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Author Topic: Coolant Level  (Read 2839 times)
dconstruct55
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Posts: 126

Phoenix AZ.


« on: January 31, 2015, 11:20:23 AM »

Bought a '99 Valk Standard about 30 days ago and trying to get comfortable with the new ride. So far I really like the handle and feel. Here is my question:
I took off the radiator cover today and saw no fluid, the bike was on its kickstand, but I thought that I should still have seen something in there. My 2006 Vulcan 2000 also has a radiator, but it has a clear tube you can check to verify coolant level. So, do I need to add coolant so that I can see the level like you would in a car radiator, or is there some other place to verify coolant level?
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dconstruct55
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Posts: 126

Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2015, 11:40:05 AM »

Ok,
Well that is a question I wish I had not posted. I got off my duff, pulled out the manual and it led me to the coolant tank beside the battery and behind the plastic side panel. Enough said.....
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longrider
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Posts: 557


Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2015, 11:55:46 AM »

You were right in your first post.  When you remove the rad cap there should be fluid,  level with the top of the tank.  It needs to be topped off cold.  The overflow tank should also be about half full at the mark.  Keep an eye on the levels.  You should check all of the hose clamps and tighten.  The one to the thermostat housing is usually the culprit. 
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dconstruct55
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Posts: 126

Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2015, 02:05:56 PM »

Thank you LR,
I will top that off, just remove the rad cap and fill then?
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Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2015, 03:36:04 PM »

The radiator cap should have a set screw, should fill with 50/50 distilled water and ethylene glycol antifreeze. The reserve tank is checked with the engine running and at operating temperature. I use the Honda coolant, comes ready to pour in.  Firefighter
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
dconstruct55
Member
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Posts: 126

Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2015, 03:47:04 PM »

Thanks FF,
I di not detect a set screw, the rad cap is after market chrome job.
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PhredValk
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Posts: 1531


Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2015, 02:13:52 AM »

Don't touch the rad cap unless you're flushing the system. Keep putting fluid in the overflow tank until it stays above the 'Cold' line for a few times.
Fred.
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VRCCDS0237
bentwrench
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Posts: 760

Philadelphia,Pa.


« Reply #7 on: February 01, 2015, 06:03:59 AM »

And don't use regular green antifreeze,hondas cars and bikes call for slicate ,borate free anti freze.I buy mine from the car dealer,with my dicount it's 1/3 the cost at the cycle shops.
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salty1
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Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2015, 06:47:23 AM »

Sounds like you got all the input you need, good advise.  Roll Eyes  Welcome to the asylum, your going to love "her"!  cooldude
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

dconstruct55
Member
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Posts: 126

Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2015, 07:59:58 AM »

Thank you everyone!
All of the input is very much appreciated.
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quexpress
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Posts: 519


Montreal, Québec, Canada


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« Reply #10 on: February 01, 2015, 09:24:31 AM »

Thanks FF,
I di not detect a set screw, the rad cap is after market chrome job.
The set screw is not required.
Note: I threw mine away 12 ears ago.  cooldude
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