valk... 155,000 miles... Changing tires again. I figured might has well do all things  ( brake pads, bearings, dampers, o-rings...etc). Anywho, got front done, no problems... Rear, well .... problems.... I cannot get either bearings out.... tickedoff... heated, beat, cuss, heat, beat ,cuss, cuss....I have the Honda bearing drive tool.... I figured I would ask in here if someone else had this problem and you put on some type of "pixie dust" and the bearing just fell off.... Before I loose my cool and fire up the BIG torch and sledge hammer tickedoff
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14784


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2014, 01:36:23 PM »

I go to AutoZone and borrow their slide hammer.  They come out like butter
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flcjr
Member
*****
Posts: 776


Manhattan,Montana


« Reply #2 on: December 26, 2014, 02:03:56 PM »

I use a race punch from the back side.  I have a slide hammer and a assortment of pullers if you want to borrow them. Logistics might be a problem for that
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sandy
Member
*****
Posts: 5390


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #3 on: December 26, 2014, 04:15:26 PM »

When I had to do my rear bearings, I took the wheel and new bearings to an auto machine shop. Cost $20 and he installed the new ones too.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2014, 06:19:34 PM »

Is this the tool you have? What is going wrong?



The problem I remember when we were learning to use it was that the "screwdriver"
part would push the slotted part out of the bearing before the slotted part got wedged in there good
enough to push the bearing out too. The solution was not being timid. I wish I remembered
the exact details, we did something like: put the slotted part in the bearing, and lay the
wheel down on the floor so that the slotted part is on the floor and can't come out. Then,
in an un-timid fashion, give the screwdriver part a few good whacks so that it is wedged
deeply enough in the slot that the slotted part is also wedged tightly enough in
the bearing. Then lift the wheel up vertical and whack the bearing out by hitting
the end of the screwdriver part. If the slotted part comes out without the bearing coming out,
you didn't seat the screwdriver part deeply enough (assuming there's nothing
weird going on, like someone welded the bearing in there...)...

-Mike
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Icelander
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Posts: 179


Snohomish, WA


« Reply #5 on: December 26, 2014, 08:15:06 PM »

I just bought a "blind bearing puller" from HF and could not get the bearings to budge with it. Not wanting to screw up the rim, I took it to a professional near me. He pulled out a 3/8 extension and a hammer. Banged them out in 10 minutes and pressed in the new bearings for $20.

I probably could have done it myself but I'm learning to delegate more as I get older.

Kendall
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1998 Valkyrie Tourer.

VRCC Member #36337
bentwrench
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Posts: 760

Philadelphia,Pa.


« Reply #6 on: December 27, 2014, 05:31:42 PM »

I've always pushed the spacer a little out of center and gave the inner race a good wack with a long punch from other end.move it around side to side between hits and it will come right out.once the first one is out you get  a clear shot at the other side.It's ok to hit the inner race on bearing that going in the trash anyway.Just make sure to push the new one in from outer race only.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2014, 05:18:21 AM by bentwrench » Logged
spongebob
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Posts: 70

Alabama


« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2014, 07:42:34 PM »

Yea HUB I have the same thing.... It would not get bearing out.... would not hold... tickedoff I even used a long thicker drive type screwdriver... would not get it either.... Really had to heat the hub, but did get them out with the larger driver..... cooldude
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