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Author Topic: Learning how to work on my 1997 Standard  (Read 4381 times)
cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #40 on: March 14, 2015, 03:24:48 PM »

Hi again everyone,

So I've started my work, and the first thing I decided to do was remove my saddlebags. The mounts are clearly bent so at some point I'll get new ones, maybe Leatherlykes or Corbin. But here's my issue: when I removed the bag supports, the bolts that came out are EXTREMELY long... The chrome piece on the fender to which they were attached is now unsecured, and I can't just use these same bolts.

The larger bolt doesn't go in far enough. I can screw in the smaller bolt all the way against that chrome piece, but then feeling under the fender the bolt is jutting out quite far. So far, in fact, that I am certain that if I were to bottom out the bike the rear wheel would get shredded by that protruding screw.

See the pics below. You can see the bag support that I removed. What might you all suggest I do to fix this? I don't have the original bolts.



« Last Edit: March 22, 2015, 09:27:38 AM by cogsman » Logged
quexpress
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Posts: 519


Montreal, Québec, Canada


WWW
« Reply #41 on: March 14, 2015, 04:17:37 PM »

I would suggest to contact Adrian. His email is on this page:
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/chapters/canada.htm
Adrian can certainly point you towards a few Valkyrie riders in the Toronto area who could help you out.
Your Valk looks good! IMHO it's a keeper!  cooldude
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I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower ...
gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #42 on: March 14, 2015, 09:30:32 PM »

I would also suggest not removing both bolts at the same time. Some have problems with the alignment.
« Last Edit: March 14, 2015, 09:47:00 PM by gordonv » Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #43 on: March 14, 2015, 09:51:04 PM »

I had the same thought so I replaced both. They seem to have gone back in fine (I should be good there right? I didn't misalign anything did I if they went back in?). I'll make sure I swap them one at a time. I think the big one is a 10mm bolt and the smaller an 8mm. Any ideas on the correct length? Clymers doesnt specify
« Last Edit: March 22, 2015, 09:27:21 AM by cogsman » Logged
KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #44 on: March 15, 2015, 04:29:12 AM »

I had the same thought so I replaced both. They seem to have gone back in fine (I should be good there right? I didn't misalign anything did I if they went back in?). I'll make sure I swap them one at a time. I think the big one is a 10mm bolt and the smaller an 8mm. Any ideas on the correct length? Clymers doesnt specify

You are correct. There is a 10 mm and an 8 mm on either side. My Honda manual doesn't give length as it could be different for standard, tourer and interstate. While installed and sticking out under the fender further then it should, mark them. Then remove 1 at a time and measure the length you need for that one and reinstall and get the measurement for the next. Then go buy what you need.
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cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #45 on: March 21, 2015, 02:51:20 PM »

Ok, so I wanted to show you how far the original 10mm bolt sticks out when installed WITHOUT the bracket, about 10mm (clearly the extra is to accommodate the size of the bracket mount):



So I went out and got two more bolts, one which was 10x50mm long and the other 10x45mm just in case (original bolt on left):



I tried putting both new bolts in... however, they won't go in all the way for some reason... the 45mm long bolt goes in the furthest, however it catches after literally 3 turns, which does not evoke a lot of faith on my part regarding gripping strength.

Here is the 50mm long bolt installed:



What am I doing wrong? Should I have bought bolts without that smooth section?
« Last Edit: March 22, 2015, 09:27:11 AM by cogsman » Logged
Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #46 on: March 21, 2015, 05:08:32 PM »

None of those bolts are OEM if you want the correct bolts order them through a Honda dealer or one of the parts houses.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
salty1
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Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #47 on: March 21, 2015, 06:18:51 PM »

None of those bolts are OEM if you want the correct bolts order them through a Honda dealer or one of the parts houses.



http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1997/GL1500C+A/REAR+FENDER+%2B+GRAB+RAIL/parts.html

OEM sizes are 8X45 and 10X50.
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #48 on: March 22, 2015, 09:19:38 AM »

Does anybody have an idea what this mounting bracket (right in the center of the pic) is for?


