I'm at a total and complete loss...Headlight Gremlin!

[Mitchapalooza]

Hey Folks,

As I said, I've been out in the garage for three hours now and I'm at a total and complete loss - on the verge of insanity, and not enough beer in the world to make it better.

I've had a few electrical gremlins as of recent, and it has kept me from riding, which is unacceptable.  On the way back from my ranch, the turn signal/brake light fuse blew.  No big deal. 
Prior to that, I was having starting/ignition and headlight issues, which of course led me to service the starter switch prongs.  No issues with that since.

Most recently (as in about a month ago), I've got no headlights.  I didn't notice - as I do have a pair of good highway lights, but I saw my reflection in another car and I have no high or low beam.  Below are the facts and what I have done so far.  I'm completely open to suggestions, help, miracles:

*The blue high beam indicator on the headlight housing works when the high/low beam switch is toggled!
Checked the fuse, all of them, in fact - Good (hence the high beam indicator working)
Disassembled the starter switch housing (4 times) to ensure it is good - It is.
Bridged contacts on both starter terminals and Headlight terminals on said switch - starter function is flawless, no luck with headlight.
Disassembled the high/low beam switch - contacts cleaned, continuity tested, indicator light works, all good.
Removed Halogen Bulb and checked for continuity - Good.
Ensured there is a relay installed or for aftermarket highway lights or they are on a separate circuit - They are on a separate circuit.
Tested for appropriate continuity/power at all points from battery ground (starter switch, high/low beam switch, at three headlight terminals) - All appear to be good. 
Gone through Clymer manual wiring schematic to trace appropriate wiring (now, I'm no electrical genius but I can generally work my way through a schematic) - As far as I can tell, everything looks okay.

That is about it.  I've been beating my head up against the wall here.  I'm about to the point of putting it all back together and taking it to a shop (which I have NEVER done, ever). 
If anyone has a fool proof way of troubleshooting this issue, I'm all ears.  If anyone lives in the DFW area (I'm in Fort Worth by TCU) that is better at this kind of thing and can help me fix it.  I will be at your door with a case of beer first thing tomorrow after work with a case of beer.  My girl works for MillerCoors, so I've got a pallet of it and happy to share!

Please help and thanks ahead of time for your replies!

[98valk]

install a new bulb if u haven't already. sometimes the filament is broken and vibration makes it work on and off.

[chrise2469]

When your are checking the voltage at the headlight terminal are you using the frame/nacelle for ground or are you using the ground in the the terminal?

I would check the ground for the terminal- I can't recall if this was a direct to frame ground or a bullet that ties in somewhere. 

If you ground is good try a new bulb.

[indybobm]

Not sure how good the Clymer schematics are but these are better. They are located in Shoptalk (link included below) and are excellent.
At the top of the page you will see 'Valkyrie Standard/Tourer models' amd 'Valkyrie Interstate models'.
Click on whichever applies to your Valk.

RP's Expanded Valkyrie Wiring Diagrams

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/index.html

[Chrisj CMA]

As far as a reason for that blown fuse, I would inspect the wire bundle under the rear fender.  The bad news on that one is you probably need to remove the rear wheel  PITA but a chance to re-grease the splines.... Also look close at the connector at the fender(s) junction.  Not sure what to say about the headlight

[indybobm]

On the way back from my ranch, the turn signal/brake light fuse blew.  No big deal. 

Are you saying that the turn signal/brake light fuse has NOT blown again? How are you checking your fuses?

[indybobm]

According to Sheet 3 of the schematics from the above link, the headlight has its own 10 amp fuse. From the fuse, it is a Black/Red wire to the start switch in the right handlebar switch. When the atrt button IS NOT pushed, 12vdc comes through the switch to a Blue/White wire that goes ti the Dimmer switch in the left handlebar switch. From the Dimmer switch it goes to the headlight bulb via a Blue or White wire depending on the position of the switch.

Following checks are with the ignition switch on and the start button NOT depressed.
Be careful not to short anything to metal.

Do you have 12vdc at the Black/Red wire at the Start switch in the right handlebar switch?
Do you have 12vdc at the Blue/White wire at the Start switch in the right handlebar switch?

Do you have 12vdc at the Blue/White wire at the Dimmer switch in the left handlebar switch?
  If not, there is a bayonet connection before it gets to the Dimmer switch. Check that, should be in  the headlight bucket.

