no clutch

[blackvalkyrie]

I was replacing my upper and lower radiator hose on my 97 standard a couple of weeks ago when I stupidly dropped the bike on it's right side. the bike didn't drop too hard, more like slowly going down. anyway, today I finished the job, but now I have no clutch! my clutch master cylinder was low, but I'm sure that was due more to just needing a refill, than anything else. anyway, when i pull in the clutch lever I have no resistance at all. I installed more fluid, but an unable to figure out what the heck size nut that bleeder valve has... but here's my question...I'm pretty sure that it's not due to low fluid but something else. is it possible that the clutch slave cylinder was damaged and is not working or that the clutch lifter rod is somehow disengaged from the lifter piece? It seems odd to me, that having dropped the bike on the right side, would somehow affect the clutch. Anyone run into this problem before? Thanks in advance for your help!

[sandy]

When the bike went over, you might have let some air down the tubing. Bleed the clutch as you would for a regular flush. The bleeder nut is a 10mm. Use a box end wrench as it works well.

[Chrisj CMA]

Why would you think the problem is NOT due to low fluid.  when the bike went over undoubtedly the little bit of fluid in the master shifted and very possible could have (as already suggested) let air into the system. 

Secondly you said the fluid was low due to "just needing a refill"  Clutch fluid doesn't evaporate, if it just needs a refill the missing fluid went somewhere.  Unless the last person that changed the fluid just filled it that way.

Very doubtful that a mechanical problem happened to the clutch just by dropping the bike, but very likely an air in the line due to low fluid. 

Bleed, fill and monitor closely to see if you lose fluid again.

Oh, and report back how it goes

[Hook#3287]

What Sandy and Chris said

I'd be surprised if it wasn't due to low fluid and the bike on it's side.

Now's a good time to change out the fluid if it hasn't been done in 3 years or so, seeing as you messing with it anyways.

[Dorkman]

Suggest Speed Bleeders for the clutch and brakes.  Install them once and the job goes easier.  Many posts and tips for bleeding brakes and clutch.

[blackvalkyrie]

I.m totally mystified. I replaced the fluid as was suggested, installed speed bleeder and pumped the damn lever for at least an hour! I was getting fluid in the clear line attached to the bag, but now it seems just air and air and air comes out. the rubber boot inside the master cylinder was stretched out and no longer flat so i switched it out w/ the brake master cylinder boot.. no luck! one question I have: the handlebars are titled downward( looks normal on valks) so the master cylinder never is level. I pointed the nose of the bike downhill but still only the back half of the cylinder has fluid in it before it starts to overflow.Do I need to rotate the handlebars up to get the cylinder completly full and if so, how did it work before? the bars look exactly like the do on the cover of the Clymer manual. so damn frustrating! also, the original fluid was dirty and gummy on the bottom of the cylinder. thanks again for any help!

Why would you think the problem is NOT due to low fluid.  when the bike went over undoubtedly the little bit of fluid in the master shifted and very possible could have (as already suggested) let air into the system. 

Secondly you said the fluid was low due to "just needing a refill"  Clutch fluid doesn't evaporate, if it just needs a refill the missing fluid went somewhere.  Unless the last person that changed the fluid just filled it that way.

Very doubtful that a mechanical problem happened to the clutch just by dropping the bike, but very likely an air in the line due to low fluid. 

Bleed, fill and monitor closely to see if you lose fluid again.

Oh, and report back how it goes

[Valker]

Yep, rotate the bars and/or the reservoir so it is level. Sometimes just turning the front wheel one way or another will accomplish this.

[pancho]

It sounds like you need a bit of expert help from someone that knows a bit more than you do blackvalkyrie,, you seem to be digging your hole deeper.  Is there anyone around that knows brakes you could get to give you a hand for a bit???

first, I would first put everything back to where it belongs

second, check the slave cylinder from under the bike to see if it is leaking, the original fluid was low for a reason.

third, keep the cover off the master cylinder while trying to bleed and make sure the reservoir NEVER runs low while doing this procedure,, do whatever it takes to get the master somewhat level.

forget the speed bleeder, just use the plastic tubing into a glass or jar, gravity will do the rest at a slow manageable pace.

When you are getting only fluid, shut the bleed valve and button everything up,,,,   if you saw the slave had been leaking in step two,, schedule a rebuild and order the seal.    

Good luck

[pancho]

Didn't mean to come off like that little bully "Toadie",  blackvalkyrie,,,   he just raises his head once in awhile when I'm not looking...  Forgive me, no disrespect intended. 

Any progress on the clutch?

[Steve K (IA)]

Okay, I'll add my 2 cents.  This is how I do it .....

The bike (I/S or the Std) sets on the kickstand.  Handlebars turned to the right.  Loosen the clamp on the clutch reservoir, and then slide it upwards to the bend in the handlebars into a position where it is level.  Then lightly tighten the clamp so it will stay there.  It is when it is in this level position that I take the cover off.  I put an old heavy (thick) blanket over the tank and radiator pods to protect from the possibility of spilled fluid cause you Don't want that stuff on your paint.
As has been said by others,  when bleeding the clutch, keep a close eye on the fluid level not letting it get so low as to expose the little hole in the bottom of the res.
This is what works for me. 

[Dorkman]

Agree that problem seems to be that the level in the master cylinder got too low and you are now sucking air.  After getting the level problem solved, and getting no bubbles in the purge line, there are other tricks to getting any remaining bubbles out of the line.

There are several tricks mentioned in other posts.  One that works for me is 1) After no bubbles, and with the master cylinder level and open, tie down the lever.  2) Leave overnight, with the idea that bubbles will rise.  3) Tap the banjo bolt with a plastic or rubber mallet where it connects to the master cylinder.  Bubbles may be trapped at the bend.  Do this several times.

There are several methods for bleeding, each with their own advocates.  Good luck, and remember not to put the bike into gear with the side stand down.  It will kill the motor, and you will wonder if you clutch is still screwed up.  Don't ask me how I know . . .

[Gavin_Sons]

Also very important not to let air back in the system when you release the lever. I do this by pooring a few inches of fluid in a small container with my bleeder hose in the fluid. That way when you release the lever it will suck up fluid instead of air. Have done this several time to 2 different bikes and works for me. My dad had brake broblems on his 83 goldwing. Finally zip tied the lever back to the bars for a couple days, and had brakes.

[blackvalkyrie]

Didn't mean to come off like that little bully "Toadie",  blackvalkyrie,,,   he just raises his head once in awhile when I'm not looking...  Forgive me, no disrespect intended. 

Any progress on the clutch?  Yup! got it handled! thanks to you and everyone else..

[blackvalkyrie]

Didn't mean to come off like that little bully "Toadie",  blackvalkyrie,,,   he just raises his head once in awhile when I'm not looking...  Forgive me, no disrespect intended. 

Any progress on the clutch?

No disrespect felt..no worries

[blackvalkyrie]

Thanks to everyone who gave me  advice and information! My bike is up and running, and boy am I happy!!!I miss riding the valk..

[pancho]

Cool,,, nothing like knowing it's ready to go when you are......