Learning how to work on my 1997 Standard

[cogsman]

Hi All,

My first post! I'm a rider from Toronto Canada. I purchased a 97 from a mechanic I trusted. My own fault, as it turns out he closed down shop and left me with my Valk which I love to death, but it has problems. I was looking to sell it to a local dealer last year after sinking a bit of money into some head gasket issues. Long story short they wouldn't take it as they said there were some real concerns. The bike had been dropped, broken or bent parts, etc. They wouldn't give me anything for it, and I was looking to buy a new bike from them.

Im not a mechanic and I'm only two years into riding (this will be my third) and I admit I dont have the smarts to pick these things up by myself. I've realized I dont have a lot of common sense either lol but hey, live and learn.

Anyway the dealer I took it to suggested that I might make this a project. Get the old parts replaced a bit at a time. Eventually the bike will be good as new, though not original of course. Sounded like a great idea as I really love this bike.

In checking for various parts online though, and given that the bike already has modified parts on it, I cant even tell if it's a GL or a Tourer. The dealer want even sure.

Are there any surefire ways to know for sure before I start buying parts that may not fit?

And related question I guess is where do I start? Engine? major components? pegs? Exhaust? I'd appreciate any advice you may have for me.

[hubcapsc]

Post pictures here. Look at what is stamped on the steering head, and post that.
Learn what you're looking for and then look for it on eBay, though shipping stuff
to Canada might be expensive. Some folks near here found a salvage shop with a good rotating
stock of Valkyrie parts... lots of people can work on Valkyrie motors with good success,
but they are also available on eBay...

They're all GL1500s... most goldwing gl1500 parts won't fit on Valkyries, but most
Valkyrie parts will interchange...

-Mike

[gordonv]

Look at the VIN plate, for the GL1500??. You have C=standard, CT=tourer and CF for the interstate.

Post a few pictures of all 4 sides, and people can see what extras are on the bike and let you know what they are and their manufacturer.

How close are you to the border? I'm 20+ min, and get items shipped to the US border town and drive across myself and bring them back. Save $ on the shipping, almost as must as the part costs.

Replacing parts over time, as they become available inexpensively is a good idea. I do that just for buying parts that I want/need for spares or repairs.

[Louis Durocher]

Some parts are common to the gl1500 Goldwing
I bought a good ujoint from a wing for 35$ Can.
I would begin with the final drive and everithing around
After this is don  maybe the timing belts.
But first buy a shop manual.
Post some pics and good luck

[gordonv]

Some parts are common to the gl1500 Goldwing
I bought a good ujoint from a wing for 35$ Can.

Be careful of the year for the part. Some fit. Some are from the Valkyrie, as they where upgraded.

Rotors, u-joint, are 2 that come to mind. Almost all the motor parts are inter changeable, but some are different specs (cam shafts).

Post before you go out and buy a Goldwing (GW) part for the Valkyrie.

What kind of things are you looking for, plastic or mechanical?

[Gryphon Rider]

Look at the VIN plate, for the GL1500??. You have C=standard, CT=tourer and CF for the interstate.

My Canadian 2000 Tourer model number is GL1500CTY.

[John Schmidt]

As suggested, look at the VIN on the left side of the steering head/neck. Copy the number and look at the info below to determine what you have.