Then check for 12vdc at the Blue or White wire at the Dimmer switch depending on which position the switch is in.

[nogrey]

I'm an electronics engineer and have read through this thread. First off, very good advice! You guys are top notch. One thing I saw that I really liked was the suggestion to replace the halogen bulb. From experience I can tell you that these are very deceiving when continuity tested, and often show good but are not.
Another thing, if you are measuring 12v on the two terminals that deliver current to the bulb, that is not a "tell all". It is possible to have voltage but no potential, in other words, putting a load on it may drop the voltage to near nothing if there is a partially open connection between the lamp and the power source. I just troubleshot a problem on an X-Ray system that has been ongoing for 6 months. I finally found the issue by flexing individual wires. They can break over time internally just from flexing. 
Good luck and let us know how it goes. These problems can be a nightmare.

[BobB]

According to Sheet 3 of the schematics from the above link, the headlight has its own 10 amp fuse. From the fuse, it is a Black/Red wire to the start switch in the right handlebar switch. When the atrt button IS NOT pushed, 12vdc comes through the switch to a Blue/White wire that goes ti the Dimmer switch in the left handlebar switch. From the Dimmer switch it goes to the headlight bulb via a Blue or White wire depending on the position of the switch.

Following checks are with the ignition switch on and the start button NOT depressed.
Be careful not to short anything to metal.

Do you have 12vdc at the Black/Red wire at the Start switch in the right handlebar switch?
Do you have 12vdc at the Blue/White wire at the Start switch in the right handlebar switch?

Do you have 12vdc at the Blue/White wire at the Dimmer switch in the left handlebar switch?
  If not, there is a bayonet connection before it gets to the Dimmer switch. Check that, should be in  the headlight bucket.

Then check for 12vdc at the Blue or White wire at the Dimmer switch depending on which position the switch is in.

This is very good advice.  Tracing the voltage path using the wiring schematic always works.  I'd just add that starting in the middle will diagnose the problem quicker.  I had your problem on my Tourer a few years back and it turned out to be the high/low beam switch.  It just needed to be cleaned up, but I have since added relays that reduce the amperage that go through that switch and the starter switch.

[Mitchapalooza]

install a new bulb if u haven't already. sometimes the filament is broken and vibration makes it work on and off.

I will go ahead and pick one up today and try that just to eliminate that potential failure.  Question though, if I decide to go with an LED, would I need to install a resistor with it?  My 2015 Ram is much smarter and doesn't like subtle changes to the electrical system, the Valk, however is much more simplistic so I don't know.  I'm sure there are multiple threads on this, though I'm curious if you guys have a bulb type preference...

[Mitchapalooza]

When your are checking the voltage at the headlight terminal are you using the frame/nacelle for ground or are you using the ground in the the terminal?

I would check the ground for the terminal- I can't recall if this was a direct to frame ground or a bullet that ties in somewhere. 

If you ground is good try a new bulb.

I have been utilizing the ground at the terminal for the majority of these checks.  However, the frame under the tank that meets the triple tree is a solid ground as well, I've found.

[Mitchapalooza]

Not sure how good the Clymer schematics are but these are better. They are located in Shoptalk (link included below) and are excellent.
At the top of the page you will see 'Valkyrie Standard/Tourer models' amd 'Valkyrie Interstate models'.
Click on whichever applies to your Valk.

RP's Expanded Valkyrie Wiring Diagrams

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/index.html

Thanks a lot for the supplemental schematic!  The Clymer is a good, color diagram, though much smaller and can be more difficult to reference - especially after a few beers and at 2am.

[Mitchapalooza]

As far as a reason for that blown fuse, I would inspect the wire bundle under the rear fender.  The bad news on that one is you probably need to remove the rear wheel  PITA but a chance to re-grease the splines.... Also look close at the connector at the fender(s) junction.  Not sure what to say about the headlight

You're killing me, Smalls!  Last thing I want to do right now is pull the back wheel off!  I really think it was an isolated incident.  That fuse blew only once, randomly.  The only other time(s) I have blown that fuse was when installing a trunk for a long trip and wiring in a trailer 4 pin connector for easy removal.  This bike was put through the electrical wringer before I bought it and had what seemed like a mile of wire for aftermarket accessories, so I had it connected incorrectly.  I eventually ended up cutting out all the fat that wasn't OEM and starting fresh.  Hasn't happened since, so I'm not going to worry about it and just keep some extra 10A fuses in the bags.  Thanks for the advice!  Not looking forward to doing the splines.

