1500 Goldwing Pumpkin on a Valkyrie?

[Tfrank59]

This somehow first got posted on the 1800 board    Anyway, I know there's been a lot of discussion about this previously, but as a novice could I just ask would it be possible to simply swap out my Valkrie pumpkin for a good working GL 1500 gold wing's?  Reason being, as you may know, there's like 10 Gold wing 1500 pumpkins on eBay – ranging in price from $50-$350 – but there are only a couple Valk's @ $500 +.  Apparently the splines for those two bikes are the same, but I was just wondering if the entire unit could simply be swapped--Has anybody tried it?  That's my question.  Thanks.

[old2soon]

Get hold of Grumpy if he doesn't chime in here. I'm 99.43% certain the pumpkins are not interchangeable. BUT the splines are with press work. THAT is the WHY of gittin hold of Grumpy. RIDE SAFE.

[John Schmidt]

No, won't swap but Dennis is correct re. the guts. If the splines on the Valk unit are toast, you can pick up a good Wing unit and have that part pressed out of both final drives. Then press the good Wing splines into the Valk unit. Been done many times, Grumpy did one for me after I picked up a good Wing unit for $45 with free shipping....about a year or more ago. There's a few parts on the Wing unit that works on the Valk; the chrome breather cap on top, the pinion cup and associated parts. A few other items I don't recall just now.

[Tfrank59]

Okay, thanks for that feedback.  My splines are not bad right now, but I'm thinking I'll be due for a rebuild next tire change. 

[John Schmidt]

Why? Many riders go well into six digits on the total mileage with the original final drive. If it's not bad now, they shouldn't be when you change the tire....unless you never lube it, which I doubt. How many miles on the bike?

[Tfrank59]

Well, just got into the rear wheel for the first time yesterday, and to my great disappointment  I saw where the PO did not grease the final drive splines.  Did some damage but not toast.

[Bighead]

Okay, thanks for that feedback.  My splines are not bad right now, but I'm thinking I'll be due for a rebuild next tire change.  

In an earlier post you stated only32k miles why in the world would it need to be rebuilt with that few miles on it. Has the splines been dry from mile one?

You posted as I was typing. But still doubt it needs rebuilding.

[Tfrank59]

Okay, thanks for that feedback.  My splines are not bad right now, but I'm thinking I'll be due for a rebuild next tire change.  

In an earlier post you stated only32k miles why in the world would it need to be rebuilt with that few miles on it. Has the splines been dry from mile one?

You posted as I was typing. But still doubt it needs rebuilding.

No, not yet, but I'm planning to keep the bike and don't like any weak link in the drive train.  Sucks breaking down!

[CoachDoc]

No, won't swap but Dennis is correct re. the guts. If the splines on the Valk unit are toast, you can pick up a good Wing unit and have that part pressed out of both final drives. Then press the good Wing splines into the Valk unit. Been done many times, Grumpy did one for me after I picked up a good Wing unit for $45 with free shipping....about a year or more ago. There's a few parts on the Wing unit that works on the Valk; the chrome breather cap on top, the pinion cup and associated parts. A few other items I don't recall just now.

This interests me greatly. My splines were bone dry and rusty with plenty of wear when I bought
my "97 Standard. They've since been cleaned and well lubed and are working fine but it's only a matter of time........

The much lower priced 1500 Wing final drive looks like a great option. How on earth do you get the splines out of the pumpkin? Who would I have do this transfer, an automotive machine shop? Thanks.

[Bighead]

No, won't swap but Dennis is correct re. the guts. If the splines on the Valk unit are toast, you can pick up a good Wing unit and have that part pressed out of both final drives. Then press the good Wing splines into the Valk unit. Been done many times, Grumpy did one for me after I picked up a good Wing unit for $45 with free shipping....about a year or more ago. There's a few parts on the Wing unit that works on the Valk; the chrome breather cap on top, the pinion cup and associated parts. A few other items I don't recall just now.

This interests me greatly. My splines were bone dry and rusty with plenty of wear when I bought
my "97 Standard. They've since been cleaned and well lubed and are working fine but it's only a matter of time........

The much lower priced 1500 Wing final drive looks like a great option. How on earth do you get the splines out of the pumpkin? Who would I have do this transfer, an automotive machine shop? Thanks.

As I understand it yes a machine shop.