VIN DECODING: VALKYRIE AND RUNE
Code    Significance    Breakdown/Remarks
1HF    Production Origin    1HF = motorcycle manufactured by Honda of America Mfg. in Ohio (Had the Valkyrie been manufactured in Japan, the production origin code would have been "JH2". All Valkyries however, were manufactured at the Honda plant in Marysville Ohio, USA.)
SC340    Vehicle Description (variant)    See discussion on Variants next page
4    Check Digit    Can be the numbers 0-9 or the letter "X". This represents the result of an algorithm run against the other digits in the VIN. It is used to ensure that the VIN wasn’t mis-keyed or fabricated
V    Model Year    V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999    Y = 2000 1 = 2001 2 = 2002    3 4    = =    2003 2004
A    Plant where the product was made    A H   = =    Marysville Motorcycle Plant in Ohio USA Hamamatsu Plant in Japan (not applicable in the case of Valkyries, (see 1 above.)
0    Production Year   0   =    The initial model year for each variant (Standard, Tourer or Interstate) will be a "0". On Standards and Tourers for example, 1997 models will be a "0", 1998 models, a "1" and 1999 models, a "2".  For Interstates, the 1999 models will be a "0", for Runes, the 2004 models will be a "0", etc.
00123    Serial Number    Sequential numbers -"zeroed out" with each model year and with each variant. For example, there will be a 1997 Standard 49-state model with a serial number 00001, a 1997 Standard California model with a serial number 00001, a 1998 Tourer 49-state model with a serial number 00001, etc. Just because one’s bike may have serial number 00001, it doesn’t mean you have the first Valkyrie built, it means you have the first of that particular variant built that year. The VIN taken in whole is unique, but serial numbers are not. It should be noted that in some variants (most notably Australian), a "5" in the first digit of the serial number is used to designate that it is a Tourer.






Variants
The vehicle description portion of the VIN (characters 4-8) are used to identify the “variant”. It essentially identifies the basic model and the build standard used for the various markets and countries for which the bike is intended.
Breakdown/Remarks
SC340    =    Valkyrie Standard -US 49-State models, pre-2001 (some reported in Singapore)
SC341    =    Valkyrie Standard -US California models, pre-2001
SC342    =    Valkyrie Standard -Canadian models, pre-2001(some reported in Brazil)
SC346    =    Valkyrie Standard -US 49-State, 2001 and on
SC347    =    Valkyrie Standard -US California, 2001 and on
SC348    =    Valkyrie Standard -Canadian models, 2001 and on
SC34A    =    Valkyrie Standard -UK, Austrian, Belgian, French, Spanish and Swedish models
SC34B    =    Valkyrie Standard -German models
SC34C    =    Valkyrie Standard -Swiss models
SC34U    =    Valkyrie Standard & Tourers -Australian models (Standards & Tourers differentiated by serial number blocks)
SC34-   =    Valkyrie Standard & Tourers -Japanese models (Standards and Tourers differentiated by serial number blocks)
SC343    =    Valkyrie Tourers -US 49-State models
SC344    =    Valkyrie Tourers -US California models
SC345    =    Valkyrie Tourers -Canadian models
SC410    =    Valkyrie Interstate -US 49-State models
SC411    =    Valkyrie Interstate -US California models
SC412    =    Valkyrie Interstate -Canadian models
SC41U    =    Valkyrie Interstate -Australian models
SC530    =    Valkyrie Rune -US 49-State, Standard Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC531    =    Valkyrie Rune -US California, Standard Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC533    =    Valkyrie Rune -US 49-State, Pulled-back Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC534    =    Valkyrie Rune -US California, Pulled-back Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC535    =    Valkyrie Rune -Canadian, Standard Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC536    =    Valkyrie Rune -US 49-State, Standard Handlebars, Chrome Wheels
SC53J    =    Valkyrie Rune -US 49-State, Pulled-back Handlebars, Chrome Wheels
SC53K    =    Valkyrie Rune -US California, Pulled-back Handlebars, Chrome Wheels
SC53U    =    Valkyrie Rune -Australian models

[cogsman]

This sounds like a great start. I have pictures but I don't seem to have an "attach" button on my interface. How do I add a picture from my hard drive?

[R J]

This sounds like a great start. I have pictures but I don't seem to have an "attach" button on my interface. How do I add a picture from my hard drive?

Your picture has to be stored on the Internet.

You can not refer to a picture on your hard drive.

Once the picture is somewhere on the internet, you can add it to a post.

Look above this box you are typing in.
There is a row of Icons.
Middle row is:   Box #1 to be used for attaching pictures.  it will produce a img and a /img.   The url for your picture goes between these 2 img and their brackets. 

I use 'Smugmug' for my pictures.    It is a annual fee product.   Been with them 4 years and have not had a mixup in finding my photos.     Can't say that for 3 other different places.