[Mitchapalooza]

According to Sheet 3 of the schematics from the above link, the headlight has its own 10 amp fuse. From the fuse, it is a Black/Red wire to the start switch in the right handlebar switch. When the atrt button IS NOT pushed, 12vdc comes through the switch to a Blue/White wire that goes ti the Dimmer switch in the left handlebar switch. From the Dimmer switch it goes to the headlight bulb via a Blue or White wire depending on the position of the switch.

Following checks are with the ignition switch on and the start button NOT depressed.
Be careful not to short anything to metal.

Do you have 12vdc at the Black/Red wire at the Start switch in the right handlebar switch?
Do you have 12vdc at the Blue/White wire at the Start switch in the right handlebar switch?

Do you have 12vdc at the Blue/White wire at the Dimmer switch in the left handlebar switch?
  If not, there is a bayonet connection before it gets to the Dimmer switch. Check that, should be in  the headlight bucket.

Then check for 12vdc at the Blue or White wire at the Dimmer switch depending on which position the switch is in.

Sound advice, my friend.  I have done more of the beginning to end testing, though have not gone through from each contact point mentioned above to try and isolate the issue as much. 

In regard to the starter switch, it is totally cleaned up and looks like it is working correctly.  I have to assume that this is the case, as the four solid terminals are clearly exposed, at the same height and solders are all good.  The two "floating terminals" that are spring loaded are totally exposed, are both slightly bent upward, etc.  With all this, if the bike is starting every time, I have to assume (all things constant) that the terminals are making contact to activate the headlights.

In regard to the high/low beam switch, I've cleaned it up very well, all solders appear to be good, and I have to assume that it is functioning properly from running continuity tests in both positions and the fact that the High Beam indicator is functioning correctly. 

I'll go through to check each wire to try and isolate the issue, though I'm REALLY hoping that it is just a bulb!

[Mitchapalooza]

On the way back from my ranch, the turn signal/brake light fuse blew.  No big deal. 

Are you saying that the turn signal/brake light fuse has NOT blown again? How are you checking your fuses?

That is correct, it has NOT blown again since then.  I was just trying to give full disclosure with the electrical system over the last few months.  That is a different circuit and fuse, so I think it was an anomaly.  I checked the fuse by visually inspecting it.  How do you check them?

[Mitchapalooza]

I'm an electronics engineer and have read through this thread. First off, very good advice! You guys are top notch. One thing I saw that I really liked was the suggestion to replace the halogen bulb. From experience I can tell you that these are very deceiving when continuity tested, and often show good but are not.
Another thing, if you are measuring 12v on the two terminals that deliver current to the bulb, that is not a "tell all". It is possible to have voltage but no potential, in other words, putting a load on it may drop the voltage to near nothing if there is a partially open connection between the lamp and the power source. I just troubleshot a problem on an X-Ray system that has been ongoing for 6 months. I finally found the issue by flexing individual wires. They can break over time internally just from flexing. 
Good luck and let us know how it goes. These problems can be a nightmare.

"In other words" - I'm in for a potentially frustrating ride!  I certainly hope that you had more room to work on the x-ray machine than the Valk provides!  I guess I can check the terminals with a load on them with the multi-meter, though it may come down to testing continuity in short distances until I find an issue and simply bypassing any problem spot that arises to isolate the problem.  I've got electrical engineers and bench techs that I've hired in the last few months, maybe I should give the local guys a call!  Thanks

[Mitchapalooza]

According to Sheet 3 of the schematics from the above link, the headlight has its own 10 amp fuse. From the fuse, it is a Black/Red wire to the start switch in the right handlebar switch. When the atrt button IS NOT pushed, 12vdc comes through the switch to a Blue/White wire that goes ti the Dimmer switch in the left handlebar switch. From the Dimmer switch it goes to the headlight bulb via a Blue or White wire depending on the position of the switch.

Following checks are with the ignition switch on and the start button NOT depressed.
Be careful not to short anything to metal.

