front tire wear on '99 valk

[Ominustchees]

This is one helpful website. Thanks to all that contribute. Is there a reason why a 99 valk wears our the side of the front tire and a 99 goldwing doesn't. I have read most post on the net as to the 3% road grade that causes it, but both bikes weigh almost the same and my friend replaces his front tire on his wing when the CENTER of the tire wears and I replace mine when the SIDE of CENTER wears. We both run E3's with dynabeads. Any logical answer?

[Ricky-D]

Two things can account for most of that difference.

First being air pressure in the tire and the second would be riding style. Takes in a whole range of differences.

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[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Two things can account for most of that difference.

First being air pressure in the tire and the second would be riding style. Takes in a whole range of differences.

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Ditto

[Daniel Meyer]

The Valk tire is also substantially wider that the wing tire...

[Spirited-6]

Two things can account for most of that difference.

First being air pressure in the tire and the second would be riding style. Takes in a whole range of differences.

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I don`t think pressure is the bad guy. If that were the problem wear would the same, right or left. My guess is the forks are not lined up right. Low or high pressure would be a dead giveaway in wear patterants. IMOP. Damn, I can`t spell.

[DFragn]

I don`t think pressure is the bad guy. If that were the problem wear would the same, right or left. My guess is the forks are not lined up right. Low or high pressure would be a dead giveaway in wear patterants. IMOP. Damn, I can`t spell.

I strongly agree.
Fork Tube mis-alignment is probably more prevalent then we can imagine.
An easy way to check fork alignment is with a $3.00 piece of cut glass from your local hardware store. Min. of 12" long x whatever will fit top to bottom on the lower end of your upper tubes. Even though the tubes are tapered this will work. Just stay away from the lower flare. They'll usually have some scrap big enough, maybe for free too.

You may have to extend the forks to get the glass against the upper tubes above the fender. If it's misaligned, there's no way around it, your going to have to pull the wheel, axle and fender to adjust.

If that piece of glass doesn't lay flat at all 4 contact points ya ain't aligned.
Imagine; if it only reflects a 1/16" that can translate to an 1" or more at the axle which is really a 1/2" between the 2 tubes. That's more than enough to pull the bike and force constant counter steer [that you may not even notice] AND chew a front tire either side of center.

The tricky part is making that 1/32" [or whatever] adjustment. Ya gotta find a good sequence on the triple tree pinch bolts that doesn't keep pushing/pulling the tube from your preferred position. It can be done with diligence & patience.

My OE tire was the only one that never wore worse to either side of center. Until now. 9-10 front tires later.

[humshark]

Dfragn

You may have to extend the forks to get the glass against the upper tubes above the fender. If it's misaligned, there's no way around it, your going to have to pull the wheel, axle and fender to adjust.

You'll have to help me here.  PM me if you like.  I don't quite understand how you are checking for alignment like this.  I have not delved into front fork stuff but I am trying to get someone to help me on mine.

I have leaking seals currently and have just gone through a front tire in under 8k.  I suspect somethings up, even though she feels great going down the road.  Pressure was always kept at 40 to 42 in the front.

[DFragn]

Dfragn

You may have to extend the forks to get the glass against the upper tubes above the fender. If it's misaligned, there's no way around it, your going to have to pull the wheel, axle and fender to adjust.

You'll have to help me here.  PM me if you like.  I don't quite understand how you are checking for alignment like this.  I have not delved into front fork stuff but I am trying to get someone to help me on mine.

I have leaking seals currently and have just gone through a front tire in under 8k.  I suspect somethings up, even though she feels great going down the road.  Pressure was always kept at 40 to 42 in the front.

humshark,

the glass is as close to a perfect plane as you can probably get. For instance, I wouldn't trust a piece of plywood!

If the forks are good, holding a piece of glass [not too hard 'cause glass can actually bend a bit] will not reflect any low points at any of the 4 contact points. If it's even a 1/16" off or less tap the glass lightly over a contact point, it will click with contact to the fork tube. Easier to do it audibly then visually. If you hear it you can see it. It will always be at opposite corners of the glass [a rocking effect]. This will show you if they're out of alignment.

BTW Sometimes the stress to the lower tubes from the upper tubes being even slightly misaligned can cause slight seal leaks. My left seal leak stopped leaking once my tubes were aligned and handling is now superb as well as better tire wear.

It's by no means a perfect method, but it's as close as you can get without expensive equipment. Who knows, maybe just as good.

[humshark]

Thanks for the reply,  Maybe I'll attempt this even if i don't get some one -on- one help. 

 

[fast black]

I must be dumber than a box of rocks 'cause I don't get.  I'm gonna need a picture or something  to help me understand how a straight edge is gonna help me line up or check the fork alignment. 
I'm not saying it can't be done, but I can't figure out how to check it.
fast black

[DFragn]

Thanks for the reply,  Maybe I'll attempt this even if i don't get some one -on- one help.  

 

Ah, not a straight edge.
The plane the plane the plane of the flat side of the glass is what your using. 4" is sufficient 6" even better if you don't have a lot of crap mounted to your upper tubes like I do. I only had room for 3"x12"
Ya lay it flat against the upper tubes spanning them. If that piece of glass rocks in a kitty-corner fashion they're off.

Sorry, I posted it to benefit the archives for future searches.

If they're out of alighnment realignment can be a bear.