[Willow]

You can actually usually tell at a glance.  Look for reflectors on the rear fender.  If they're there it's a Standard.  The Tourer's reflectors are on the bags.  There are a few other noticeable differences but that's the easy one.

[BF]

You can actually usually tell at a glance.  Look for reflectors on the rear fender.  If they're there it's a Standard.  The Tourer's reflectors are on the bags.  There are a few other noticeable differences but that's the easy one.

Not in all circumstances.  That's true if the bike hasn't been altered/modified. 

I gave my standard a makeover...it used to be a red & white...it no longer has the reflectors at the top of the rear fender. 

The best way is to look at the data plate on the frame neck. 

[Mike]

If you are looking for a complete engine, there is one listed on Kijiji in Oshawa.

[cogsman]

As suggested, look at the VIN on the left side of the steering head/neck. Copy the number and look at the info below to determine what you have.


VIN DECODING: VALKYRIE AND RUNE
Code    Significance    Breakdown/Remarks
1HF    Production Origin    1HF = motorcycle manufactured by Honda of America Mfg. in Ohio (Had the Valkyrie been manufactured in Japan, the production origin code would have been "JH2". All Valkyries however, were manufactured at the Honda plant in Marysville Ohio, USA.)
SC340    Vehicle Description (variant)    See discussion on Variants next page
4    Check Digit    Can be the numbers 0-9 or the letter "X". This represents the result of an algorithm run against the other digits in the VIN. It is used to ensure that the VIN wasn’t mis-keyed or fabricated
V    Model Year    V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999    Y = 2000 1 = 2001 2 = 2002    3 4    = =    2003 2004
A    Plant where the product was made    A H   = =    Marysville Motorcycle Plant in Ohio USA Hamamatsu Plant in Japan (not applicable in the case of Valkyries, (see 1 above.)
0    Production Year   0   =    The initial model year for each variant (Standard, Tourer or Interstate) will be a "0". On Standards and Tourers for example, 1997 models will be a "0", 1998 models, a "1" and 1999 models, a "2".  For Interstates, the 1999 models will be a "0", for Runes, the 2004 models will be a "0", etc.
00123    Serial Number    Sequential numbers -"zeroed out" with each model year and with each variant. For example, there will be a 1997 Standard 49-state model with a serial number 00001, a 1997 Standard California model with a serial number 00001, a 1998 Tourer 49-state model with a serial number 00001, etc. Just because one’s bike may have serial number 00001, it doesn’t mean you have the first Valkyrie built, it means you have the first of that particular variant built that year. The VIN taken in whole is unique, but serial numbers are not. It should be noted that in some variants (most notably Australian), a "5" in the first digit of the serial number is used to designate that it is a Tourer.






Variants
The vehicle description portion of the VIN (characters 4-8) are used to identify the “variant”. It essentially identifies the basic model and the build standard used for the various markets and countries for which the bike is intended.
Breakdown/Remarks
SC340    =    Valkyrie Standard -US 49-State models, pre-2001 (some reported in Singapore)
SC341    =    Valkyrie Standard -US California models, pre-2001
SC342    =    Valkyrie Standard -Canadian models, pre-2001(some reported in Brazil)
SC346    =    Valkyrie Standard -US 49-State, 2001 and on
SC347    =    Valkyrie Standard -US California, 2001 and on
SC348    =    Valkyrie Standard -Canadian models, 2001 and on
SC34A    =    Valkyrie Standard -UK, Austrian, Belgian, French, Spanish and Swedish models
SC34B    =    Valkyrie Standard -German models
SC34C    =    Valkyrie Standard -Swiss models
SC34U    =    Valkyrie Standard & Tourers -Australian models (Standards & Tourers differentiated by serial number blocks)
SC34-   =    Valkyrie Standard & Tourers -Japanese models (Standards and Tourers differentiated by serial number blocks)
SC343    =    Valkyrie Tourers -US 49-State models
SC344    =    Valkyrie Tourers -US California models
SC345    =    Valkyrie Tourers -Canadian models
SC410    =    Valkyrie Interstate -US 49-State models
SC411    =    Valkyrie Interstate -US California models
SC412    =    Valkyrie Interstate -Canadian models
SC41U    =    Valkyrie Interstate -Australian models
SC530    =    Valkyrie Rune -US 49-State, Standard Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC531    =    Valkyrie Rune -US California, Standard Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC533    =    Valkyrie Rune -US 49-State, Pulled-back Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC534    =    Valkyrie Rune -US California, Pulled-back Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC535    =    Valkyrie Rune -Canadian, Standard Handlebars, Cast Wheels
SC536    =    Valkyrie Rune -US 49-State, Standard Handlebars, Chrome Wheels
SC53J    =    Valkyrie Rune -US 49-State, Pulled-back Handlebars, Chrome Wheels
SC53K    =    Valkyrie Rune -US California, Pulled-back Handlebars, Chrome Wheels
SC53U    =    Valkyrie Rune -Australian models