[old2soon]

CoachDoc. Grumpy is a board member in Fl. I realize it's clear across the country from you. I'm here in Missouri and if I needed this done I'd be giving my business to Grumpy. I'm guessing here but any competent machine shop SHOULD be capable of the job. Good luck with your quest. RIDE SAFE.

[John Schmidt]

Bill(Grumpy) turned out an adapter on his lathe, uses it to press the parts out/in without damaging them.   Just don't forget to drain the oil out of both, then pull the cover and clean it up. Shop people hate to have a mess dumped on their equipment.

[Tfrank59]

I'm also a repair machinist.  Any chance I could get the specs on that tool for pressing in/out the pumpkin guts? 

[John Lane]

If you look on the Northwest chapter board and read my post titled winter project I describe the process of using GW spline sleeves and swapping it into a Valk with a couple of pictures.

[sandy]

The only difference that prevents a swap is the mounting bolts. Three of them align up but the 4th is off. If I were desperate and needed to get home, I'd find a trike shop and cut off the one stud and bolt it up. Not recommended for a permanent fix but a "get home" band aid.

[pancho]

I rebuilt mine with wing splines, the PO or his mechanic, had left out the thrust washer when changing a tire and caused a lot of damage in the rear,, wheel, damper retainer and fasteners, splines etc.,, it is no big deal to replace the splines in one. No special tool is needed, just a couple blocks of aluminum to keep from damaging the steel splines and a press. I went as far as reusing the old seals,, as it was for my personal use,,  no leaks.. wing final drive was under $50 on eBay with good splines, that was the total cost of the rebuild.  I forgot, I needed a driven wheel flange also ,,that was provided by a board member for twenty bucks and shipping so I guess the rebuild was $70 or $80. If I was doing it for someone else I would replace the seals. If you go this route, there is a good possibility that the original spacers will provide the correct gear lash, but it must be checked per manual instructions. Also, I don't recommend attempting this procedure unless you are a fairly good mechanic,, you want it to last.

You need to be careful with sealant placement (per manual) when sealing the cases as not to block breathing/vent passage,, otherwise you will be puking gear oil when it gets up to operating temperature. I can post some pictures if interested.  If you need one rebuilt, PM me, I'll tell you what I know or can do it for you.

[John Schmidt]

I'm also a repair machinist.  Any chance I could get the specs on that tool for pressing in/out the pumpkin guts? 

Contact Grumpy on the Florida board.

[Tfrank59]

I rebuilt mine with wing splines, the PO or his mechanic, had left out the thrust washer when changing a tire and caused a lot of damage in the rear,, wheel, damper retainer and fasteners, splines etc.,, it is no big deal to replace the splines in one. No special tool is needed, just a couple blocks of aluminum to keep from damaging the steel splines and a press. I went as far as reusing the old seals,, as it was for my personal use,,  no leaks.. wing final drive was under $50 on eBay with good splines, that was the total cost of the rebuild.  I forgot, I needed a driven wheel flange also ,,that was provided by a board member for twenty bucks and shipping so I guess the rebuild was $70 or $80. If I was doing it for someone else I would replace the seals. If you go this route, there is a good possibility that the original spacers will provide the correct gear lash, but it must be checked per manual instructions. Also, I don't recommend attempting this procedure unless you are a fairly good mechanic,, you want it to last.

You need to be careful with sealant placement (per manual) when sealing the cases as not to block breathing/vent passage,, otherwise you will be puking gear oil when it gets up to operating temperature. I can post some pictures if interested.  If you need one rebuilt, PM me, I'll tell you what I know or can do it for you.

I'm a fairly proficient mechanic, but my main occupation is repair machinist, so while I do a lot of bearing pressing etc. (mainly on stuff for trucks and heavy equipment) the thing that worries me about this would be getting the correct gear lash.  If like you said the shims that are in the existing pumpkin gear set would make up the backlash just right that would be great but I'd hate to have the thing binding and then overheating and blowing up or whatever– or the other extreme where the thing has too much backlash and beats itself to death.

[indybobm]

Like Pancho, I have rebuilt a couple of final drives using GL1500 final drives. Ebay is a good source, try to get a final drive that includes its drive flange. That way they both have the same wear pattern. As for the 'lash', check the backlash on the original Valkyrie final drive before you take it apart. Then check it after the repair and reassembly to make sure it is the same.