Final drive 3rd o ring

[Dark]

I pulled the wheel & final drive to ensure the splines are lubed on my new to me 99 IS.
I understand the 3rd o ring is supposed to be in the final drive, inside where the flange goes in to the final drive. It does not appear to be there, is that possible? I have a new red set (3) ready to install but that 3rd one appears not to be currently in place.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Could be it got chewed up or more likely never got put in the last time.

[Brian]

If you thoroughly clean all the old grease out you should see it or at least the recessed spot where it goes. A small thin screw driver can be used to pop it out if one is there. I believe the shoptalk section has a article titled "The elusive 3rd o-ring"

[Dark]

Mystery solved
It split and was not where it was supposed to be

[Tfrank59]

In a couple of weeks when my new rear tire arrives, I'll be doing the very same thing to my 98 tourer for the first time, so please give an update when it's all back together – I'd be interested to read all the details. Thanks.

[da prez]

   I just bought another 98 tourer and am in the process of resurecting it. The last tire and rear end service was done by Honda.  I tore it down and the O-rings were not done. The third was melted and the rear end was dry spline. I would say it has a 90% life left. Had the new dunflop been ok , I would still have done the service , but it is possible someone else would have just rode it. I am pretty anal about my bikes. The rear end service is easy and easier each time you do it. D O not short-cut the work.

                               da prez     

[Tfrank59]

No, I won't do any shortcuts. Like you I'm pretty picky about things, especially the wheels cause I darn sure don't want to get stuck somewhere.  I looked at most of the videos for doing the rear end sercvice, I have the service manual, I also have both kinds of O-rings sets the red and the black, and I bought bearings just in case, along with new brake pads.  I plan to get the Big girl up on the lift and go through everything during the dead of winter, so when I set her back down I know everything is right.

[Dark]

Just an update, the rear wheel is back on, lubed up & new red O Rings installed. The splines were well lubed so I was happy about that. Getting the rear wheel off was more of a challenge than I had anticipated, but it was the 1st time & I'm sure things will go smoother next time. It went on easier than it came off. Didn't have time yesterday but I'll work on it this eve when I get back from the tree stand if not working on a deer.
I've got a speed bleeder for the rear brake that I need to install so I can change brake fluid while I've got access.
I've got new upper bushings for the shocks to install & I need to stop by the Honda dealer for a couple of exhaust studs & nuts.
It should be back together by Fri & I'll update again at that time.
So far what I've learned is next time start spraying PB  Blaster on the exhaust studs a few days before & use a screw driver to make sure the flange goes w the wheel when you pull it off.
Thanks for all the help so far

[Joe Hummer]

So....you took the exhaust off to take the rear tire off?  I know that is what the manual says...but there is an easier way.  You take the shocks off, place a jack under the tire, and lift the wheel so the axle is above the exhausts.  You will have to lower it down once you get the axle out so you can wiggle the brake out...but trust me, it is SO much easier to do it this way and you don't have to replace exhaust gaskets and broken studs.  There are threads on the forum with more information. 

Joe

[Dark]

So....you took the exhaust off to take the rear tire off?  

Joe

Yes, it is 1st time. So learning lots as I go. I will do as you suggest next time since I took the shocks off anyway to replace the bushings. Shocks were simple to get off & I used a piece of chain in their place to get the wheel off the ground & in position to remove.
It's an IS and I removed the bags, mounts & bag protectors also. That was pretty easy & will use anti seize when all that goes back on since some threads were a little sticky

[The emperor has no clothes]

So....you took the exhaust off to take the rear tire off?  

Joe

Yes, it is 1st time. So learning lots as I go. I will do as you suggest next time since I took the shocks off anyway to replace the bushings. Shocks were simple to get off & I used a piece of chain in their place to get the wheel off the ground & in position to remove.
It's an IS and I removed the bags, mounts & bag protectors also. That was pretty easy & will use anti seize when all that goes back on since some threads were a little sticky

Also you dont need to remove the bag rails, just the bags. When you do it the next time just unbolt the back exhaust mounts, pull out on the pipe and put a wooden spacer of a 1/2" to keep them spread out.

[Joe Hummer]

So....you took the exhaust off to take the rear tire off?  