Ok this was brilliant. So in decoding according to your list, I have a 1997 Standard Valkyrie manufactured in Marysville. That's half the battle right there. So I need to make sure that i will be purchasing parts for a Valkyrie Standard. THANK YOU JOHN SCHMIDT! Awesome info.

Going to look into that engine. At the very least it has replacement parts on it. I'll get some pics posted shortly.

[cogsman]

Some summertime pics of the bike.

[gordonv]

I still have some engine parts from my Interstate, and live in Canada.

What is it you are looking for, or looking to do?

[cogsman]

Essentially replace the worn or ugly parts on this bike with less worn and less ugly parts lol. Plus my engine is running very lean and somehow need to get it fixed. That I cannot do myself. But there are no cruiser mechanics near me. I'll worry about that later. Some if what I need to fix : horn. Petcock. Side plastic covers. Rear fender. Exhaust. Wiring. Foot boards. Heel toe shifter. Brake pedal. Mirrors.

[John Schmidt]

That tank almost looks like it could be the larger one off an Interstate. If so, you're in luck. The extra capacity is nice to have, the original was 5.3 gals if I recall correctly, the I/S is 6.9 gals.

[PhredValk]

Welcome to the club.
See if you can get in touch with a Toronto chapter of the GWRRA (Goldwing Road Riders Assn). Most chapters know of a few shops or persons who specialize in older and vintage Hondas.
PM or e-mail Chrome (Adrian) in the members listing, swontvrcc@sympatico.ca. He's the VRCC rep for Ontario and lives in London. He may be of help.
Keep us posted...
Fred.

[Andy Cote]

Please don’t take this wrong.  Not intending to criticize, just respond to your requests for help.

First, you state you are not a mechanic and have only been riding a couple years.  You say you bought this from a guy you know and trusted as a mechanic.  Later a dealer told you it has “issues” and it’s not worth anything in trade.  Why are you so sure the dealer is correct?  Many here have had bad experiences with Honda dealers, both sales and service, and most of these dealer staffs are unfamiliar with these bikes and/or trying to beat you down on the trade in.  If you want to sell it, the folks here are a much better group that actually appreciate what a great machine you own; most dealers will offer nothing for these in trade.  This is the dealer that didn’t even know what model you have!  As discussed above, if you have lost confidence in the first mechanic, a Goldwing specialist is often a better choice than a Honda dealership.

Your photos are good.  Can’t tell everything from them but they do show some very nice accessories, chrome parts, 6 into 6 exhaust, national cycle saddlebags, etc.  You list things that need repairs: horn, petcock, side plastic covers, rear fender, exhaust, wiring, foot boards (Heel toe shifter. Brake pedal), mirrors.  What specifically is wrong and why do you think that?  For example, just because the boards and exhaust are aftermarket, doesn’t make them bad.  Dealer may have said they’re not original but that doesn’t mandate they be changed.

Also you note that it’s running lean.  Again, why do you say this?  Pipes have been changed and carb jets may also have been changed or not.  This is an area where a good six cylinder mechanic can help.

How many miles on it?  How many of those are yours?