« Last Edit: March 22, 2015, 09:26:45 AM by cogsman » Logged
KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
*****
Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #49 on: March 22, 2015, 09:40:16 AM »

That bracket is not stock but is attached where the stock horn is normally attached. It may be a bracket to attach an aftermarket horn at some point although most mount them elsewhere. The stock horn is generally replaced by most for something more to get better attention when needed.
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cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #50 on: March 22, 2015, 09:56:10 AM »

Ok, great. My horn is mounted here:



So i guess I can remove that bracket and move the horn too. I don't particularly like the horn where it is.
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Bighead
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Madison Alabama


« Reply #51 on: March 22, 2015, 09:59:53 AM »

Yep horn should be where that bracket is.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #52 on: March 22, 2015, 10:00:33 AM »

Ok, so I wanted to show you how far the original 10mm bolt sticks out when installed WITHOUT the bracket, about 10mm (clearly the extra is to accommodate the size of the bracket mount):



So I went out and got two more bolts, one which was 10x50mm long and the other 10x45mm just in case (original bolt on left):



I tried putting both new bolts in... however, they won't go in all the way for some reason... the 45mm long bolt goes in the furthest, however it catches after literally 3 turns, which does not evoke a lot of faith on my part regarding gripping strength.

Here is the 50mm long bolt installed:



What am I doing wrong? Should I have bought bolts without that smooth section?


The bolts you purchased are not the correct thread pitch, do not force them in. You can see in the picture that the thread pitch is different between the one on the left and the other two,, try putting the threads into each other, they will not match. I would suggest buying the originals from Partzilla as was suggested, or taking what was in there to the hardware store or bolt and screw to insure you get the correct ones.              One step at a time,, there is no hurry.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
dpcarson
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Posts: 405


Lillington, NC


« Reply #53 on: March 22, 2015, 10:00:59 AM »

That is definitely a beautiful bike.  Definitely worth the work I would think.  If, not.......  call me.  I am finishing up one project and may be ready for another one soon!  That purple is nice.  If you need a parts manual in printed version let me know.  I downloaded the whole thing and creating a single pdf parts manual i can email to you.  I like printed copies that I can sit with while working on the bike.
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6450


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #54 on: March 22, 2015, 10:01:29 AM »

Looks like someone took off whatever horn she had, I suspect that's a horn wire strapped there.  Is there a small compressor mounted somewhere?

Your shield mounts are OEM for a Tourer, you should only have to get a screen with it's hardware and some bolts, spacers and rubber pieces and you'd be good to go.  There's usually one for sale in the classified's or on E-bay.

If you go to one of the many parts sellers on the web, you can study the graphics for every single nut, bolt and part, and it will help you understand what is OEM and what is not.  Look for a GL1500CT in your year.

Looks like you might need a intake o-ring replacement.  Easy job for someone just starting to get his tools broken in.

Hang in there and ask a lot of questions here and you'll have her running great by spring, if it shows up.  28 frigging degrees here.
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #55 on: March 22, 2015, 10:03:39 AM »

Do yourself a favor and download for free the manual for reference here
http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
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Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #56 on: March 22, 2015, 10:05:53 AM »

Looks like someone took off whatever horn she had, I suspect that's a horn wire strapped there.  Is there a small compressor mounted somewhere?

Your shield mounts are OEM for a Tourer, you should only have to get a screen with it's hardware and some bolts, spacers and rubber pieces and you'd be good to go.  There's usually one for sale in the classified's or on E-bay.

If you go to one of the many parts sellers on the web, you can study the graphics for every single nut, bolt and part, and it will help you understand what is OEM and what is not.  Look for a GL1500CT in your year.

Looks like you might need a intake o-ring replacement.  Easy job for someone just starting to get his tools broken in.

Hang in there and ask a lot of questions here and you'll have her running great by spring, if it shows up.  28 frigging degrees here.

His was a standard, NOT a tourer. Let's be sure we direct him correctly.
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6450


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #57 on: March 22, 2015, 10:09:44 AM »

Yeah, but I was steering him there for the screen hardware. 

Was it decided it was a standard or not?  I must have missed that.
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
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Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #58 on: March 22, 2015, 10:11:18 AM »

Yeah, but I was steering him there for the screen hardware. 

Was it decided it was a standard or not?  I must have missed that.

Its a standard but I see what you're saying for the screen  cooldude
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cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #59 on: March 22, 2015, 10:22:16 AM »

Thanks guys,

I've downloaded the manual. This seems much more detailed than my Clymers. Though the Clymers seems to be a bit more digestible for a Noob.