Joe

Yes, it is 1st time. So learning lots as I go. I will do as you suggest next time since I took the shocks off anyway to replace the bushings. Shocks were simple to get off & I used a piece of chain in their place to get the wheel off the ground & in position to remove.
It's an IS and I removed the bags, mounts & bag protectors also. That was pretty easy & will use anti seize when all that goes back on since some threads were a little sticky

Also you dont need to remove the bag rails, just the bags. When you do it the next time just unbolt the back exhaust mounts, pull out on the pipe and put a wooden spacer of a 1/2" to keep them spread out.

Hey Meathead...you don't even need to use the wood spacers...I haven't taken anything lose on my exhaust since I changed them out for truck stacks a couple of years ago...and before then it was...well...since the last time i actually had to remove the exhaust.  You only need to spread the exhaust if you plan on taking your axle out below the exhaust.   

You can limit the travel of the swing arm by using chain (as Dark done) or those handlebar straps (that we are not supposed to use on your bikes anyway) and wrap it around the axle tube and hook on to the upper shock mount.  You can also use a ratchet strap if you have one of those laying around. 

Joe

[The emperor has no clothes]

So....you took the exhaust off to take the rear tire off?  

Joe

Yes, it is 1st time. So learning lots as I go. I will do as you suggest next time since I took the shocks off anyway to replace the bushings. Shocks were simple to get off & I used a piece of chain in their place to get the wheel off the ground & in position to remove.
It's an IS and I removed the bags, mounts & bag protectors also. That was pretty easy & will use anti seize when all that goes back on since some threads were a little sticky

Also you dont need to remove the bag rails, just the bags. When you do it the next time just unbolt the back exhaust mounts, pull out on the pipe and put a wooden spacer of a 1/2" to keep them spread out.

Hey Meathead...you don't even need to use the wood spacers...I haven't taken anything lose on my exhaust since I changed them out for truck stacks a couple of years ago...and before then it was...well...since the last time i actually had to remove the exhaust.  You only need to spread the exhaust if you plan on taking your axle out below the exhaust.   

You can limit the travel of the swing arm by using chain (as Dark done) or those handlebar straps (that we are not supposed to use on your bikes anyway) and wrap it around the axle tube and hook on to the upper shock mount.  You can also use a ratchet strap if you have one of those laying around. 

Joe

You are correct. I do it like that because its a lot easier for me to get the car tire out with it jacked up.

[Dark]

it is SO much easier to do it this way and you don't have to replace exhaust gaskets and broken studs.  

Joe

Local dealer doesn't have the studs so I will order on line
Do I need to order 6 new exhaust gaskets also? Is there a way to tell if they are still good.
Again, thanks for all the help. It's a learning experience, but not a bad experience (so far).
Wrenching is relaxing to me since I'm normally stuck in an office all day

[Joe Hummer]

it is SO much easier to do it this way and you don't have to replace exhaust gaskets and broken studs.  

Joe

Local dealer doesn't have the studs so I will order on line
Do I need to order 6 new exhaust gaskets also? Is there a way to tell if they are still good.
Again, thanks for all the help. It's a learning experience, but not a bad experience (so far).
Wrenching is relaxing to me since I'm normally stuck in an office all day

Every time you take the exhaust off, you need to replace the gaskets.  Make sure you get the old ones out before putting the new ones in.  If the new ones don't stay in place, give them a little tweak (out of round) and they will stay in place.  Don't over do it or it won't seal properly. 

After you re-install the pipes and tighten everything down, give the bike a ride (a few miles) and check the tightness again.  Remember, these don't get a lot of torque so don't over do it. 

Joe

[Jess from VA]

Spec is only 7lbs on the exhaust stud nuts.  Barely tight.  

Then you need to check (and likely snug them up them several times) over the next few weeks/months (on new crush gaskets).

If ordering studs, order a few more than you now need.  Two set of gaskets is not a bad idea either.

[Ricky-D]

If the exhaust gaskets don't fall out and you replace the exhaust

carefully, to the way it was, with even tightening, there is no

need to replace the gaskets. I think most, also, do not replace

the gaskets. And, if by chance, one may be leaking, it's not

a big job to replace it later on.

***

[Jess from VA]

I agree, if the gaskets are all sound, and if you carefully go around snugging up all six so everything ends up where it was before removal, the old gaskets might work again fine.  But I would have some on hand anyway. 

Mine are almost certainly 15-16 years old, so I might use new anyway (I already have them, along with a box of other spares).

Depends on how they look.