You have a great bike there.  It is almost 20 years old.  If you are willing to learn some basic mechanics, the folks here are willing to share and teach.

[cogsman]

Hi Andy,

All great points. Let me see if I can explain. Also I am a bit embarrassed and want to make this crystal clear: I dropped my intruder ONCE 2 years ago, but I have never dropped this Valkyrie. Believe me or not, but that's the truth lol.

First off, I am willing to learn what I can. That's why I'm here. I can only go by what the professionals tell me; they have a mech license, I don't. So I need to at least listen to what they're saying. However, I figured there needed to be more to the story, so I decided to come here, and ask fellow riders that don't have any monetary connection to me to help me understand the things I don't, with no BS.

I understand about dealers trying to beat us down on the trade in, but these dealers wanted nothing. They didn't lowball me, they just walked away! That HAS to say something, especially when 2 dealers do that. Unfortunately I think they were quite upset with me because I think they felt I was trying to pull something or scam them. Nothing could be further from the truth.

As for the parts:

National cycle saddlebags: somewhat warped + no key for locks
Saddlebag mounts: one is obviously bent, probably on the side the bike was dropped
Final drive on rear wheel: crackling pattern all over it (cosmetic only I hope, but it looks like crap)
Horn: doesn't look original and not mounted properly
Petcock: the last mechanic who worked on the bike (left the country now) told me it was broken
Side plastic covers: I have verified the pins and receptacle are warped, cracked, or broken; the one on the right is hanging on only by 1 pin
Rear fender: painted over rust and banged up edge
Exhaust: bent tips
Wiring: a TON of wire bunched up under the rear fender which got ripped off a week after i got the bike when the rear wheel bottomed out (since fixed but still a ton of wire)
Foot boards: they're ugly and frankly a bit weird looking for the bike
Heel toe shifter: bent control and rust at the pivot point
Brake pedal: rubber is coming off
Mirrors: pitted and dull

My radiator cover mounts are also broken, and the mesh around the coolant pipe is frayed (not too badly)

I don't need the bike to be original (though it would be nice), but I need it to look good and I want to know what has been put on it. There are a lot of mounting points that seem to have something "missing" but I have no reference so I don't know what it might be. I was told the tank was larger than original, and I love the tank. So even if I could get an original tank I wouldn't replace it. But I would love to have Valkyrie badges for the tank.

So all this to say that I only want to replace things that need to be replaced. Not replace them just because.

In addition, there is a windshield mount bolted right to the forks; one dealer told me that because of that, he thought it was a Tourer (?) Needless to say, I have no windshield.

I also have 2 chrome caps for the bottom of the forks; one side fits, the other side doesn't, and I can't figure out why.

I say it's running lean because the dealers I spoke to reference the bluing of the pipes. And I simply don't have enough expertise to argue that.

The bike has 15000 km showing on the ODO, with 5000 of those being mine. I bought the bike with 10,000 on it, but there is no way that's correct. The mechanic I bought it from, whom I trusted, told me the bike was bought, the guy rode it to Florida and back once, and then he got cancer and died. So the bike only had 10K on it. I believed him, but I've been laughed at by a lot of pros who take a look at the bike and said "110K maybe, but not 10K".

So again, what do I know? Not a lot. But the fact that the mechanic closed up his shop and buggered off to Costa Rica says a lot I think. Hey, nobody's fault but my own on that one.

What does it all come down to? I fell in love with this bike the moment I rode it. It's a big bike, and I'm a big guy, so it fits me. I love how audacious it is. I love that massive engine. I love the balance. I love everything about it.

So when I was told to junk it, I said screw that! And that's why I'm here. To see what can be done. I'm looking for advice from people who know.

Hope that clears this up.

[hubcapsc]

Those aftermarket single wall pipes are supposed to blue...

I'm not sure what's wrong with your petcock, but it needs fixed, real
bad things could happen, search hydrolock on this board.

The brake pedal doesn't have rubber on it, maybe it is just a
cover... I got rid of my hateful cover when I got my bike, there was
a nice OEM pedal hiding underneath it.