1. Remove front wheel & fender. Bike must be supported & very STABLE
    Centerstand or bike lift. A second pair of hands can be useful just to apply some reverse leverage to the bars. If solo, strap the
    bars as far rearward as you can and snug them really good. Strap 'em even if you have help.

2. Judge which tube is out or in. Usually impossible, so select a tube your comfortable with.

3. Make note of the position of that tubes top cap as it's relative to the top surface of the upper tree clamp so that it's the same        
   after alighnment and matches the other one.

4. Slide the bare axle through the fork legs no need to install the axle bolt. You want to keep this loose. It is for safty only so you
   don't drop a fork tube to the ground.

5. Run a woven strap [no bungees] over the lower clamp & under the axle. Snug well, but do not compress the forks more than an  
   inch. That might be too tight. You'll know when you loosen the three pinch bolts on one tube. It will pop up or shift down if not    
   tight enough.
   Loosen the top clamp nut over the steering stem. What your realigning here is actually the triple clamps and that won't happen if  
   this nut is still torqued down. Probably better to crack that loose while the wheel is still on & on the ground.

6. Loosen the triple tree pinch bolts [3] on one tube only. Adjust strap carefully, watch your toes! Snug the pinch bolts barely enough to just maintain vertical position so the tube cap is relatively very very near where it needs to finish off at the top surface of the upper clamp upon completion. You won't have another chance to adjust the tube height.

7. Using a 2x4" [4' +] on the narrow edge for rigidity as a fulcrum of sorts, scissored through the forks [which ever way is required] at the upper tubes only and just above the lower tube flare. Apply pressure to tweak the loose tube in the direction it needs to go. DO NOT APPLY ANY PRESSURE TO THE LOWER TUBES - INTERNAL DAMAGE WILL RESULT

This is a constant back & forth process with the glass to check if it's where it needs to be.

8. Once you think you have it aligned with the still secured fork tube you can now start tightening the pinch bolts. There is no real method to this madness! I found it worked better for me if I started with the lower double pinch bolts. It all depends. Snug each pinch bolt of the pair a little at a time to take them in as evenly as possible. Don't torque them in yet. Just really snug. Check alignment with the glass. If it pulled back out to where it was loosen bolts again and realign again. This time over correcting slightly. Keep checking your snugged adjustments with the glass until it's where it needs to be.

9. Once the lower clamp bolts have the tube where you want it move on to the upper single pinch bolt and do the same process as the lower.

10. If your finally happy or just tired of going in circles with the readjustments and all pinch bolts have been torqued to spec. [check the other leg torque values while your there]. Torque the top clamp stem nut before you set the bike back on the ground or reinstall the wheel.

11. Lower the bike onto the ground. Check the top clamp stem nut torque. Final check of alignment with glass. Reinstall the fender.

Holler out if you need the torque values involved...

This could take a while and with a fair amount of patience.

BTW This does nothing for parallel. The clamps hopefully take care of that on their own!

On the lighter side.
This is a system I devised and it worked for me and somehow even eventually made sense to me. But, all that being said I offer no warranty or accountability because I only think I listed the proper process order and hope I didn't leave something out.

PM me with any questions while your in there.

I'm sure your gonna feel like this ----->  

[DFragn]

I must be dumber than a box of rocks 'cause I don't get.  I'm gonna need a picture or something  to help me understand how a straight edge is gonna help me line up or check the fork alignment.  
I'm not saying it can't be done, but I can't figure out how to check it.
fast black

Ah, not a straight edge.
The plane the plane the plane of the flat side of the glass is what your using. 4" is sufficient 6" even better if you don't have a lot of crap mounted to your upper tubes like I do. I only had room for 3"x12"
Ya lay it flat against the upper tubes spanning them. If that piece of glass rocks in a kitty-corner fashion they're off.

[fast black]

ah so, i  believe i gets it now.
thanks
fast black

[Hoser]

All the tires I've used do that, some more than others.  I have found that the Bridgestones and avons do it least, Dunlops are by far the worst.  Hoser

[Cliff]

another, although rare, cause of uneven tire wear is rider position.  If the rider sits slightly (or more) off centeline  the tire will wear more on one side than the other.  Best way to tell is have someone follow behind you on a straight flat stretch and observe your position and if look to see if there is any lean angle.

[Steve K (IA)]

Crap....now I will be out buying a piece of glass because I had my forks off twice in about three weeks.  But....I only removed and replaced one at a time so maybe I'll be OK.   No uneven tire wear here...E3's.   Good information.   I am bookmarking this thread.

[Ricky-D]

Crap....now I will be out buying a piece of glass because I had my forks off twice in about three weeks.  But....I only removed and replaced one at a time so maybe I'll be OK.   No uneven tire wear here...E3's.   Good information.   I am bookmarking this thread.

Steve, here's a quick way to check to see if you have shock tubes that are out of plane.

Get a thread wrapped around one shock close to the top, run it diagonal to the other shock at the bottom. Wrap it a couple of times and run it across to the other tube at the corresponding point, wrap it a couple of times and then run it diagonally up to the top of the shock on the remaining side.

You should then have the thread forming an 'X' between the two shocks.  At the point of intersection the thread should be touching very lightly. If they are not touching or if there is interference then you can infer that the tubes are out of plane.

Hint: The quality of how you wrap the thread will determine the accuracy of the test. If there is an interference re-wrap the thread (under or over) differently so then you will see the amount of skew between the threads.

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