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heavyd
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Posts: 177



« Reply #60 on: March 22, 2015, 05:58:29 PM »

Nice to see another Purple Valkyrie, it's almost too bad you don't have the standard tank still. If it's a Canadian bike, there was only 40 of them made, I have one.  Grin

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/Production%20By%20Color.html
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cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #61 on: March 22, 2015, 06:36:13 PM »

Heavyd that's pretty amazing info. I had no idea.
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #62 on: March 22, 2015, 08:09:57 PM »

I had never found that page.

Honda Canada did send me a letter stating the quantity of Honda Shadows ACE Tourers imported into Canada in 98', the year of my bike.

But I could never get the production qty from Honda USA for the requirement of my insurance company to classify it as a limited production motorcycle, making it a collector bike at only 15 years instead of 25, eligible for discounted insurance of less than $300 instead of $1000 a year.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

cogsman
Member
*****
Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #63 on: March 23, 2015, 09:45:03 AM »

Hook#3287, can you please help me to understand what you meant about the O-rings? My understanding is that the intake o-rings mount where the manifold intake meets the engine. How do you know those need to be replaced?

Or are you referring to the rubber collar that you can see in the picture at the top of the manifold? If so, same question, how do you know?

Thanks in advance!

A

Looks like someone took off whatever horn she had, I suspect that's a horn wire strapped there.  Is there a small compressor mounted somewhere?

Your shield mounts are OEM for a Tourer, you should only have to get a screen with it's hardware and some bolts, spacers and rubber pieces and you'd be good to go.  There's usually one for sale in the classified's or on E-bay.

If you go to one of the many parts sellers on the web, you can study the graphics for every single nut, bolt and part, and it will help you understand what is OEM and what is not.  Look for a GL1500CT in your year.

Looks like you might need a intake o-ring replacement.  Easy job for someone just starting to get his tools broken in.

Hang in there and ask a lot of questions here and you'll have her running great by spring, if it shows up.  28 frigging degrees here.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16783


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #64 on: March 23, 2015, 09:55:50 AM »

Hook#3287, can you please help me to understand what you meant about the O-rings? My understanding is that the intake o-rings mount where the manifold intake meets the engine. How do you know those need to be replaced?

Or are you referring to the rubber collar that you can see in the picture at the top of the manifold? If so, same question, how do you know?

Thanks in advance!

A

Looks like someone took off whatever horn she had, I suspect that's a horn wire strapped there.  Is there a small compressor mounted somewhere?

Your shield mounts are OEM for a Tourer, you should only have to get a screen with it's hardware and some bolts, spacers and rubber pieces and you'd be good to go.  There's usually one for sale in the classified's or on E-bay.

If you go to one of the many parts sellers on the web, you can study the graphics for every single nut, bolt and part, and it will help you understand what is OEM and what is not.  Look for a GL1500CT in your year.

Looks like you might need a intake o-ring replacement.  Easy job for someone just starting to get his tools broken in.

Hang in there and ask a lot of questions here and you'll have her running great by spring, if it shows up.  28 frigging degrees here.

At the base of the middle one on the right side it looks like there's a stain.

That is a sign to replace them.

-Mike
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Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #65 on: March 23, 2015, 10:28:21 AM »

+1
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
cogsman
Member
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #66 on: March 23, 2015, 04:53:01 PM »

OK I'll get on that. Anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove that stain?
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blackvalkyrie
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Posts: 281


California


« Reply #67 on: March 23, 2015, 05:01:31 PM »

should come off with engine parts cleaner in a spray can..mine were all leaking 6 of em.. and that stain came right off

OK I'll get on that. Anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove that stain?
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DK
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Posts: 616


Little Rock


« Reply #68 on: March 27, 2015, 05:16:17 PM »

Ok, great. My horn is mounted here:



So i guess I can remove that bracket and move the horn too. I don't particularly like the horn where it is.



Consider tossing it. Doesn't look to be original.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2015, 05:18:05 PM by DK » Logged

Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #69 on: March 28, 2015, 11:39:54 AM »

So i guess I can remove that bracket and move the horn too. I don't particularly like the horn where it is.
Consider tossing it. Doesn't look to be original.
What if he needs to toot?
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14783


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #70 on: March 28, 2015, 12:05:19 PM »

So i guess I can remove that bracket and move the horn too. I don't particularly like the horn where it is.
Consider tossing it. Doesn't look to be original.
What if he needs to toot?

TOOT well a muffled "toot" is all he will be able to produce with a wimpy OEM horn tucked in there sideways behind the leg while riding.  Horrible place for a meep meep horn, but that's iust me.
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