The plastic side covers co$t a million dollars, search on this
board how to fix them, you might want to go with the velcro
fix, don't wait till they blow off...

There's a channel in the rear fender that wiring was supposed
to be in...

-Mike

[Savago]

Dear Friend

It is *possible* to fix the bike and to do it by yourself. It is highly satisfying and this forum plus the service manual can answer most of your questions.

Doesn't mean you should. Explaining: based on what you just said about your motorcycle, it will require lots of hours of work and may end up costing more than buying another valkyrie.

Have you considered the idea of just buying another valkyrie and use the old one as a parts bike (assuming you can't really sell it)?

Regards


Savago

[KG]

Take some clear close up pictures of the bike you would be amazed at the stuff these guys can find in a picture.
look in the shop talk sections for how to do things and what you need and what parts will cross over without having to go to a dealer.

Search youtube for Valkyrie videos there are a bunch of how to videos

Don't worry about the miles these bikes are like the energizer bunny they just keep on going as long as you do your part and keep up the maintenance.

[Savago]

And a final tip about dealers and motorcycle shops: when I showed the oil leaks in the intakes to a 'qualified' mechanic and asked how to fix it, he said it would require to drop the engine from the bike!! And it would cost me 800-1000 dollars.

Needless to say, I did the intake o-rings replacement by myself and it costed 15 bucks for the o-rings and 2h30m of work.


Savago

[The emperor has no clothes]

From what you've posted so far, I would forget everything the dealer has told you.

[cokebottle10]

Do you have a place that you can work on the bike?
Does it run well? Start easy?
Handling  issues?
Any leaks? Shifter seal and shocks are common. Motor is not.
Any smoke when running? Left side just after starting is normal if it clears up when warm.
Fluids look okay? Brake and clutch should be clear, oil clean, radiator should be clean and bluish if Honda fluid.
Besides the horn what else does not work?

Things like this will determine if you should fix or replace it. It will also help others on this site help you in fixing it. Posting close up photos of the problem will help a lot.

Pick something and start there. If it were mine I think I would start with the horn. If you look at bikes on this site you should be able to find a photo of a Standard with the stock horn. It mounts on the right side near the oil filter. If you find the two wire connector then use a test light on the connector. There is no relay for the horn. Just push the button and it should light the test light. The fuses are behind the right side cover.

The side covers are easy to fix just use search to see what other have done. This is a common problem.

Reading “shop talk” at the top of the page will help a lot. You should be able to fix a lot of things with little or no money if you have a place that you can work on it.

Thanks, David in Fletcher NC

[cogsman]

I can work on it in my garage. It starts easy. Runs well? That is hard to say. I think so.

When I start the bike and choke it, then bring it back, the revs are way above the 800-900 rpm recommended. I tried adjusting the idle speed using the knob but it doesn't do anything.

Bike had a head gasket leak.

Brought it to Honda to "fix". They did a crap job, and somehow messed up the camshaft such that a bolt started flying around and the net of it was that it knocked out my left engine bank.

Got that fixed for 1300 bucks and managed to get Honda to refund the $1300 I paid THEM to do just the head gasket replacement (yup, you read that right), so I came out even.

The last mechanic told me he had welded something or other so that the situation could not happen again. It has run reliably since, but I'm not sure where I sit with the engine.

The bike is VERY loud. Not pleasing at all.

Yes, I could by another Valkyrie. But I won't. I'm $6000 in on this one as it is. So my philosophy is, the only way out is through!

You guys gave me a line on a valkyrie engine which should help me to salvage replacement engine parts if needed. I'm going to take advantage of that and see what happens. So far, you guys are inspiring me to try.

[Chrisj CMA]

I would find out what was welded, where on the engine.  Post a pic of that weld, doesn't sound good

[Savago]

Rough idling generally means that the carb slow jets are clogged. You can try to run a bottle of seafoam/techron to see if it gets better (that is easy to do).

If still is idling rough, it may require to rebuild the carbs (there are posts here in the forum with tips).


Savago

[Andy Cote]

Sounds like you have a good plan. 