Do you have 12vdc at the Black/Red wire at the Start switch in the right handlebar switch?
Do you have 12vdc at the Blue/White wire at the Start switch in the right handlebar switch?

Do you have 12vdc at the Blue/White wire at the Dimmer switch in the left handlebar switch?
  If not, there is a bayonet connection before it gets to the Dimmer switch. Check that, should be in  the headlight bucket.

Then check for 12vdc at the Blue or White wire at the Dimmer switch depending on which position the switch is in.

This is very good advice.  Tracing the voltage path using the wiring schematic always works.  I'd just add that starting in the middle will diagnose the problem quicker.  I had your problem on my Tourer a few years back and it turned out to be the high/low beam switch.  It just needed to be cleaned up, but I have since added relays that reduce the amperage that go through that switch and the starter switch.

Doubtful and hopeful that that switch is not the issue.  I thought about just replacing it for grins, though I couldn't seem to find it or a part number online anywhere (didn't look too hard).  Do you recall if your high beam indicator was working at the time, despite your switch being bad?  I wonder if there is a good way to bypass the switch without tearing up the OEM wiring to ensure that it is not the problem...

[98valk]

install a new bulb if u haven't already. sometimes the filament is broken and vibration makes it work on and off.

I will go ahead and pick one up today and try that just to eliminate that potential failure.  Question though, if I decide to go with an LED, would I need to install a resistor with it?  My 2015 Ram is much smarter and doesn't like subtle changes to the electrical system, the Valk, however is much more simplistic so I don't know.  I'm sure there are multiple threads on this, though I'm curious if you guys have a bulb type preference...

LED Headlight "Bulb" replacement Modules
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=948701

some have done it on our site, just search.

[BobB]

Do you recall if your high beam indicator was working at the time, despite your switch being bad?  I wonder if there is a good way to bypass the switch without tearing up the OEM wiring to ensure that it is not the problem...

I do not recall the condition of the high beam indicator, but looking at the schematic, I'd say that probably it was not working.

I hope you have access to the colored wiring schematic that is in the back of the Clymer Service Manual.  The small black rectangles in the schematic are connectors.  For the portion of the wiring you are concerned with, ALL those connectors are in the headlight bucket.  If you sort out all the wires in there and see where they are coming from and going, you can do all your analysis within the bucket.  It helps  to disconnect connectors, apply a little dielectric grease and reconnect them.  They could be the problem.

I hope this helps...

[Mitchapalooza]

RESOLVED:

Hey Gents, thanks again so much for your input and suggestions.  I'm so glad to be part of this forum with smart folks like yourself.  So, I isolated the issue and it is fixed now.  What was it, you ask???

1.  The previous owner.  2.  Wigwam

I changed the bulb - nothing.
I tested all power lead wiring in the chain that was suggested and followed the diagram.  Everything was good.
Once I got into the wiring in the bucket, that was where the mysteries started.  I tested the terminals on the headlight (engine off, key on, kill switch on), and there was no power there, though the wiring was correctly colored and set up.  I pulled all the guts out of the bucket and as opposed to the normal insulated OEM wiring, I found that there were some other (non OEM wrapped) wires in a cluster that were coming in wrapped in electrical tape.  After tracing those back, I found  one of the wires went to a hidden toggle switch along the inside of the plastic trim where the tank meets the triple tree - weird.  The rest, I followed back to a cursed Wigwam.  Not one for a bike either, it looks like for automotive application.  I cut out the switch (which was broken and was a hot 12v wire as opposed to a ground cut!) then wiggled the wigwam out of there and just cut the wires where it went under the tank at both ends.  I'll pull the rest out when I take the tank off next.  Found the original wiring and tied the harness in to that.  Viola.  Let there be light.  SOB, that is the second time the previous owner's electrical brilliance has caused me much trouble.  I remember him saying something about the "Wigwam" when I bought it, though he said that it didn't work well and that it was bypassed.  Nope, it wasn't. 

Thanks again. 

[BobB]

Glad you got it resolved.  What the H... Is a Wigwam?

[Bighead]

yeah what he said?

[Bone]

Wigwam is made by twisting several wires together and wraping electrical tape around the twisted ends.

Really have been waiting for someone to ask I have no idea.

[gordonv]

As in a Teepee?

I was thinking a wigwag, a head light modulator.