Petcock should probably be the first task.  Many people here have gone with the electric operated one by Pingel rather than the original vacuum operated one.

Side cover repairs, either ABS repairs to plastic, using Velcro or tie wraps are all straight forward and posted here.  Good to do right away before you lose one.

There are several photos on the web about spark plugs to judge if it's lean or not.  Note that this could change if you change the pipes.  Also, based on other work that's been done, The carbs may likely not be well synchronized.

You can always go with aftermarket foot pegs from Showchome or Kuryakyn or just watch the ads here for originals.  Same for the mirrors.

Original tank badges come up for sale here and on EBay or can be bought from a Honda dealer.  They are simple to install.

Next rear tire change, pull the final drive and do it's maintenance (see tech pages).  The case is Aluminum and will clean up nice and shiny.

[cokebottle10]

"Welded something or other" does not sound good   I would love to see a photo of that weld. Can you see it or is it under the valve cover or under the timing belt cover?

The high idle can be fixed. A good place to start is by taking off the crome covers that cover the carb leakage on both sides. Look and see if they are working the same on both sides, do the cables look good? Is the throttle handle returning back okay? This only takes a few minutes to check.

Checking the fuel shut off is a good idea that should be done soon. The best way is to remove the tank. This will also give you a chance to check the air filter under the tank.

Again "shop talk" is your freind and you already know how to do the hard part...post photos

Thanks, David in Fletcher NC

[gordonv]

First, are you still riding (no, it's snowing) or do you need to wait till spring?

If the bike is stored up, do you have Seafoam or some other fuel stabilizer in the fuel? You should.

First tank of the year, high doses of carb cleaner. Like 1/2 can of Techron (Seafoam, or Berrymans B12) to 1/2 a tank of gas.

As soon as you start riding it again. Before you change the petcock, verify if it is working. When on a long drive, turn the fuel off, and it should start to sputter after a mile or more, then turn back on. You have other things to worry about it. But do your research and look up hydro lock, and see how high on the list of priorities you want to make it on your list of things to do. I've a Honda fuel pump to add to mine, instead of the fuel shut off solenoid or pingle.

The mirrors, a LOT of Hondas use the same one. There is no left/right mirror, they just loosen and adjust the other direction. Shadows are the same.

Horn. Info given. I have a set of high/low from a GL1800 I'll add to my bike. Search is your friend, others have added on car horns from the wreckers. Consider a relay if you need to work on your existing one.

Floor boards and heel toe shifter are not stock, replace with OEM till you can find another.

Rear fender, usually a few around inexpensively on ebay.

Pipes, already said, after market, and usually end up bluing (thinner walled steel?). Search. I'm thinking of that baffling steel wool to make them quitter. I like the OEM, but they can be expensive. You might be able to swap/partial trade what you have to someone else.

Most items I buy, are from ebay. Keep looking. Gives you a feel for the price they sell for. Pinwall is an ebay wrecker who has fair prices, not great, not high or cheap, but fair, and usually have what you want.

Do you know how many liters your tank will take? 20L for your model, and 26L for the IS tank. The IS tank would have a fuel sending unit underneath. Yours could have a metal plate instead, since the other bikes don't have a fuel gauge. But how much fuel you can fill when you hit reserve is easiest.

[cogsman]

I need to wait till spring. I do have fuel stabilizer in the tank.

10-4 on the rest.

I believe my tank is the 26L but I don't know if there is a fuel sending unit underneath.I'll have to do the reserve fuel check, though if the petcock isn't working properly that could be a problem lol.

[cogsman]

Hi All,

Update: I bought the engine that Mike referred to on Kijiji; it is the block, pistons, and right cylinder head. Fantastic shape, and I got it for a steal. Should help for replacement parts and for practice lol.

I bought the service manual and can't wait to get my hands dirty. So on that note:

I'm seeing a lot of posts regarding a motorcycle lift. I had my eye on a J&S jack, but their website says that it is not compatible with the Valkyrie because the pipes are in the way. There is a lot of talk on this board about Valkyrie adapters, but no one is really explaining what they are for and why they are needed. The adapters referenced on ebay don't really tell me anything unless I already know what I'm buying and why.

Can someone quickly explain why an adapter is needed? Why not just buy a jack that fits? And to that end, what jack/adapter combination is best?

As you can see in my pics, I have a side-stand and cobra 6 into 6. Before I spend any money I'd like to understand the situation and my options.

Thanks everyone!

[hubcapsc]

The various adapters make it so that a generic motorcycle lift will work with
a Valkyrie...

There's some info on Shoptalk, including this guide to building a home made
adapter...

http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

And here's a guy who modified one of the most common bought-on-ebay
adapters...

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/CustomLift/lift.htm

There's such  a thing as an adapter that stays on your bike, I have one
of them, they work well, but have some "gotchas" in case you decide
to get one.

The main "gotcha" with the big clunky metal one is: don't forget to
take it off when you're done! 

-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

Hi All,

Update: I bought the engine that Mike referred to on Kijiji; it is the block, pistons, and right cylinder head. Fantastic shape, and I got it for a steal. Should help for replacement parts and for practice lol.

I bought the service manual and can't wait to get my hands dirty. So on that note:

I'm seeing a lot of posts regarding a motorcycle lift. I had my eye on a J&S jack, but their website says that it is not compatible with the Valkyrie because the pipes are in the way. There is a lot of talk on this board about Valkyrie adapters, but no one is really explaining what they are for and why they are needed. The adapters referenced on ebay don't really tell me anything unless I already know what I'm buying and why.

Can someone quickly explain why an adapter is needed? Why not just buy a jack that fits? And to that end, what jack/adapter combination is best?

As you can see in my pics, I have a side-stand and cobra 6 into 6. Before I spend any money I'd like to understand the situation and my options.

Thanks everyone!

The reason for the adapter is not because the jack doesn't fit.  A standard lift "fits" the underside of the Valkyrie better than most motorcycles.  The reason for the adapter is that the balance point is such that the lift needs to be positioned farther back than the frame and stuff will allow without the adapter. 

[MP]

Those pipes look like Two Brothers.  A sought after pipe. Can you straighten the ends?  They are loud! The bluing is NORMAL. I have some on my 97.  They are blued.

Methinks your dealer does NOT know much.  He doesn't even know how to figure out what model it is?  RUN AWAY. Do not believe anything he said. I do NOT think your bike is running lean.

MP

[Willow]

You've already received some really good answers mixed with a few instances of really bad advice.

Here are some things for you to know.   It is a standard.  The tank is not a Standard tank. 

The pipes are Two Brothers.  They do not normally blue but they can by excessive heating.  It can happen just by letting the bike sit still idling for a long time.  The bluing will mostly clean up with a product called Blue Away and a fair amount of elbow grease.  The suggestion for steel wool baffling does not apply to Two Brothers pipes.  If you don't like the volume level your next move is changing to OEM pipes.  If you clean up those TBRs you can just about swap even.

There is no electric petcock from Pingle.  I think the poster was thinking of a combination of non-vacuum Pingle and a Dan Marc valve.

There are several items on your list that don't call for replacing, but maybe just some cleaning.  Among them I don't see why you feel the mirrors must be replaced.

Bags are expensive.  If you need them for Touring they can be worth the cost.

The appearance on the outside of the final drive is cosmetic only.  It can be removed by your stripping the coating from the aluminum.

Perhaps you best route would be to focus on one fix at a time, post really close pictures for that fix, and get what help you can from the board.

There is a good Canadian Valkyrie wrench we know of bu he is four hundred miles from you in London.  Maybe you could find some help by posting on the General board with your location that you are looking for someone familiar with the Valkyrie to guide you.

Good fortune to you in your quest.  It's a good looking bike.     

[Valkjerk]

Willow, correct me if I'm wrong but if the purple on the bike is original, that would mean it's a standard as you said. I don't think they produced any purple tourers, did they?

[cogsman]

I will do that,  willow for sure. Im excited about trying my hand at some of these fixes